re: Reloading

Don't get me wrong, I love my 550B and hope I do not ever have to do without it but I also will never be without a single stage. One of mine stays on the bench with a Lee universal De-Capper in it but i also use it for case forming and other functions.

So not only does the single stage get you started at a reasonable price but will be of use down the road.

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Fair enough - jumped in with the new RCBS rebel plus kit already though. Start with that and if its too tedious I can step it up.

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RCBS makes good stuff. You'll be happy with it...for now.

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The problem right now, as others have noted is I cant find rifle primers anywhere. Found the dies I need along w the brass and bullets. No primers to be found.

Any suggestions?

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In current times, your best bet is probably local shops. Make it a habit of stopping in once a week or so to see what they have. If you know them well, they might let you know when they have stock coming in.

When this all settles down, stock up so you can let everyone else compete for primers and powder.

Lots of good advice so far. Obviously there will be a difference of opinions on some parts, but it'll be up to you to decide what works best for you. After handloading nearly 40 years, here are some suggestions:

Equipment needed to get started.
-*A press of some sort. I started w/ a Lee classic turret press and it's still my only press. It's a single stage, but the rotating turret can make faster than a single stage if needs to load large volumes. If you use the Lee turret press, I'd buy extra loading plates and red round storage cases.
-Dies: I've got dies from everyone except Lyman and Dillon. Redding dies are the nicest and most expensive. OTOH, I’ve developed very accurate loads w/ Lee dies (least expensive). You need a full length sizing die and bullet seating die for each caliber. I've never used a crimping die except on heavy 44 magnum loads. You might want to use neck sizing dies later, but not now. In addition, I wouldn't suggest starting out w/ dies that use different neck bushings or micrometer seating dies.
-*Lubricants, I prefer Imperial dry neck lube and Imperial case sizing wax
-I think Sierra is probably the single best loading manual. The Sierra loading app is really good, as well. Nosler, Hornady and Hodgdon are good manuals.
-Extra depriming pins. You'll need them some day at the most inopportune time. Don’t ask me how I know. Actually, I like to deprime separate step using a Lee decapping and depriming die.
-*Loading trays: If you know someone who works at a Dr's office or hospital lab, the styrofoam trays used to pack blood drawing tubes make great (and free) loading blocks.
-*Priming tools, my first one was a Lee hand priming tool I used it exclusively for 35 years until it broke. I didn't like the newer version but I do like the Lee Auto Bench Priming Too that I'm now using. Lee products are frequently said to be cheap, but I use a lot of their stuff. When my hand priming tool broke, I emailed them asking for a replacement part. Of course, there were no parts since the product had been discontinued for many years. Nevertheless, they let me buy the Auto Bench Priming Tool at 1/2 price.
-*Shell holders: You'll need them for the priming tool and your press. Might as well go ahead and buy both complete packs instead of buying them individually.
Something to weigh the charges. I'm still using my original RCBS scale, but the new electronic ones are really nice I've been told.
-*Brass chamfering and deburring tool.
-Case trimmer. Rotary lathe type trimmers work well, but I actually prefer the inexpensive Lee Case Length Gauge and Cutter. You’ll need a Case length gauge for each different cartridge. If you handload for a 20 caliber cartridge, you’ll need a similar tool made by Lyman.
-Powder trickler.
-Bullet puller
-Stuck case remover.
-Brass. If you don’t mind spending extra money for the best quality brass, look for Lapua and Peterson. Starline, Norma, Nosler and Hornady are also pretty good.
-Primers
-Bullets
-Powder. Once you find a powder you like and you expect to use frequently, I'd suggest buying a 5# or 8# can instead of 1#.

Optional equipment you may want later:
-A primer pocket uniformer can be used to clean the primer pocket as well as uniform it.
-Lee depriming and decapping die.
-Powder measure.
-Lee powder measure kit. The kit consists of 15 small scoops of differing volume.

*Tools frequently included in handloading kits.

Brownell's, Midsouth Shooters Supply and Natchez Shooters Supply are also a good sources for handloading tools, but they don't have frequent shipping deals like Midway does.

Anyone have experience with large rifle magnum primers on 45-70 government? Down range with a Marlin 1895 lever. Cannot find large rifle primers anywhere.

Adjust powder load? A lot of conflicting information out there. Any advice is appreciated.

Definitely need to adjust your load. The 45-70 is a low pressure load. Modern guns will most likely handle any increase in pressure from using a mag primer but I’d probably drop you starting load by a grain and test.

Look for a flatten primer as a pressure sign.

If a normal load takes 45 grains of powder with a regular large rifle primer, you should use large magnum primers with 44 grains of powder.

A tell-tell sign of pressure is building in a cartridge is looking at the primer after you fire it. If it’s flattened, you have pressure building.

A flat primer is not dangerous but you need to realize that you need to be careful with higher grains of powder.

A blown primer is a danger zone. Next step after blown primers is a blown up rifle.

Yes, my 45 grains was just an example.

I don’t know the load data for a .45-70 with current powders.

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Anyone have experience with large rifle magnum primers on 45-70 government?

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Man, I wish I lived close to you as I've got about 2000 Winchester large rifle primers; I'd be happy to sell some to you. If you're ever in the Tyler, TX or Jefferson, TX area, let me know.