Started By
Message

Mercury outboard repair help

Posted on 7/25/15 at 3:45 pm
Posted by cberni1
Metry
Member since Jun 2012
528 posts
Posted on 7/25/15 at 3:45 pm
Does anyone have advice on a good Mercury outboard repair shop in the Slidell area? My 1988 175 mercury will run hard for about five minutes then sputter like it's not getting fuel. It will Idle and put around just fine. The ball is hard and I can't figure out If it's fuel or electrical.
Posted by Spankum
Miss-sippi
Member since Jan 2007
56046 posts
Posted on 7/25/15 at 4:11 pm to
Have you changed furl filter?
Posted by cberni1
Metry
Member since Jun 2012
528 posts
Posted on 7/25/15 at 4:16 pm to
Not this trip but the previous trip, yes.
Posted by cberni1
Metry
Member since Jun 2012
528 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 6:15 am to
Bump
Posted by Tbooux
Member since Oct 2011
1680 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 7:51 am to
Sounds like your High Flow jet is clogged. Have you tried a sea foam treatment before bringing to the shop. That stuff works magic on older engines!

Had opposite problem with my yamaha in it wouldn't idle, after seafoam treatment thought I had a new motor!
Posted by cberni1
Metry
Member since Jun 2012
528 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 8:17 am to
I have not tried sea foam. The motor was brought to a shop once before and the CDI boxes were changed but that still doesn't seem to be fixing it. That's why I still have a feeling it something deeper than fuel and the reason its not going back to that shop. I was hoping there was a knowledgeable Mercury repair shop who can diagnose this properly.
Posted by DeepSouthSportsman
frick Bama
Member since Jul 2012
4635 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 8:38 am to
Buy Yamaha


Problem solved
Posted by DeoreDX
Member since Oct 2010
4055 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 8:49 am to
Disassemble carburetor.

Place in giant tube of Pine Sol. Wait a couple of days.

Rinse with hot water. Reassemble. Carb will be like new.
Posted by cberni1
Metry
Member since Jun 2012
528 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 3:24 pm to
quote:

uy Yamaha
Next step, I promise!
Posted by 007mag
Death Valley, Sec. 408
Member since Dec 2011
3873 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 3:31 pm to
Posted by fishfighter
RIP
Member since Apr 2008
40026 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 7:17 pm to
Sounds like a carb problem or it's timing advancing is way off. Don't keep trying to run it in that condition. You can and will burn a piston. There is a guy I use in breaux bridge, right off I10. Freddy Breaux. He is outstanding and way cheaper then shops. He does all his work at his house. He has all the contracts for all the oil companys that run boats in the basin.

It's hard to find someone that can work on older outboards. All these shops do now is plug in to see code problems and then start throwing parts at the motor till they find the right part.
Posted by Dr. Morgus
Member since Dec 2001
Member since Jul 2013
3740 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 8:50 pm to
Boat City or the Big Wheel Boats in Hammond
Posted by davidwademarine
Baton Rouge, LA
Member since Sep 2014
202 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 8:53 pm to
The stator, trigger, switch boxes, ignition coils, and spark plugs are the only parts to an old school ignition system. There are several threads on thehulltruth.com and YouTube videos that walk you through the diagnostics of these systems. If you have a decent multimeter and are somewhat mechanically inclined, then this should be something you can handle yourself.

If not, Slidell Marine is who we would recommend in your area for Mercury service.
Posted by White Bear
Yonnygo
Member since Jul 2014
13906 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 9:00 pm to
You running it on muffs or under actual loaded? Is the tank properly vented?
Posted by HeadBusta4LSU
Baton Rouge
Member since Aug 2007
11312 posts
Posted on 7/27/15 at 9:10 pm to
Have you tried changing your fuel bulb, does it act like its losing prime?
Posted by cberni1
Metry
Member since Jun 2012
528 posts
Posted on 7/28/15 at 9:59 am to
quote:

Freddy Breaux.
Thanks, I will look into this.

quote:

It's hard to find someone that can work on older outboards
My largest aggravation to this point. Too much electronics out there today but the best part of a carb motor is its simplicity.
Posted by cberni1
Metry
Member since Jun 2012
528 posts
Posted on 7/28/15 at 10:06 am to
quote:

The stator, trigger, switch boxes, ignition coils, and spark plugs are the only parts to an old school ignition system. There are several threads on thehulltruth.com and YouTube videos that walk you through the diagnostics of these systems. If you have a decent multimeter and are somewhat mechanically inclined, then this should be something you can handle yourself.
My dad is helping me with this and has been a automotive mechanic for most of his life so we are investigating things like the stator, coils, and boxes. We changed the plugs and CDI boxes already so trying to rule that out, but he thinks its still electrical.

I think its also worth noting that the inside of fuel line before and after the fuel filter by the motor was severely corroded, so we changed that but I'm wondering if the fuel line from the tank to the nipple at the back of the boat coming out the hull is also bad.

I spoke with a friend who is very savvy with outboards and he tells me that most of the outboard mechanics he knows make most of their money off changing collapsed/corroded fuel lines from someone running ethanol based fuel (we never have but someone before us could have) and vent tubes being clogged with mud divers or other bee nest.

So i'm going to run the boat again on an external tank and check the easiest issues first. The motor just iddles too well and runs great at lower RPM's which is the confusing thing.
Posted by cberni1
Metry
Member since Jun 2012
528 posts
Posted on 7/28/15 at 10:08 am to
quote:

You running it on muffs or under actual loaded? Is the tank properly vented?
This issue only occurs wide open under load in the water. Can't replicate on the muffs. The tank is properly vented but i haven't checked for blockage from bee hive or something else.
Posted by cberni1
Metry
Member since Jun 2012
528 posts
Posted on 7/28/15 at 10:11 am to
quote:

Have you tried changing your fuel bulb, does it act like its losing prime?
Bulb has been changed. When we ran it wide open and it would begin sputtering, i felt the bulb and started pumping it to see if it wasn't getting enough fuel. When I pumped, it would come back then sputter again. A friend thinks this is prime evidence of a possible corroded or collapsing fuel line from the tank which is under the floor that I haven't been able to check yet.
Posted by Hangover Haven
Metry
Member since Oct 2013
26611 posts
Posted on 7/28/15 at 1:50 pm to
Not to be a buzz kill, and I know motors aren't cheap.. But that motor is almost 30 years old... Ever think about replacing it before putting tons of money into it...

Got a buddy who's constantly putting his '82 Merc 50 in the shop.... We keep telling him to replace it..
This post was edited on 7/28/15 at 2:01 pm
first pageprev pagePage 1 of 2Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookTwitterInstagram