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re: Jeep Owners what'cha got
Posted on 6/25/12 at 2:42 pm to redstick13
Posted on 6/25/12 at 2:42 pm to redstick13
I got a 96 Cherokee Sport 4.0L. I love that damn thing.
Gotta put a thermostat and water pump in it this week so.....
Gotta put a thermostat and water pump in it this week so.....
quote:
Just
Empty
Every
0
Posted on 6/25/12 at 2:43 pm to WhiskeyTangoFoxtrot
quote:ouch you got the bad year.
I have a real Jeep...'83 CJ5.
Posted on 6/25/12 at 2:45 pm to redstick13
5100 I believe. shock upgrade with the Terraflex kit
Posted on 6/25/12 at 2:48 pm to Crawdaddy
Those are good shocks. You will be pleased with them. Those are also adjustable. May take you a few days to get them set to your liking.
ETA - Sorry it isn't the 5100's that are adjustable.
ETA - Sorry it isn't the 5100's that are adjustable.
This post was edited on 6/25/12 at 2:50 pm
Posted on 6/25/12 at 2:51 pm to Crawdaddy
You plan to install that kit yourself? They are easy to do.
Posted on 6/25/12 at 2:57 pm to redstick13
would like to do it myself. Never done one so I hope a buddy at work can help. Looks easy but looks and actually getting in there and finding snags are two different things.
Posted on 6/25/12 at 3:06 pm to Crawdaddy
Since you got the Terraflex kit you shouldn't need to worry with axle angles and track bar alignments.
What all does the kit include? I can tell you how it will be to put in.
What all does the kit include? I can tell you how it will be to put in.
Posted on 6/25/12 at 3:11 pm to redstick13
terraflex shows a video on how. Looks easy but again they have a high lift, high jack stands, air tools.
Posted on 6/25/12 at 3:27 pm to Crawdaddy
Well I can tell you how I go about pulling out my springs and disconnecting my control arms when I was tweaking my lift.
Tools I use are an impact wrench, floor jack, SUV jack stands, metric socket set and metric ratchet wrench set, large crescent, hammer.
First disconnect your sway bars. I then unbolt my my track bar and disconnect the lower control arms from the axle. I find it easier to pull apart this way. Just watch when you jack the vehicle up under the axles because your axles will tilt with the lower control arms disconnected. Loosen your lug nuts (if you don't have an impact wrench). Jack the Jeep up with the floor jack under the axle and put your SUV jack stands under the frame as high up as you can get it. Rest the frame on the jack stands and pull your wheels off. Disconnect your shocks. You should be able to lower the floorjack all the way down and pull your springs out. Slap the new springs in (make sure they are lined up correctly in the coil bucket) and start putting on the new control arms. You will likely need to move the floor jack and lift one side of the axle or the other to bolt the control arms back up. I then hook my shocks back up then go back on with the tires. I leave the track bar for last. On the front axle it is easy. Bolt it up on the driver's side first then have someone get in and turn the steering until the frame lines up over the axles and the other side slips in. The rear may require a bit more manhandling to get it in.
Tools I use are an impact wrench, floor jack, SUV jack stands, metric socket set and metric ratchet wrench set, large crescent, hammer.
First disconnect your sway bars. I then unbolt my my track bar and disconnect the lower control arms from the axle. I find it easier to pull apart this way. Just watch when you jack the vehicle up under the axles because your axles will tilt with the lower control arms disconnected. Loosen your lug nuts (if you don't have an impact wrench). Jack the Jeep up with the floor jack under the axle and put your SUV jack stands under the frame as high up as you can get it. Rest the frame on the jack stands and pull your wheels off. Disconnect your shocks. You should be able to lower the floorjack all the way down and pull your springs out. Slap the new springs in (make sure they are lined up correctly in the coil bucket) and start putting on the new control arms. You will likely need to move the floor jack and lift one side of the axle or the other to bolt the control arms back up. I then hook my shocks back up then go back on with the tires. I leave the track bar for last. On the front axle it is easy. Bolt it up on the driver's side first then have someone get in and turn the steering until the frame lines up over the axles and the other side slips in. The rear may require a bit more manhandling to get it in.
Posted on 6/25/12 at 3:29 pm to Crawdaddy
quote:
Looks easy but looks and actually getting in there and finding snags are two different things.
It's easy, I responded to your intro post on JKowners
Posted on 6/25/12 at 3:32 pm to redstick13
2.5" lift on the JK, you dont need to remove any control arms. Just the track bar, sway bar, and shocks. If you are having a little difficulty squeezing them in, just put the jack under the other side and good to go
Craw, I highly recomend a new track bar. Also, look for used stuff on the forums, there are a lot of great deals
Craw, I highly recomend a new track bar. Also, look for used stuff on the forums, there are a lot of great deals
Posted on 6/25/12 at 3:36 pm to NYCAuburn
New trac bar is on the list
Posted on 6/25/12 at 3:41 pm to Crawdaddy
quote:
Crawdaddy
If you have any detailed question on lifting your JK or which route to go, PM me on the other forum if I dont respond here.
There is a lot of bad info out there and most of it comes from the lift manufacturers. They want you to buy more stuff
Posted on 6/25/12 at 3:43 pm to NYCAuburn
quote:
I responded to your intro post on JKowners
In True TD style
Posted on 6/25/12 at 3:44 pm to NYCAuburn
Gotcha. Wasn't sure how much his lift was. So there you go. It just got easier. Reconnecting the control arms is by far the worst part. Especially upper arms.
Posted on 6/25/12 at 3:50 pm to redstick13
quote:
So there you go. It just got easier. Reconnecting the control arms is by far the worst part.
yup, other than that the hardest part is bolting the top nut on the front shock, it's a pain in da arse
ETA: since yours is an 07' Spray all bolts you will be removing with PB blaster or something like it, at least a week or more in advance.
Not sure if you caught what I said earlier. Make sure you check your oil every 1k for the first 6mo-1yr. There are a bunch of shitty engines made in that period that consume a qt or more every 1k.
This post was edited on 6/25/12 at 3:55 pm
Posted on 6/25/12 at 4:02 pm to NYCAuburn
Don't forget to pile on the anti cease in huge coats. You'll be happy you did because this most definitely won't be the last time you take it apart.
Posted on 6/25/12 at 5:58 pm to redstick13
good info thanks guys
Posted on 6/25/12 at 7:03 pm to Crawdaddy
Now I have the damned Jeep itch. I love off roading, but my truck has too many damned pretty body panels. The truck is for sale. I am either getting a late YJ with some build or a early TJ mostly stock with the funds I will have. I am thinking a stock TJ I can build myself.. Also thinking about getting a beater truck just in case. I intend to make the jeep my DD and light off road vehicle. Are these prone to major failures at what mileage? I know my Chevy is good for 200-300K miles. I don't do crazy off roading or rock crawling. I just want to get to my water holes and sand bars.
Posted on 6/25/12 at 7:56 pm to King
The 4.0l engine is a great motor. The 4 banger is a decent motor too just lacking in hp and torque.
You can find built TJs with 10-15 grand invested in aftermarket parts for the same price as some stock ones. You just have to shop. Also if buying one already built inspect it really well. I have had an cj, xj, tj, and yj
You can find built TJs with 10-15 grand invested in aftermarket parts for the same price as some stock ones. You just have to shop. Also if buying one already built inspect it really well. I have had an cj, xj, tj, and yj
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