- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Any experience with bridge building at a camp?
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:14 am
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:14 am
We've got a very deep creek that cuts through the middle of the property. We're researching simple bridge designs to span the gap (maybe 20 ft?). We want something that can handle the 4 wheelers.
Any of y'all have an ideas/experience with such a project?
Any of y'all have an ideas/experience with such a project?
12
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:18 am to GEAUXT
Drop a culvert and surround it with dirt?
Edit: Do you have a picture of the creek? A culvert would be easiest but 20ft may be a bit far. Some of these other guys have probably done different but we did a culvert where we had a creek washing out the road.
Edit: Do you have a picture of the creek? A culvert would be easiest but 20ft may be a bit far. Some of these other guys have probably done different but we did a culvert where we had a creek washing out the road.
This post was edited on 1/20/16 at 10:21 am
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:20 am to GEAUXT
old house trailer frames are usually pretty easy to come by.
if you can't find one of those. use three telephone poles and top with the treated wood of your choice.
I'd also recommend setting metal poles in the ground set in concrete to use as "guides" for the bridge to float up in case the water gets that high. Also, putting the bridge in a "upstream" to "downstream" angle will help with pressure against it when the water gets too high.
I'd also highly recommend bolting 4x4's to the edges to keep anyone from slipping off.
if you can't find one of those. use three telephone poles and top with the treated wood of your choice.
I'd also recommend setting metal poles in the ground set in concrete to use as "guides" for the bridge to float up in case the water gets that high. Also, putting the bridge in a "upstream" to "downstream" angle will help with pressure against it when the water gets too high.
I'd also highly recommend bolting 4x4's to the edges to keep anyone from slipping off.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:20 am to GEAUXT
Buy on old cotton trailer. They're cheap. Whack the sides off and set it in place with a front end loader or a hoe.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:20 am to GEAUXT
You can get 20ft used timber mats for like $500-3500
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:23 am to GEAUXT
We have built bridges and they wear out. The best design (and most sturdy) we have utilized to date on our land is to purchase an old flat bed trailer (56 ft, I believe) and set it. It requires a little dirt work and anchoring, but works well. I think we bought the trailer for less than $4K. Had the wheel structure cut off...put in place with tractor/loader.
We drive 100 HP tractors and an D5 dozer across it all the time...no worries at all.
We drive 100 HP tractors and an D5 dozer across it all the time...no worries at all.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:23 am to fisherbm1112
the creek is way too deep for a culvert, probably 15 ft down from each bank
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:25 am to DeltaDoc
i really like the trailer ideas. that may work well
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:27 am to GEAUXT
A couple of points here:
1) what you put there depends more on the amount of water that comes through than anything else. If it's low flow, small watershed, then a large culvert might work.
2) if you really need a bridge, then most people vastly under estimate the length of the span. If you're saying 20 feet, chances are it's more like 30. And then you need 10 feet on either side to secure it.
3) for 50-70 feet, old rail cars are good. Usually can be found for about $3500-5000.
4) if all you are crossing with it is 4-wheelers (no pickups or tractors) then the utility pole idea is very reasonable and cost effective. Be sure to deck it with treated wood.
5) also depends on if this is owned or leased land. If you own the place, or expect to be there for 20 years or more, then you will enjoy something nice. Bite the bullet and spend the money. It will be a good investment. If this is a lease. Then, put a culvert in. If it blows out in a big rain, just retrieve it and put it back. Leases are temporary.
1) what you put there depends more on the amount of water that comes through than anything else. If it's low flow, small watershed, then a large culvert might work.
2) if you really need a bridge, then most people vastly under estimate the length of the span. If you're saying 20 feet, chances are it's more like 30. And then you need 10 feet on either side to secure it.
3) for 50-70 feet, old rail cars are good. Usually can be found for about $3500-5000.
4) if all you are crossing with it is 4-wheelers (no pickups or tractors) then the utility pole idea is very reasonable and cost effective. Be sure to deck it with treated wood.
5) also depends on if this is owned or leased land. If you own the place, or expect to be there for 20 years or more, then you will enjoy something nice. Bite the bullet and spend the money. It will be a good investment. If this is a lease. Then, put a culvert in. If it blows out in a big rain, just retrieve it and put it back. Leases are temporary.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:28 am to GEAUXT
quote:
the creek is way too deep for a culvert, probably 15 ft down from each bank
Yea then the trailer ideas are more for you.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:38 am to GEAUXT
quote:
i really like the trailer ideas. that may work well
Ours has been great. It is an 18 wheeler flat bed, so it is engineered for heavy loads. You anchor it with steel rods and gravel.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 10:42 am to GEAUXT
I was going to suggest railroad ties, but 20' is a bit long for that
Posted on 1/20/16 at 11:47 am to GEAUXT
go to either henderson north of lafayette or the timber home guy in holden, and buy a FEMA trailer. demo the trailer down to the frame
there are 8x20 and should be plenty solid
there are 8x20 and should be plenty solid
Posted on 1/20/16 at 12:02 pm to GEAUXT
I did some survey work on a property up near Monroe once and the guys that hunted there had made a flatbed cable-car that spanned about 150' over a 25-30' deep ravine.
Massive concrete blocks anchored each end. The cable car looked to be about 5'x10'. The cables themselves were 1" braided steel and it used a winch to move back and forth.
It looked to be pretty old and definitely an insane project.
So there is always that idea.
Massive concrete blocks anchored each end. The cable car looked to be about 5'x10'. The cables themselves were 1" braided steel and it used a winch to move back and forth.
It looked to be pretty old and definitely an insane project.
So there is always that idea.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 12:41 pm to cgrand
quote:That's about all that's left of them anyway.
timber home guy in holden, and buy a FEMA trailer. demo the trailer down to the frame
A damn shame they let those sit out there and rot like that
Posted on 1/20/16 at 12:44 pm to GEAUXT
quote:
the land is owned
How much water is in the creek on a regular basis? If it isn't much, why not just cut the banks down instead of building a bridge? would save a ton of time and money.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 12:51 pm to Hammertime
quote:
You can get 20ft used timber mats for like $500-3500
Do not go this rout unless they are treated which I don't think they are, at least ours weren't. Busted our butts to build a bridge with these, only to have the bridge rot out in 2 seasons.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 12:52 pm to GEAUXT
quote:
Any of y'all have an ideas/experience with such a project?
we have the same situation at our camp. we got two 6" steel I beams and tac welded metal grating on top of it. its been solid for about 5 years now.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 12:53 pm to GEAUXT
If you can get away with it, a big culvert or tank car covered with dirt is s more economical choice than a bridge. FYI...here is a pic of a otetyy steep crossing that I had put in last week. 60" culvert, dirt from site, logging mat on top. Total cost ~$5k. 
Page 1 of 2
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News