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4 wheeler repair northshore

Posted on 7/9/22 at 1:10 pm
Posted by Pepperidge
Slidell
Member since Apr 2011
4314 posts
Posted on 7/9/22 at 1:10 pm
(sorry...I used search but no luck)

Preferably Slidell...but will consider any reasonable places between picayune,Miss and possibly as far as Hammond


Having a brake issue on my grizzly (personal bike) I replaced all pads, but think booster may be bad now(spongy brake pull)

also have a 400 foreman (guest bike)that needs brakes, carb, battery and possibly some other things done.

lastly... have a very old (87) 125 fourtrax (Kids/guest bike)that I think the CDI is bad(no spark)replaced with chinese one and still no spark...OEM isn't available anymore(can get used...but don't want same issue) This bike never let me down until after this past season once I got it home.

Got to get all this sorted out before September.

Thanks

Pepp
Posted by unclejhim
Folsom, La.
Member since Nov 2011
3703 posts
Posted on 7/9/22 at 1:19 pm to
Jason motorcycle shop in Folsom is where I take my Rhino. That's a bit of a ride from Slidell.
Posted by Pepperidge
Slidell
Member since Apr 2011
4314 posts
Posted on 7/9/22 at 1:40 pm to
that distance is acceptable...

fair prices?

decent time to get it back to you?

Someone from our club also said there was a private atv shop on 59 heading into abita...any reviews on them?

Posted by keakar
Member since Jan 2017
30080 posts
Posted on 7/9/22 at 1:50 pm to
quote:

Having a brake issue on my grizzly (personal bike) I replaced all pads, but think booster may be bad now(spongy brake pull)


thats because you dont know how to bleed brakes on an atv/motorcycle

it doesnt work like on your car.

make sure reservoir is full, then pull in brake lever and tie it off that way, then leave it overnight, it takes a good 12+ hours for the tiny air bubbles to float up and escape into reservoir, that can only happen while its pulled in like pressing on the brakes, so thats why it doesnt bleed normally like with cars, by next morning you will see all air has been purged and brakes will work like new again

the way bike master cylinder work doesnt allow you to get all the air out by pumping it and cracking the bleed screw, it just doesnt get all the air out.

do it like i said, then tell us how its now fixed, and then i will send you a bill in the mail for fixing your brakes
This post was edited on 7/9/22 at 2:19 pm
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
14304 posts
Posted on 7/9/22 at 2:00 pm to
Gotta bleed the shite out of them
Posted by Pepperidge
Slidell
Member since Apr 2011
4314 posts
Posted on 7/9/22 at 2:58 pm to
note:
I started with keakars method first

then tried traditional below

they were well bled...so much so, that nice clean brake fluid was coming at at all bleeding points and brake lever or foot pedal still wont get firm...just wasting brake fluid at this point

something else is going on

I just don't have the time or will power to chase down everything on all 3 and deal with everyday things at the same time...I'm getting to old for this crap



I'd rather just pay someone else to deal with it
This post was edited on 7/9/22 at 3:05 pm
Posted by keakar
Member since Jan 2017
30080 posts
Posted on 7/9/22 at 3:05 pm to
if my method didnt work then its your master cylinder needs new seals inside, when the seals go they wont build pressure.

i been working on bikes for over 40 years and i wouldnt want to try installing a rebuild kit on a master cylinder, they are usually ate up inside with corrosion so i just buy a new one for it or if its really expensive, a working used one from somebody selling used parts

i agree the other bikes need help, what you describe sounds like they need a lot of this that and the other and its time consuming to do all that so if you got the money let the shop do it.

i would still suggest you hold off on the brake issue bike and try replacing the master cylinder first, then bring it to the shop if that doesnt solve the issue
This post was edited on 7/9/22 at 3:26 pm
Posted by Pepperidge
Slidell
Member since Apr 2011
4314 posts
Posted on 7/9/22 at 4:18 pm to
I'm looking at master cylinders now...and will more than likely tackle that myself, since it's right there up top... only other problem the grizzly has is the warn winch doesn't work...even jumping the solenoid(if that even helps)


Edit: quick question...does the lower cylinder ever need replacing?

This post was edited on 7/9/22 at 4:25 pm
Posted by keakar
Member since Jan 2017
30080 posts
Posted on 7/9/22 at 4:50 pm to
quote:

Edit: quick question...does the lower cylinder ever need replacing?


you mean the rear brake master cylinder? only if it has issues. the front and rear brakes are both completely separate isolated systems

if you mean the calipers, not really, if they have issues its easy because the pistons in them stick when they have issues, so they either dont press (no brakes) with a hard to pull brake lever, or they dont release after braking (locking up the brakes) so you know right away when those have issues.

another common brake issue is the lines get old and swell up closed on the inside so they act as a check valve and can either barely apply brakes or lock them up after braking hard and by opening the bleed screw it frees the caliper to release and let you know its the line thats bad
This post was edited on 7/9/22 at 4:57 pm
Posted by thejudge
Westlake, LA
Member since Sep 2009
14063 posts
Posted on 7/9/22 at 7:16 pm to
quote:

have a very old (87) 125 fourtrax (Kids/guest bike)that I think the CDI is bad(no spark)replaced with chinese one and still no spark...OEM isn't available anymore(can get used...but don't want same issue) This bike never let me down until after this past season once I got it home.


Check kill switch continuity...

Also if that bike needs to start in neutral to crank that neutral switch in the crank case can go bad.

It has to ground out to work. Find that wiring diagram and jump the wire to ground on the bike (light will come on)

If that allows spark instead of splitting the crank case I've put in several bikes a pushbutton that you can push in and ground the circuit allowing the light to come on and the coil fire to the bike.
Posted by KentuckyArcher
Slidell
Member since Aug 2012
160 posts
Posted on 7/9/22 at 10:15 pm to
BLAIRS’s In Carriere Ms
Posted by 4LSU2
Member since Dec 2009
37343 posts
Posted on 7/10/22 at 6:21 pm to
Call Brian:

(985) 768-7153

He is off Gause and works on ATVs out of his house. Awesome guy, excellent service. He’s worked on several of mine, and even drove to Madisonville to pick one up a couple of years ago when it would’t crank to load.

If he doesn’t answer, leave a VM and then send a text. He answers/ responds when he is not working on a bike.
This post was edited on 7/10/22 at 6:23 pm
Posted by Pepperidge
Slidell
Member since Apr 2011
4314 posts
Posted on 7/11/22 at 4:43 am to
Will do...Appreciate it
Posted by Pepperidge
Slidell
Member since Apr 2011
4314 posts
Posted on 7/11/22 at 4:45 am to
@judge

Neutral light comes on already if that is what you are referring to
This post was edited on 7/11/22 at 6:48 am
Posted by rattlebucket
SELA
Member since Feb 2009
11456 posts
Posted on 7/11/22 at 8:33 am to
quote:

Jason motorcycle shop in Folsom


Call them before you bring your bikes in. They are usually full
Posted by Chad504boy
4 posts
Member since Feb 2005
166375 posts
Posted on 7/11/22 at 8:35 am to
quote:


Call them before you bring your bikes in. They are usually full



i tried a year or two ago and they never even answered the phone.

i found a chris dude on northshore. Precision ATV, maybe does some metal fab work too or somethin.
Posted by rattlebucket
SELA
Member since Feb 2009
11456 posts
Posted on 7/11/22 at 10:40 am to
They are good dudes. Jason has had some health issues. They are just limited for space
Posted by thejudge
Westlake, LA
Member since Sep 2009
14063 posts
Posted on 7/11/22 at 12:44 pm to
It was.

I've runinto that being a not start several times.
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