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Started By
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2012 Honda rancher problem
Posted on 4/23/15 at 4:21 pm
Posted on 4/23/15 at 4:21 pm
2012 rancher 4x4, foot shift with 27" mudzillas. It has been ridden maybe twice since deer season ended. Took it out just now for a ride and when I got up to about 40 mph, the rear started jumping, almost threw me off the road. Nothing appears bent or broken and the tires have equal psi. Any ideas what could be happening?
Keep that "should've gotten a (POS brand)" BS out of here
Thanks fellas
Keep that "should've gotten a (POS brand)" BS out of here
Thanks fellas
This post was edited on 4/23/15 at 4:27 pm
5
Posted on 4/23/15 at 4:23 pm to Big_country346
My tires will make a flat spot if it sits up a while that causes a vibration, but it seems to work itself out quite quickly.
Posted on 4/23/15 at 4:25 pm to Big_country346
If it has rear brake drums, check there first. Also check the foot and hand level for the brake.
Posted on 4/23/15 at 4:26 pm to Big_country346
equal air pressure in both rear tires. They will make flat spots
Posted on 4/23/15 at 4:29 pm to jorconalx
10-4. I'll take it out and get the tires warmed up, see if that fixes it. Thanks guys
ETA: All the brakes look and work perfect.
ETA: All the brakes look and work perfect.
This post was edited on 4/23/15 at 4:31 pm
Posted on 4/23/15 at 5:06 pm to Big_country346
That's what happens with toys. They break. Our Ranchers get used everyday and are stock and never break down
Posted on 4/23/15 at 5:15 pm to jimbeam
All stock besides the tires for the mess on the property. Rode on the dirt road for a while, the bouncing died down. Cut onto the blacktop, maybe a mile wide open, running smooth again. Apparently it was a flat spot.
This post was edited on 4/23/15 at 5:16 pm
Posted on 4/23/15 at 6:35 pm to Big_country346
quote:
2012 rancher 4x4
Will still be running in 2025 if you take care of it
Posted on 4/23/15 at 6:38 pm to Mr. Hangover
Taking care of them is where lots of folks go wrong.
Posted on 4/23/15 at 6:39 pm to Mr. Hangover
Will have no brakes and be on its third set of diff bearings 
Posted on 4/23/15 at 7:15 pm to MarcoRamius
I got a 1990 Fourtrax 4x4 with front and rear brakes
Posted on 4/24/15 at 7:36 am to weadjust
After market tires notorious for getting flat spots when sitting up on firm surface. My MudLites definitely do the same thing; I try to at least move the bike around a bit when it's sitting up
Posted on 4/24/15 at 10:48 am to weadjust
quote:
I got a 1990 Fourtrax 4x4 with front and rear brakes
Fronts maybe. But if that bike has seen a light dew in the last 26 years that drum is full of rust
I have a 96 in the shed btw, not honda bashing for the hell of it.
Posted on 4/24/15 at 12:27 pm to MarcoRamius
Rear brake tip
The next time you gota take your rear brakes apart because the cam is frozen try this. When you get the rear apart, drill a hole with a #3 drill bit. Then tap the hole with a 1/4x28 tap (MAKE SURE YOU DRILL AND TAP IT CENTERED OR GREASE GUN WONT FIT).Then screw in a grease (zerk)fitting and put it all back together and give it 2 or 3 pumps.
Not my pic or atv
I put new rear pads on less than a year ago. I also have holes drilled in the cover so water can drain out cause you ain't keeping it out.
Pic of my rear brakes on the 1990 before I replaced the pad. Ruined the pad on there getting the drum off to get the cam unfrozen.
The next time you gota take your rear brakes apart because the cam is frozen try this. When you get the rear apart, drill a hole with a #3 drill bit. Then tap the hole with a 1/4x28 tap (MAKE SURE YOU DRILL AND TAP IT CENTERED OR GREASE GUN WONT FIT).Then screw in a grease (zerk)fitting and put it all back together and give it 2 or 3 pumps.
Not my pic or atv
I put new rear pads on less than a year ago. I also have holes drilled in the cover so water can drain out cause you ain't keeping it out.
Pic of my rear brakes on the 1990 before I replaced the pad. Ruined the pad on there getting the drum off to get the cam unfrozen.
Posted on 4/24/15 at 1:12 pm to weadjust
Protip I learned from my buddY who's a honda tech.
New bearings, seals, and shoes. Drill and tap, fill the entire drum with grease.
Brakes still work and they will last FOREVER.
New bearings, seals, and shoes. Drill and tap, fill the entire drum with grease.
Brakes still work and they will last FOREVER.
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