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Posted on 9/28/17 at 9:53 am to 12Pence
quote:
Had the same car. Did the same thing. POS.
So what did you do about it?
Posted on 9/28/17 at 9:54 am to Mootsman
Had this exact problem with a 2007 explorer (company vehicle), not a mechanic so excuse my ignorance. This happened to me 3 times over about a 4 month period, it went into the the shop each time with them not identifying the cause.
Ultimately the bottom pulley/fly wheel? for the timing belt? literally broke off.
Again, not sure of the correct terminology, which is why I used the question marks but that is what happened to mine. They repaired it and I had no other issues
Ultimately the bottom pulley/fly wheel? for the timing belt? literally broke off.
Again, not sure of the correct terminology, which is why I used the question marks but that is what happened to mine. They repaired it and I had no other issues
This post was edited on 9/28/17 at 9:56 am
Posted on 9/28/17 at 9:55 am to airfernando
quote:
Was the vehicle moving? How long at it been running?
Both times it was moving around 35 mph and had been running for approximately 10 minutes. I believe I was just beginning to slow down as I was in traffic approaching a stop light both times.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 10:11 am to Mootsman
Does your odometer just show dashes when this happens?
If so with the PCM relay 304 under the hood. Like $13 at auto parts store.
My 02 f150 kept doing this. Look at your odometer when it happens. The computer loses a single when the relay opens up unexpectedly.
There is also a smaller one you can swap with the ac relay will do some of this things. Its the power train control module diode (501). You can check with a meter or swap it with the ac compressor diode (502)to get you by.
These were in my f150 book numbers.
If so with the PCM relay 304 under the hood. Like $13 at auto parts store.
My 02 f150 kept doing this. Look at your odometer when it happens. The computer loses a single when the relay opens up unexpectedly.
There is also a smaller one you can swap with the ac relay will do some of this things. Its the power train control module diode (501). You can check with a meter or swap it with the ac compressor diode (502)to get you by.
These were in my f150 book numbers.
This post was edited on 9/28/17 at 10:17 am
Posted on 9/28/17 at 10:26 am to Breaux
quote:
Had this exact problem with a 2007 explorer (company vehicle), not a mechanic so excuse my ignorance. This happened to me 3 times over about a 4 month period, it went into the the shop each time with them not identifying the cause.
It's difficult to diagnose an electrical problem like this when the car isn't actively breaking in front of the mechanic.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 10:30 am to Mootsman
quote:You can probably eliminate air idle control valve then. Bad AIC will shutoff usually at slower speeds. There are so many possibilities. You could get Autozone to check the codes, but I've found that to be a waste of time. They give you the codes, and then you have to go home and research what they mean. And then it's almost impossible to learn anything helpful. Also, those codes are related to symptoms and not the actual causes of the symptoms.
Both times it was moving around 35 mph and had been running for approximately 10 minutes. I believe I was just beginning to slow down as I was in traffic approaching a stop light both times.
The good news is it could be something as simple as a wire vibrating loose enough to turn the system off. You could try checking all connections at battery, starter/solenoid, alternator, etc. Even corrosion on the battery could cause what happened. People will brush off that, but trust me, I've had battery corrosion cause that exact problem.
Your best bet is probably find out how much it will cost to get diagnosed by a professional. Also, try to pick up on any other sounds or other details if it happens again.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 10:42 am to airfernando
One specific part to look at is the mass air flow sensor. It may have a slightly different name depending on the vehicle. They're cheap (on ebay) and easy to replace. Also pretty easy to check with volt meter. Even if it checks good in a volt meter test, it could still be bad or intermittently have problems. Can easily google or youtube how to check.
GET ON EBAY AND NOT AUTOZONE, ETC unless need immediately. Will cost much much less on ebay.
GET ON EBAY AND NOT AUTOZONE, ETC unless need immediately. Will cost much much less on ebay.
This post was edited on 9/28/17 at 10:45 am
Posted on 9/28/17 at 10:43 am to Mootsman
quote:
So what did you do about it?
Never got a Ford again.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 10:49 am to Mootsman
The engine shuts itself down on purpose when it detects overheat (not saying yours is actually overheating). Might be temp gauge not working.
Also - this might sound dumb but sometimes it's a coolant level issue. Check your coolant level and make sure the cap is on securely.
Also - this might sound dumb but sometimes it's a coolant level issue. Check your coolant level and make sure the cap is on securely.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 10:53 am to Mootsman
My uncle had similar issues with a SportTrac turned out to be the body control module.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 11:29 am to Mootsman
I had one the same year and mileage. The doors would lock and unlock randomly while driving. The factory alarm liked to go off inadvertently at 3a too. After a few weeks of that, I drove through a car wash and traded it in for $2k without ever dealing with the problem.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 11:36 am to Mootsman
have you checked your batteries charge and cables recently?
Posted on 9/28/17 at 11:40 am to Mootsman
Might have jumped timing.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 11:52 am to Mootsman
quote:
I don't know anything about auto electrical. Would this be worth getting an engine diagnostic on? All the ford forums say they can never figure out what is wrong with it and I don't want to spend 2k fixing a car that no longer has any value.
If it is the fuse box how much do the fuse boxes run when installed?
OF COURSE you have to have it diagnosed correctly. ANYONE who tells you differently doesn't know what the frick they are talking about. ANd yes a reputable shop is going to charge you , as they should. It will take a multi thousand dollar scanner and a online subscription to one of the automotive repair sources to have access to the various documents about this vehicle as well as the technicians time to correctly diagnose a problem like this.
OR you could just throw parts at it until either it gets fixed or you run out of money.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 11:54 am to Mootsman
quote:
This has happened twice. The engine shuts off and the check engine light comes on. The steering wheel loses all power and the gauges all die but the AC/radio/lights stay on.
Wifes engine had this exact problem with her Toyota SUV. If its the same issue, it was an easy fix for the shop and cost about $200 with a days worth of work.
It was something regarding "Relearning the something or another". I cant remember the exact term but it wasnt a big deal. Just needed to be cleaned and "re-learned", as they put it.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 11:55 am to Mootsman
quote:
02 V8 ford explorer with about 160k miles
I think I found your problem
Posted on 9/28/17 at 12:02 pm to The Mick
quote:
The engine shuts itself down on purpose when it detects overheat (not saying yours is actually overheating). Might be temp gauge not working.
No engine shuts itself off when it overheats. that would be stupid, you're driving down the highway at 70 MPH and the engine just shuts off cuz it overheated , or a sensor read as overheating anyway, and you get in an accident, you'd rightfully sue the shite out of an auto manufacturer.
The newer cars can disable specific cylinders in a pattern that allows the engine to at least get you home safely.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 12:05 pm to Breaux
quote:
Had this exact problem with a 2007 explorer (company vehicle), not a mechanic so excuse my ignorance. This happened to me 3 times over about a 4 month period, it went into the the shop each time with them not identifying the cause.
Ultimately the bottom pulley/fly wheel? for the timing belt? literally broke off.
Again, not sure of the correct terminology, which is why I used the question marks but that is what happened to mine. They repaired it and I had no other issues
Common problem on the Ford 4.0 , the crankshaft pulley is what you are talking about, the balancer just separates.
Posted on 9/28/17 at 12:07 pm to Mootsman
My Mom had an 88 (?) Lincoln Towncar. It was just about a year old when it would just shut off while driving losing all power steering and would freak her out. The dealership threw up their hands had to bring in an "expert" from Ford to look at it. The "expert" couldn't find the problem. If I remember the problem just went away.
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