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Steps for reconstructing home after flood....

Posted on 8/16/16 at 6:54 pm
Posted by Gutterman81
Member since Aug 2007
300 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 6:54 pm
With lots of people without flood insurance what construction steps should I take if I want to do the work myself. Got 3ft of water in my house. Figuring on ripping drywall and insulation 1ft above floodline. Removing doors, trim, flooring. Any recommended chemical solution? Should I replace wiring or just outlets? Going to get professional to look at a/c. Any help is much appreciated.
Posted by CoachChappy
Member since May 2013
32534 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 6:59 pm to
Ok, you need to get the dry wall at the 4 ft line. Then you can put in full sheets of dry wall when you reconstruct. Dry wall comes in 4X8 sheets and are laid out long way. Cut out the insulation just above the flood line.

Get some dehumidifiers and get them running. Bleach mop everything. Most important is the dehumidifiers to get things dry.

Pull out bottom cabinets and get the wall behind them. Cabinets are probably f'ed.

Take pictures of everything!!!!!

If you have carpet, tear it and the pad out. Laminate, wood, linoleum all has to go. There will be mold under there. Save the base board and door trims if you can. This will save money later. Clorox wash those outside.

We just finished deconstructing my mom and grandpa's houses. Almost all of it had carpet. Thank God some local high school kids showed up to work.
This post was edited on 8/16/16 at 7:04 pm
Posted by AtlantaLSUfan
Baton Rouge
Member since Mar 2009
23049 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 7:05 pm to
Solid answer coach

I should loan some neighbor my dehumidifier.
Posted by CoachChappy
Member since May 2013
32534 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 7:10 pm to
We have had 4 rolling non stop and will for at least a week. They are a life saver for killing mold before it develops.

Posted by CoachChappy
Member since May 2013
32534 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 7:14 pm to
Tips for dry wall removal:
1) pop off base board first. Bust through the dry wall, and pull from behind. This will help from breaking it.

2) Measure up from the floor to about 3'8". Bash in the dry wall and grab the top of the hole. Pull up. You will find a band of gause. Grab this and pull it. Pull it out like pealing tape off. This will show you the line of the dry wall and unbound it from the top piece. Now, you can remove the whole piece of dry wall in 1 go.


Feel free to ask questions if y'all have them.

Be safe out there yall
Posted by VetteGuy
Member since Feb 2008
28160 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 7:18 pm to
Posted by Boston911
Lafayette
Member since Dec 2013
1939 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 7:50 pm to
Don't use Clorox or any bleach product, it's corrosive and will cause any metal fastener to corrode. Use an anti fungal/anti old product that is designed for killing anything that can grow. Otherwise, all good advice
Posted by Bucktail1
Member since Feb 2015
3187 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 8:04 pm to
Wrong answer bud.
Posted by CoachChappy
Member since May 2013
32534 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 8:06 pm to
Bleach only corrodes some
Metals and only if the metal is exposed to the bleach for a long period of time. A quick water and bleach mopping will not corrode screws or nails in a wall stud.
Posted by Load Toad
Haughton, LA
Member since Aug 2008
1926 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 8:43 pm to
Don't be cheap or cut corners. All sheet rock from ceiling on down are removed. Your house will have 2 by 6s only. Wooden and tiles floors are going. All new electric wires too. Some areas have a city code saying wires get wet replaced. Best thing to do is spray the mold killing paint on wood. If a company is in town let them do it. You will get a mold free certificate. This really helps when you sell house in the future. Do job right 1st time. I seen it where people take short cuts. 6 months later, black mold start growing thought sheet rock. You are back to square 1 again. Too expensive for a redo.
Posted by The Mick
Member since Oct 2010
43103 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 8:52 pm to
Demo the wet stuff as soon as possible. Dry everything completely and spray mold killing chemicals. Couple of posters were saying you need chemical that kills the spores don't use bleach.
Posted by CoachChappy
Member since May 2013
32534 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 8:53 pm to
Tiles don't have to go. That's literally the best thing about tile.

You are right about doing it right though. If you get mold, you might as well pour gasoline in the house and throwing a box of lit matches in there.
This post was edited on 8/16/16 at 8:55 pm
Posted by Load Toad
Haughton, LA
Member since Aug 2008
1926 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 8:55 pm to
I seen where tile has black mold. Depends on length of time water has been in the structure.
Posted by CoachChappy
Member since May 2013
32534 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 9:02 pm to
I didn't know that.
Posted by CajunAlum Tiger Fan
The Great State of Louisiana
Member since Jan 2008
7871 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 9:07 pm to
Borax is just as good as bleach and is easier to work around.

Other tips:

Some houses have sheetrock hung vertically, so popping a line and cutting it with a skillsaw is fast and makes a clean suit. Oscillating saws work well around casings.

Blowers from bounce houses are great in these situations.

Posted by Load Toad
Haughton, LA
Member since Aug 2008
1926 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 9:08 pm to
I lost a house in ND because of a flood. Water damaged everything in my house plus the slab.
Posted by Boston911
Lafayette
Member since Dec 2013
1939 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 9:17 pm to
Due to the biochemical structure of most mold/fungi, bleach does not penetrate the protective mucus coating. It only kills the top layer and turns it white. You need to use a registered product that has been proven to work against molds and fungi. But if you wanna go the cheap route, take your chances with Clorox, maybe you won't get mold, maybe you will. I know that the two homes we did after Hurricane Rita are mold free, while several neighbors used Clorox and you can smell the mildew in their house.
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