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re: Need new front brake pads for my 2010 Ford f150...recommendations?

Posted on 8/8/17 at 12:22 pm to
Posted by CAD703X
Liberty Island
Member since Jul 2008
78042 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 12:22 pm to
quote:

Might just go with the Duralast Gold.


find some good ol' boy mechanic near you that doesn't mind you bringing your own parts and have them install them for $50
Posted by tigerbutt
Deep South
Member since Jun 2006
24579 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 1:07 pm to
quote:

So it's a 2 person job? The front right and left brakes have to be decompressed on each side at the same time?

No it's a one person job. You do each one by itself. The right front tire has two calipers that you have to decompress.
Posted by tigerbutt
Deep South
Member since Jun 2006
24579 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 1:09 pm to
quote:

Some new vehicles require a tool that turns while you compress the caliper to go in. You can check it out from the auto parts store

No sense buying a tool just to decompress calipers when you can simply use a c clamp.
Posted by Cypressknee
Member since Jul 2017
1195 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 1:21 pm to
Wagner thermo quiets. About $55 a corner but great pads and lifetime warranty which is great if you plan on keeping the vehicle. Find em at oriellys.
Posted by member12
Bob's Country Bunker
Member since May 2008
32095 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 1:27 pm to
quote:

Several to choose from including Duralast (AutoZone brand), BrakeBest, Wagner, Motocraft (Ford OEM pads), semi-metallic, ceramic, etc. Which ones are the best bang for your buck? Are the ceramic pads worth the extra cost? TIA




Is the ceramic pads the ones that are louder?
Posted by thejudge
Westlake, LA
Member since Sep 2009
14054 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 6:25 pm to
quote:

No sense buying a tool just to decompress calipers when you can simply use a c clamp.


Except for the ones in which you can't.

brake tool
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
16566 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 7:11 pm to
quote:

No sense buying a tool just to decompress calipers when you can simply use a c clamp.


Well, the tool costs like $10 and cracking the ceramic piston is about the same cost to buy again. Then about another $9 for seals. Then the time of using that c-clamp to pinch off the brake line, pull off the caliper, dig out the old piston, replace, set the new seal, put everything back together, then bleed out the brake system.
Posted by num1lsufan
Meraux
Member since Feb 2004
1205 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 7:15 pm to
I made it to 195K on my 2004 before having to change them out last week. I still had a little pad left on all of them.
This post was edited on 8/8/17 at 7:17 pm
Posted by ATL-TIGER-732
ATL
Member since Jun 2013
2291 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 8:18 pm to
I would get the blue ones.
Posted by PapaPogey
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2008
39500 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 8:25 pm to
You don't need a "special tool". I've changed the pada on my 13 F150 twice now. Tigerbutt has it nailed. I do the exact same thing with the old caliper and a clamp. It takes maybe 30 min per side.
Posted by tiger7166
Louisiana
Member since Dec 2007
2619 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 8:55 pm to
Buy Oem specified pads. If oe is ceramic go back with ceramic. Greasing the metal to metal contact point eliminates the squeaking. NAPA pads are made with oe specs and have multiple formulations based on vehicle weight and use. Autozone is the Walmart of parts stores. Cheap shite advertised at a low price
Posted by Contender54
the Enn Oh
Member since Jan 2009
998 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 9:32 pm to
quote:

You don't need a "special tool"


For some vehicles, you do. I've always just used the ole C-clamp method, but some vehicles have pistons that thread in. Simply applying pressure from the C-clamp won't do it; the piston needs to be twisted as pressure is applied in order to get it to retract.
Posted by Corn Dawg Nation
Member since Oct 2009
3530 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 9:53 pm to
quote:

some vehicles, you do. I've always just used the ole C-clamp method, but some vehicles have pistons that thread in. Simply applying pressure from the C-clamp won't do it; the piston needs to be twisted as pressure is applied in order to get it to retract.


My wife's Acura is like this.....
Posted by PapaPogey
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2008
39500 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 10:03 pm to
quote:

For some vehicles, you do.


maybe so, but not for the F150 in the OP. I've changed pads half a dozen times on these. I know how it goes and what you do and don't need
Posted by jmarto1
Houma, LA/ Las Vegas, NV
Member since Mar 2008
33926 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 10:41 pm to
I have the same truck and they are going strong at 75k. I dont have a problem paying 100 bucks for them again installed
Posted by biglego
Ask your mom where I been
Member since Nov 2007
76284 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 11:02 pm to
quote:

My wife

Pic
Posted by thejudge
Westlake, LA
Member since Sep 2009
14054 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 11:04 pm to
quote:

You don't need a "special tool". I've changed the pada on my 13 F150 twice now. Tigerbutt has it nailed. I do the exact same thing with the old caliper and a clamp. It takes maybe 30 min per side.


I doont know what you fricking drive. All I said in response to tiger was there might be a tool needed for the new style caliper in the event someone else reads the topic and would like to try it on their own. THAT person might have the different caliper and it might help them out to look it up and see how theirs is.

Not everyone drives a 2013 f150 sir. It's not all about you
Posted by PapaPogey
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2008
39500 posts
Posted on 8/8/17 at 11:27 pm to
The OP said he drives a 2010 F150, so what are you talking about?

Eta: it's the same body style as mine
This post was edited on 8/8/17 at 11:28 pm
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