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Message
Napoleon -- How much for that oven?
Posted on 2/8/17 at 4:21 pm
Posted on 2/8/17 at 4:21 pm
I have a Whirlpool double oven and am getting the code for a bad control board.
The oven is at least 18 years old (house was constructed in 98 or 99.) It's cheaper to replace the control board, but will I looking at more problems down the road?
If I replace with a new unit, what brands do you recommend?
EDIT -- Gimme the details on the used Viking you're selling, if you don't mind. If you prefer to communicate directly, I can get you an email.
The oven is at least 18 years old (house was constructed in 98 or 99.) It's cheaper to replace the control board, but will I looking at more problems down the road?
If I replace with a new unit, what brands do you recommend?
EDIT -- Gimme the details on the used Viking you're selling, if you don't mind. If you prefer to communicate directly, I can get you an email.
This post was edited on 2/9/17 at 4:03 pm
Posted on 2/8/17 at 5:04 pm to Bill Parker?
He typically gets the signal for his services on the OT.
Posted on 2/8/17 at 7:29 pm to Bill Parker?
If it is that old, the best option for sure is to send the control board in to be repaired.
Make a note of your connections prior to pulling the board (black-L1, red - L2, Blue-Broil, Yellow-bake, orange-convec, etc)
Then contact core centric. Core centric PCB control board repair
They warranty the repair, and many times they fix issues that are known to fail in boards even if they haven't failed. The repair is a flat rate per board too.
I use them a lot for old boards. Likely you get the repair and the problem never returns.
That said. A great thing to do is to get a multimeter or a continuity tester and test every wire that isn't green or white and make sure nothing is in continuity with the oven chassis (ground) (other than white or green wires or a mostly white wire)
A short in the oven would fry a new board, but 99.9% of the time trips the breakers or produces heat, so this isn't common if there is no tripped breaker or heat when off.
Wall ovens, anything but GE.
I actually like Whirlpool wall ovens, frigidaire seem to be flakey after a while. High end, Dacor or Viking, lower end LG or Whirlpool.
I have a used double Viking set I'm about to sell
Make a note of your connections prior to pulling the board (black-L1, red - L2, Blue-Broil, Yellow-bake, orange-convec, etc)
Then contact core centric. Core centric PCB control board repair
They warranty the repair, and many times they fix issues that are known to fail in boards even if they haven't failed. The repair is a flat rate per board too.
I use them a lot for old boards. Likely you get the repair and the problem never returns.
That said. A great thing to do is to get a multimeter or a continuity tester and test every wire that isn't green or white and make sure nothing is in continuity with the oven chassis (ground) (other than white or green wires or a mostly white wire)
A short in the oven would fry a new board, but 99.9% of the time trips the breakers or produces heat, so this isn't common if there is no tripped breaker or heat when off.
Wall ovens, anything but GE.
I actually like Whirlpool wall ovens, frigidaire seem to be flakey after a while. High end, Dacor or Viking, lower end LG or Whirlpool.
I have a used double Viking set I'm about to sell
This post was edited on 2/8/17 at 7:30 pm
Posted on 2/8/17 at 9:32 pm to Napoleon
Thanks for the advice. I don't mess with electrical, so I'll consider the repair option if not too expensive.
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