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Acoustic guitar tuning keys
Posted on 5/12/17 at 8:42 pm
Posted on 5/12/17 at 8:42 pm
I've got an older model Yamaha that Was given to me, it's not worth much. I was thinking about changing the tuner keys and lowering the bridge. For those that have done this, did it make a difference in the action and playability?
2
Posted on 5/12/17 at 8:49 pm to Flamefighter
Truss rod? Tuner keys I don't see helping? Lowering the bridge/saddle would do something. But a truss rod adjustment MAY take care of it all.
Of course I am only a high level beginner.
So my FOS factor may be high.
Of course I am only a high level beginner.
So my FOS factor may be high.
Posted on 5/12/17 at 8:51 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Thanks! I didn't thing of the truss rod
Posted on 5/12/17 at 8:54 pm to Flamefighter
no problem. watch a few youtube videos on how to do it. Just a 1/4 of a turn with an Alan Wrench is huge.
Posted on 5/13/17 at 7:10 am to LSU alum wannabe
New tuning keys aren't part of the action formula, but they may help stabilize tuning if you're having issues with staying in tune. If your old tuners slip under tension, if they feel sloppy when you use them, those are signs they are worn out or getting to that point.
The big factors that contribute to an acoustic guitar's action include the truss rod, nut slots and bridge saddle height. If you watch videos and attempt a DIY truss rod adjustment, a.) use the PROPER wrench for your truss rod, make sure it's a perfect, snug fit; b.) a little goes A LONG way, like LSUAW said; and b.) DO NOT force truss rods that are difficult to turn. If you break that rod inside the neck, strip or damage the truss rod nut where the wrench inserts, etc., you will create problems that are more expensive to get a pro to fix than the typical Yamaha guitar is worth.
Factors affecting action that come into play as guitars get older are soundboard "bellying" (when the top bulges behind the bridge and it begins leaning towards the nut end slightly); and soundboard sinking around the soundhole, which usually requires a neck reset to remedy. Neither are easy for the DIY'er or a cheap investment as far as getting a pro to fix. If you can see pronounced top bellying or sinking on your guitar, simple action adjustment areas may lessen the action issues somewhat, but they won't counteract them.
The big factors that contribute to an acoustic guitar's action include the truss rod, nut slots and bridge saddle height. If you watch videos and attempt a DIY truss rod adjustment, a.) use the PROPER wrench for your truss rod, make sure it's a perfect, snug fit; b.) a little goes A LONG way, like LSUAW said; and b.) DO NOT force truss rods that are difficult to turn. If you break that rod inside the neck, strip or damage the truss rod nut where the wrench inserts, etc., you will create problems that are more expensive to get a pro to fix than the typical Yamaha guitar is worth.
Factors affecting action that come into play as guitars get older are soundboard "bellying" (when the top bulges behind the bridge and it begins leaning towards the nut end slightly); and soundboard sinking around the soundhole, which usually requires a neck reset to remedy. Neither are easy for the DIY'er or a cheap investment as far as getting a pro to fix. If you can see pronounced top bellying or sinking on your guitar, simple action adjustment areas may lessen the action issues somewhat, but they won't counteract them.
Posted on 5/13/17 at 3:59 pm to Flamefighter
As everybody has already said, truss rod first,then sand the bottom of the saddle if needed( be sure you sand it evenly). That Yamaha is probably the perfect guitar to learn to work on.
When I am adjusting the truss rod, I only loosen the D&G strings,that way I can keep checking,clearance,and limits how much I can turn the allen wrench at one time. Of course, that is only if the allen end is inside the guitar cavity.
When I am adjusting the truss rod, I only loosen the D&G strings,that way I can keep checking,clearance,and limits how much I can turn the allen wrench at one time. Of course, that is only if the allen end is inside the guitar cavity.
Posted on 5/14/17 at 9:28 am to auggie
Thanks!!!
Posted on 5/14/17 at 4:49 pm to Flamefighter
Like FretShack said (basically)... there are three parts to the equation to action. Actually, four if you take fret height and leveling into the equation.
The height above the fretboard is a set at both ends of the string - at the nut and at the bridge. If you try to adjust at the bridge only (and not at the nut as well) the further you move down the string towards the nut, the less the string will be lowered, to the point that it will have practically no effect in the first few frets of the guitar.
The relief (or bow) in the neck also effects the action toward the middle frets of the neck. You want just a tiny bit of bow (away from the strings) in the neck to help eliminate buzz. If you play with a light touch, you can get away with it practically flat. About 1/8th of a turn of the truss rod is all you should ever do, then let it sit for a few hours or a day if you can stand it and then check. It takes the wood a while to react and adjust.
The height above the fretboard is a set at both ends of the string - at the nut and at the bridge. If you try to adjust at the bridge only (and not at the nut as well) the further you move down the string towards the nut, the less the string will be lowered, to the point that it will have practically no effect in the first few frets of the guitar.
The relief (or bow) in the neck also effects the action toward the middle frets of the neck. You want just a tiny bit of bow (away from the strings) in the neck to help eliminate buzz. If you play with a light touch, you can get away with it practically flat. About 1/8th of a turn of the truss rod is all you should ever do, then let it sit for a few hours or a day if you can stand it and then check. It takes the wood a while to react and adjust.
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