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Draftsman - Hunting Camp Plans - Flood Insurance Question
Posted on 1/4/17 at 12:19 pm
Posted on 1/4/17 at 12:19 pm
Hi, we are looking to build a raised hunting camp on the MS river batture. In need of someone who can design and provide a set of builder plans. Will involve some engineering due to having to raise it.
Does anyone know what breakaway walls are regarding flood insurance requirements? We would like to have the garage below the camp for atv's, storage, deer cleaning, etc and have it be secure while we are gone. Is it possible to secure 'break away' walls? Thank you.
Does anyone know what breakaway walls are regarding flood insurance requirements? We would like to have the garage below the camp for atv's, storage, deer cleaning, etc and have it be secure while we are gone. Is it possible to secure 'break away' walls? Thank you.
Posted on 1/4/17 at 12:40 pm to Delta Deer
The only thing I know here is my experience with friends and family in this type of thing, and if you have any type of enclosure the insurance company is going to make you pay for that. If they didn't its way too easy to scam them. If underneath is in the flood zone you are going to have to pay for that.
If you don't want to pay for that area to be covered, you may look into getting a separate shed or pole barn type of thing and not have that insured.
If you don't want to pay for that area to be covered, you may look into getting a separate shed or pole barn type of thing and not have that insured.
Posted on 1/4/17 at 3:02 pm to baldona
You need to consult a competent insurance agent and the surveyor you use to produce pre and post elevation certificates.
The definitions of base flood elevation, lowest horizontal structural member, unfinished space/breakaway walls in a V flood zone is clear in the NFIP manual.
"Any type of enclosure" does not equal effectively lowering the house. You can close in unfinished storage space that allows unobstructed water flow without limitation. You can install screened wooden lattice panels that go all the way to the ground that allow water to flow through the storage and drop outlets in conduits from the second floor. A local electrician and plumber will know how to get water and power down to the storage space and be compliant.
Build at a positive height to base flood elevation to save money if you buy flood insurance. The best advice is do NOT add post-construction / post-elevation certificate fixtures on the ground floor. Adding unpermitted fixtures will effectively lower the house, e.g. toilets, showers, electricity, drywall.
I've encountered more than a few clients that added a potty/shower/outlets/walls under their lake house after construction. The flood claim is denied because of the material alterations from the final certificate, plus they got a retroactive bill for that year's flood insurance at the new lower elevation for $10,000+.
If you're building a lake house in Mississippi in Harrison or Hancock county, you're going to pay $5,000+ per year even at a +2 foot elevation for max limits. The NFIP changes make insuring second homes in V zones prohibitively expensive. I would not buy flood insurance on such a house. 10 years later, you've paid $50,000+, just put the money in a CD instead every year.
The definitions of base flood elevation, lowest horizontal structural member, unfinished space/breakaway walls in a V flood zone is clear in the NFIP manual.
"Any type of enclosure" does not equal effectively lowering the house. You can close in unfinished storage space that allows unobstructed water flow without limitation. You can install screened wooden lattice panels that go all the way to the ground that allow water to flow through the storage and drop outlets in conduits from the second floor. A local electrician and plumber will know how to get water and power down to the storage space and be compliant.
Build at a positive height to base flood elevation to save money if you buy flood insurance. The best advice is do NOT add post-construction / post-elevation certificate fixtures on the ground floor. Adding unpermitted fixtures will effectively lower the house, e.g. toilets, showers, electricity, drywall.
I've encountered more than a few clients that added a potty/shower/outlets/walls under their lake house after construction. The flood claim is denied because of the material alterations from the final certificate, plus they got a retroactive bill for that year's flood insurance at the new lower elevation for $10,000+.
If you're building a lake house in Mississippi in Harrison or Hancock county, you're going to pay $5,000+ per year even at a +2 foot elevation for max limits. The NFIP changes make insuring second homes in V zones prohibitively expensive. I would not buy flood insurance on such a house. 10 years later, you've paid $50,000+, just put the money in a CD instead every year.
This post was edited on 1/4/17 at 3:20 pm
Posted on 1/4/17 at 3:11 pm to baldona
quote:
the insurance company
You mean FEMA?
Posted on 1/4/17 at 8:10 pm to Delta Deer
You can put in water reliefs and not insure the bottom floor usually. It sounds like you just want to make it thief proof since it's a camp. Treat it like a garage. They basically require holes every so far and you can back them with something like screen material to keep small rats and critter out.
Posted on 1/4/17 at 8:14 pm to Delta Deer
LINK
Scroll down about half way down that page and they have an example. It's in block, but you could do block or wood walls.
Scroll down about half way down that page and they have an example. It's in block, but you could do block or wood walls.
Posted on 1/5/17 at 8:47 am to Libertariantiger
The main objective is that FEMA does not consider the ground level area in their elevation calculation.
How do you construct wood, block, or metal walls below that are not part of the 'structure' so FEMA doesn't include it?
Thank you
How do you construct wood, block, or metal walls below that are not part of the 'structure' so FEMA doesn't include it?
Thank you
Posted on 1/5/17 at 11:57 am to Delta Deer
Are you opposed to the shed idea? Heck you could put the shed under the house and fence it in.
I could see the cinderblock idea working and maybe even just using those on 3 sides with some kind of gate garage door on the 4th? But you want to steer very clear of making it a "living space" as you can.
I could see the cinderblock idea working and maybe even just using those on 3 sides with some kind of gate garage door on the 4th? But you want to steer very clear of making it a "living space" as you can.
Posted on 1/5/17 at 9:47 pm to Delta Deer
Build the raised structure
Get flood insurance
Then build enclosure around the bottom
If you put the enclosure around the bottom the ground will become your "top of bottom floor" and the elevation used for flood rating.
Get flood insurance
Then build enclosure around the bottom
If you put the enclosure around the bottom the ground will become your "top of bottom floor" and the elevation used for flood rating.
Posted on 1/5/17 at 10:51 pm to Delta Deer
If I'm not mistaken, top of bottom floor in your flood elevation is conditioned space. Have you ever been to the beach and they have the garage under the home? It's like that. They have a separate line on the flood elevation. They usually make all the walls under non load bearing, but they can be load rating, they just have to be treated lumber if under the flood height.
Posted on 1/6/17 at 8:48 am to Libertariantiger
If you plan on putting it in a VE zone just build a separate shed and leave it uninsured. Even if you build it the way they tell you it will still cost a ton more. Breakaway walls can breakaway and then damage the housing above. Also in a VE zone you get discounts to +4 BFE not +2 like previously mentioned. If you are looking at building in Mississippi look at a company called Coastal American. They include flood in their property policy and it is not too expensive
Posted on 1/6/17 at 12:05 pm to Slickback
quote:
Build the raised structure
Get flood insurance
Then build enclosure around the bottom
Terrible advice above. This scenario will result in $0 in flood insurance claim recovery, a multi-thousand dollar premium bill at the new lower elevation for the current policy period and possible charges of insurance fraud. I have seen this claim scenario before multiple times professionally and it doesn't end well when you break rules/laws.
Just hire a competent builder, surveyor and insurance agent who know the rules, which are very clear, to do it right instead of asking people on the internet who clearly don't know what they're talking about.
Or forgo flood insurance altogether, as it will be $4,000 ~ $5,000 per year in your location for a maximum possible recovery of $350,000. Risk retention is the most efficient risk management strategy in this case, versus risk avoidance or risk transfer via insurance.
This post was edited on 1/6/17 at 12:06 pm
Posted on 1/6/17 at 11:19 pm to GoIrish02
As said previously: Garage needs to be uninsured separate structure. Leave the underneath open and unfinished.
This is the best and most succinct advice you've gotten or will get.
This is the best and most succinct advice you've gotten or will get.
This post was edited on 1/6/17 at 11:20 pm
Posted on 1/8/17 at 8:58 pm to Delta Deer
I can design and produce a construction set of plans for your camp. And provide architectural stamp. Also have info on breakaway walls.
Send me a email @ truhomedesign@ymail.com or give me a call @ three three sezen - 692-5369
Send me a email @ truhomedesign@ymail.com or give me a call @ three three sezen - 692-5369
Posted on 1/10/17 at 10:09 am to baldona
Thank you for the reply. I am not opposed to the shed idea. I was just trying to save some money by not building a separate structure when there is all that 'usable' space beneath the camp.
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