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Concrete driveway question

Posted on 11/3/21 at 1:51 pm
Posted by Scoob
Near Exxon
Member since Jun 2009
20362 posts
Posted on 11/3/21 at 1:51 pm
So, I went ahead and bit the bullet, replaced my old driveway which was graded poorly, and broken up in places.

This was pricy, and that was understood. I consider it well-spent, it was needed and should address some drainage issues going forward.

Timeframe coincided with Ida, which really was a PITA. Removal of old before the storm, pour was after. Left a nasty mess during, which is now "in the past".

Question- we're now a bit over a month out, and I see some (very straight) hairline cracks in, I suppose, expected areas. I'm guessing these are intended sections, as I have read that is what happens. What initially was a single, long, seamless driveway, is becoming giant rectangular blocks. I did try to water the driveway for the first week daily, and then at least another week. I've since stopped.
I did keep everything off the driveway for 1 week, didn't put a vehicle on for 8 days. Didn't really even walk on it for that first week.

At this point, is there really anything that would further limit the cracks, or is this just something that is expected? Again, we're not taking spiderwebs, we're talking what seems to be sections. They're just now beginning to appear.

added- nothing going lengthwise, or otherwise appearing to be "bad", just straight-line cracks going from one side to the other, at regular maybe 20 ft intervals.

This post was edited on 11/3/21 at 1:55 pm
Posted by ds_engineer
South Mississippi
Member since Dec 2014
386 posts
Posted on 11/3/21 at 2:00 pm to
No expansion joints?

Typically, the first cracks you see are from shrinkage and drying. You should have expansion joints that minimizes these cracks and controls the crack locations. If you don't have expansion joints, have someone come in and cut you some.

You'll always have a few random cracks appear, but with proper control joints and drainage it should last forever.
Posted by Scoob
Near Exxon
Member since Jun 2009
20362 posts
Posted on 11/3/21 at 2:32 pm to
quote:

No expansion joints?

Typically, the first cracks you see are from shrinkage and drying. You should have expansion joints that minimizes these cracks and controls the crack locations
Not being an engineer ...

I assume the cracks are forming at expansion joints, yes. I know the guy put metal dividers every so often, which seemed to disappear in the final product (I knew where they were, but didn't see them). That's where I am now seeing these cracks. The cracks are uniform, parallel, and appear very straight.

Driveway is basically a long rectangle, which at points expands to meet a two car carport (which wasn't pulled up). Carport WAS about 4 inches higher than the driveway, the driveway sloped downwards TOWARDS that before.

New driveway starts at that elevation, stays flat with a slight grade, out towards the road. This resulted in some THICK concrete near the house, as I would say the part at the road is still at least 4-5 inches thick at minimum.

The cracks I see are all linear, and would be blocks. It's as if you laid it out as blocks... one side of the driveway has rectangles from the carport to the road. At each time there is an angular change, to create the expansion in width, there is a crack, seperating it from the block.

So, there is a series of rectangles, with a 30 degree Right Triangle alongside it, and then one with a different angle (lesser angle so it comes into the carport...that isn't divided off at that angle, but instead is a 4-sided polygon aside a square).

The cracks all appear to be at 90 degree angles from each other, either parallel or perpendictular, and straight. Nothing wandering, or skewed. I see them, but it's not like I can place anything inside them. It's just not a flush, singular surface anymore.

That's correct to what it should be, right?
Posted by ds_engineer
South Mississippi
Member since Dec 2014
386 posts
Posted on 11/3/21 at 2:56 pm to
I should have never put my profession as my user name.

Everything you described is legit. The control joints should be spaced where you have near square shaped panels. The more square a panel forms with the expansion joint cracks, the more stable that portion of the slab. No real need to keep the expansion joints sealed unless you see some separation, then use an elastomeric sealant.

You'll always get random cracks, expect them on any irregular shaped panels. Just keep them sealed as best possible and make sure you maintain good drainage.

Good luck
Posted by Scoob
Near Exxon
Member since Jun 2009
20362 posts
Posted on 11/3/21 at 3:10 pm to
Thanks, and meant no harm with the engineer comment. Just outside my field of expertise
Posted by Drunken Crawfish
Member since Apr 2017
3822 posts
Posted on 11/3/21 at 4:02 pm to
Like OP said above, those metal pieces they put in there are control joints.

I had my driveway extended to a new garage we are building and it’s doing the same thing.

You can see the metal pieces in the form.

Posted by Cracker
in a box
Member since Nov 2009
17681 posts
Posted on 11/3/21 at 6:59 pm to
concrete 100% will crack
Posted by Dandaman
Louisiana
Member since May 2017
704 posts
Posted on 11/3/21 at 7:15 pm to
I’ve heard concrete wants to crack every 10 feet. Never understood why they make control joints at 20 feet
Posted by uaslick
Tuscaloosa
Member since May 2011
841 posts
Posted on 11/3/21 at 9:22 pm to
quote:

concrete 100% will crack

Old-timer concrete guy told me once, “Ice cream melts, concrete cracks.” Unavoidable.
Posted by shawnlsu
Member since Nov 2011
23682 posts
Posted on 11/4/21 at 8:16 am to
Because you measure from the middle of the section. Middle to each side should be 10' to either an expansion joint or and edge.
Posted by ds_engineer
South Mississippi
Member since Dec 2014
386 posts
Posted on 11/4/21 at 2:59 pm to
quote:

I’ve heard concrete wants to crack every 10 feet. Never understood why they make control joints at 20 feet


The control joint spacing varies on the shape of the concrete flatwork, the thickness of the slab, reinforcing materials, and mix design. 20x20 panels are acceptable for most exterior hardscape.
Posted by rjo_lsu
Lafayette, La
Member since Jul 2005
396 posts
Posted on 11/6/21 at 1:07 pm to
Control joints should be set no more than 2 1/2 x thickness of concrete with a max of 15’. 4” thick concrete would put joints at 10’ each way. Sidewalk joints should be set 5’ on center. If your contractor is not doing this, the likelihood of having additional cracking does go up significantly.
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