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Started By
Message
Anyone replaced all steering/suspension joints on a GM truck?
Posted on 7/14/14 at 10:29 pm
Posted on 7/14/14 at 10:29 pm
Test drove a 04 2500 4wd with a 6.0/4L80E in it today. Motor and tranny were absolutely flawless. Ran just as good as a brand new truck and pulled hard. Truck was straight as a carbon arrow. All panels aligned perfectly, etc. Only had one problem though(well I guess a bunch).
All of the joints were leaking grease, and it was clanking and clunking around. As far as I could tell, it needs new upper and lower BJs on both sides, inner and outer tie rods on both sides, steering box needed to be tightened up, and an idler arm. It had 114k on it, and needing all of that isn't disconcerting to me in the least bit. I plan on using it as a bargaining tool. It also looked like it could benefit from new control arm bushings and shocks.
I priced all of that out on Rock Auto, and it was $510 for all Moog stuff. Out of all of the above, I have replaced all but the lower ball joints, control arm bushings, and idler arm myself on vehicles.
Should I even attempt the lowers and idler arm? I've heard they can both be a huge PITA, but I have never seen it done, so I don't know. Should I try and get the dealership to do it all? If I try to talk them down, what is the book labor on all of that? It is priced well, so I was ballparking asking for $1500 off because of the repairs.
Tie rods are easy as frick. Shocks are easy as frick. Tightening steering box takes all of a minute. Upper ball joints were aggravating, but not much knowledge was needed
All of the joints were leaking grease, and it was clanking and clunking around. As far as I could tell, it needs new upper and lower BJs on both sides, inner and outer tie rods on both sides, steering box needed to be tightened up, and an idler arm. It had 114k on it, and needing all of that isn't disconcerting to me in the least bit. I plan on using it as a bargaining tool. It also looked like it could benefit from new control arm bushings and shocks.
I priced all of that out on Rock Auto, and it was $510 for all Moog stuff. Out of all of the above, I have replaced all but the lower ball joints, control arm bushings, and idler arm myself on vehicles.
Should I even attempt the lowers and idler arm? I've heard they can both be a huge PITA, but I have never seen it done, so I don't know. Should I try and get the dealership to do it all? If I try to talk them down, what is the book labor on all of that? It is priced well, so I was ballparking asking for $1500 off because of the repairs.
Tie rods are easy as frick. Shocks are easy as frick. Tightening steering box takes all of a minute. Upper ball joints were aggravating, but not much knowledge was needed
This post was edited on 7/14/14 at 10:34 pm
5
Posted on 7/14/14 at 10:36 pm to Hammertime
Idler arm sucks. Won't ever do one again after doing mine. Not sure about lower ball joints. May be cheaper to just get new control arms with ball joints bc that's easy to put in if it's just the LCA.
This was on a 1500 though
This was on a 1500 though
This post was edited on 7/14/14 at 10:40 pm
Posted on 7/14/14 at 10:37 pm to Hammertime
Steering shaft will clunk on that era GM truck regardless of what you do.
Posted on 7/14/14 at 10:40 pm to Hammertime
I did my BJs tire RE and shocks but it was on a 1500 2wd. Wasnt all that bad. The suspension is the only thing that starts to give on the GMs, 250k miles and motor and tranny are still top notch, for longevity I will put GMs motors up against anything out there.
Posted on 7/14/14 at 10:41 pm to CP3
quote:
May be cheaper to just get new control arms with ball joints bc that's easy to put in if it's just the LCA.
Thats how mine were iirc.
Posted on 7/14/14 at 10:44 pm to weagle99
I know what you're talking about, but it is not that
quote:I believe they are the same exact design. Nothing different about them. I am not sure, but I seem to remember someone telling me the parts between a 1500 and 2500 are interchangeable, except the 2500 uses a bigger torsion bar
This was on a 1500 though
Posted on 7/15/14 at 4:51 am to Hammertime
Did it on mine. Drilling out the rivets on the ball joints is a pain in the arse. Best way to get the Pittman arm off is to pull the gearbox off and put it on the bench where you can get on it good. Tie rods are a cinch. Drilling out the rivets sucks big meat balls.
Eta: the idler arm was easy on mine, but it might have been because of the lift. You need a puller and an impact to get it off though as well as a badass soft hammer to get the Pittman arm back on. The shaft is tapered and you have to beat the frick out of it to get the arm all the way on. Chances are the clunk is from slack in the joint in the steering shaft. Don't be surprised if you do all this and the steering wheel still has some flop to it.
Eta: the idler arm was easy on mine, but it might have been because of the lift. You need a puller and an impact to get it off though as well as a badass soft hammer to get the Pittman arm back on. The shaft is tapered and you have to beat the frick out of it to get the arm all the way on. Chances are the clunk is from slack in the joint in the steering shaft. Don't be surprised if you do all this and the steering wheel still has some flop to it.
This post was edited on 7/15/14 at 4:56 am
Posted on 7/15/14 at 5:50 am to Hammertime
Easy solution-
Torch off all that crap, call Off Road Design, put a Dana 60 up front with leaf springs.
Now you have the baddest truck ever conceived by man.
Solid axle, late model 4WD Chevy.
Torch off all that crap, call Off Road Design, put a Dana 60 up front with leaf springs.
Now you have the baddest truck ever conceived by man.
Solid axle, late model 4WD Chevy.
Posted on 7/15/14 at 5:54 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
That yr doesnt hsve rivets holding the bj in. if your local parts store rents bj press then its not to bad.
Replace complete upper contr arm.
Replace complete upper contr arm.
Posted on 7/15/14 at 7:23 am to greasemonkey
Replace the complete upper even though the arm itself is still good? Are you saying that so I don't have to press a new BJ in?
I was thinking about doing the bushings anyway, so they would probably both be coming off, getting cleaned, and painted again
Any idea on how much I should ask off because of the parts/work?
I was thinking about doing the bushings anyway, so they would probably both be coming off, getting cleaned, and painted again
Any idea on how much I should ask off because of the parts/work?
This post was edited on 7/15/14 at 7:26 am
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