exactly, I get what the OP is saying about wheel guns "can" fail, but a quality revolver failing due to anything beyond EXTREME negligence,, (ie dragging it through the mud with cylinder open) just really never happens, and if you do that to a semi-auto you get the same failures... yet they can ALSO jam from a single bad round..

the concept of the wheel gun reliability is pretty sound and sage advice.

This post was edited on 2/22/16 at 5:33 pm

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Posted by Goatofgoats

Sout Loosyanna

Member since Feb 2016

224 posts

Posted on 2/22/16 at 6:33 pm to Jagd Tiger

Yeah, I also disagree with #3. Sure, a revolver CAN fail. A bicycle can fail, but I'd put money on a motorcycle breaking down before a bicycle. I think that's a fair comparison.

If you can't pull the trigger on a revolver to fire another round, then wtf just happened?
The autoloader probably isn't going to function either.

I have no agenda to persuade people to buy a revolver over an auto. I just see #3 as silly. If he had went with the argument that autos have more capacity, or can be reloaded faster and more reliably, I can buy into that.

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Posted by dawg23

Baton Rouge, La

Member since Jul 2011

5065 posts

Posted on 2/23/16 at 2:15 pm to Jagd Tiger

quote:
exactly, I get what the OP is saying about wheel guns "can" fail, but a quality revolver failing due to anything beyond EXTREME negligence,, (ie dragging it through the mud with cylinder open) just really never happens,

I don't claim to have a great depth of experience with revolvers. But I do know they can malfunction with greater frequency than you suggest.

Even the experts on this board might learn from the "dual" AAR that was posted recently by Lucky Gunner re a Tom Givens revolver class and a Chuck Haggard, et al, revolver class.

Some of his comments:

quote:
The fact of the matter is that even though revolvers can be very reliable, they’re also prone to some pretty serious issues that don’t affect semi-autos. Just in the past year, I’ve had plenty of revolvers malfunction on me and I’ve also seen people on the range have problems, too.

Problems like…

A frozen cylinder from debris under the extractor star or from out of spec primers.
An extractor rod backing itself out preventing the cylinder from opening.
Multiple light primer strikes.
A shooter being sprayed with bullet fragments from a revolver with severe timing issues.
A Smith and Wesson revolver with a broken cylinder release latch.
A Ruger GP100 that completely stopped working due to a broken cylinder latch.
And several instances of triggers spontaneously dragging or freezing up for undetermined reasons.

And I’m not even going to go through all the user-induced problems like short stroking the trigger or all the different ways you can fumble a reload.

Out of all those issues, only one — the light primer strikes — is easily fixed. You just pull the trigger again. All those other issues, you have to get out the toolbox, or at the very least spend a few minutes messing with the gun, and in some cases, even send it back to the factory.

Of course, semi-autos malfunction too, but the most common problems can be fixed with a simple tap-rack drill that just takes a second. Double feed malfunctions take a little longer to fix, but they’re really not all that common with modern quality pistols using decent ammo.

Over the course of Tom’s one-day revolver class there were plenty of malfunctions on the firing line, and he was sure to point them out every time, emphasizing just how difficult it can be to fix them under pressure.

Just his $.02 worth.

My $.02 is that anything mechanical or electronic can go TU. And Captain Murphy would suggest that if anything can go wrong, it will, at the worst possible time.

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