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re: The tune-up thread
Posted on 8/21/14 at 10:59 am to Hammertime
Posted on 8/21/14 at 10:59 am to Hammertime
I'm gonna fool with my mine this weekend, but first step will be figuring out what I need to replace. I'm almost certain the (4wd) hub/bearing is going out. I've got vibration in the pedal that goes away in a gentle turn. I plan on changing the shocks, rotors, pads, and bearing all at the same time. What other components of the front end need to be looked at an possibly replaced when a bad bearing has left everything rattling for a little while? Last thing I wanna find out is I gotta pull all that shite off again.
0
Posted on 8/21/14 at 11:08 am to Spaceman Spiff
Just buy joints with zerk fittings next time. Mine is an 04 2500HD with the 6.0. I am gonna do pads, turn the rotors, and add stainless lines.
Dunno what vehicle you have, but when you jack it up, lock the steering wheel and take the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and shake them. If they move, you probably need ball joints. Then, take the tire at 3 and 9 and shake it. And wiggling would suggest tie rods, idler, or pitman need to be replaced, but most probably the rods because they are the smallest joint. Just gotta get underneath and look for any movement. Check the CV boots for tears all of the way around the rubber or grease spilled out also. Maybe a steering stabilizer if you have one. They are only like $30 and pretty easy to replace if you have a bunch of miles. Just check in general for movement while it is in the air or clunking when you are driving.
Clean and grease your caliper pins and remember to properly seat the pads. Also check the color of the fluid, and if it needs to be flushed, get it done at the shop when you get the alignment.
Still a good time to go over all of your fluids and check for loss or discoloration. IIRC, MJ2 posted a pic on the OT of gummed up coolant, and it was nasty. My last truck has two types of coolant mixed in the system and it just looked like green jelly.
*I'm still not a mechanic, but I just kind of figured shite out over the years. Maybe MJ2 or grease might have something else to add.
quote:Sounds like a hub, but jack it up and spin them. You'll be able to hear scraping/grinding/clicking.
TheDrunkenTigah
Dunno what vehicle you have, but when you jack it up, lock the steering wheel and take the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and shake them. If they move, you probably need ball joints. Then, take the tire at 3 and 9 and shake it. And wiggling would suggest tie rods, idler, or pitman need to be replaced, but most probably the rods because they are the smallest joint. Just gotta get underneath and look for any movement. Check the CV boots for tears all of the way around the rubber or grease spilled out also. Maybe a steering stabilizer if you have one. They are only like $30 and pretty easy to replace if you have a bunch of miles. Just check in general for movement while it is in the air or clunking when you are driving.
Clean and grease your caliper pins and remember to properly seat the pads. Also check the color of the fluid, and if it needs to be flushed, get it done at the shop when you get the alignment.
Still a good time to go over all of your fluids and check for loss or discoloration. IIRC, MJ2 posted a pic on the OT of gummed up coolant, and it was nasty. My last truck has two types of coolant mixed in the system and it just looked like green jelly.
*I'm still not a mechanic, but I just kind of figured shite out over the years. Maybe MJ2 or grease might have something else to add.
This post was edited on 8/21/14 at 11:25 am
Posted on 8/21/14 at 11:13 am to Hammertime
quote:
Just buy joints with zerk fittings next time. Mine is an 04 2500HD with the 6.0. I am gonna do pads, turn the rotors, and add stainless lines.
I plan on it. Your write-up is awesome. It needs to get stickied! Oh, have you done your differential fluid yet?
Posted on 8/21/14 at 11:28 am to Spaceman Spiff
The rear, but not the front. I will do that one when I do the idler arm. Rear is easy, but just buy a gasket instead if making one out of a tube of gasket maker. That shite gets everywhere. Only thing special I do is to drive around and get the fluid warm so it drains quicker. You can get a little plastic pump and a torque wrench at AutoZone for $15 and $35 IIRC.
Posted on 8/21/14 at 11:34 am to Hammertime
Wait, there shouldn't be a front differential unless it is a 4x4 or am I missing something? I have done my Tacoma's a couple of times - I always use Mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic in mine. I had one of those little pumps, but used it to put trans fluid in my wife's work car Prius and just threw it away because didn't feel like cleaning that stuff out of it..
Posted on 8/21/14 at 11:46 am to Spaceman Spiff
Yeah, only a 4wd will have a front diff. I was talking about on mine.
My truck is still stumbling a little at idle, but not throughout the rpms. I just picked up a PCV valve, so hopefully that cures it. I'd have to put on my big thinking cap to figure it out if not. Maybe vacuum leak, but I can't hear anything
My truck is still stumbling a little at idle, but not throughout the rpms. I just picked up a PCV valve, so hopefully that cures it. I'd have to put on my big thinking cap to figure it out if not. Maybe vacuum leak, but I can't hear anything
Posted on 8/21/14 at 11:47 am to Hammertime
Supposedly there's issues with the cam sensor on cold starts
Posted on 8/21/14 at 11:53 am to Hammertime
Its an 04 colorado z71 4wd, front end is almost identical to everything you've posted.
Posted on 8/21/14 at 12:47 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I've still got to do the fuel filter, but wouldn't that make it stumble throughout the powerband instead of just at idle? I guess maybe there is a possibility that I couldn't feel it when it's running, but idk
Posted on 8/21/14 at 1:01 pm to Hammertime
Is it just at idle?
Posted on 8/21/14 at 1:05 pm to Spaceman Spiff
Yup, that's the only time I can feel and hear it. Idling and warmed up
Posted on 8/21/14 at 1:12 pm to Hammertime
Have you checked the fuel, injectors, throttle body, coil, plugs (not necessarily in that order)?
Posted on 8/21/14 at 1:21 pm to Hammertime
quote:
lock the steering wheel and take the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and shake them. If they move, you probably need ball joints. Then, take the tire at 3 and 9 and shake it. And wiggling would suggest tie rods, idler, or pitman need to be replaced, but most probably the rods because they are the smallest joint
Well, that could also mean bad bearings. If the tire moves at all, the bearings should be the first thing checked. You can get a drop-in replacement hub for most, if not all, vehicles. That way, you won't have to get the bearings pressed.
This post was edited on 8/21/14 at 1:23 pm
Posted on 8/21/14 at 2:28 pm to Spaceman Spiff
Checked/cleaned/replaced everything but coil packs, PCV, and fuel filter, but IMHO, it would be missing harder if one of the former two were bad. It is intermittent also, not consistent.
This post was edited on 8/21/14 at 2:31 pm
Posted on 8/21/14 at 2:35 pm to Hammertime
Heck if I know. If your last choices don't work, then I am not sure. Have you checked any auto forums or posted a question?
Posted on 8/21/14 at 2:50 pm to Spaceman Spiff
Nope, just going through usual tune-up stuff and process of elimination
Posted on 8/22/14 at 11:42 am to Hammertime
Well, so after Chevy selling me an inline fuel filter and a PCV valve, I discover that the PCV valve cannot be replaced and that the fuel filter is actually the type that is on the pump. Why the frick would they sell me that shite? 
Looks like I'm back to square one on diagnosing the miss at idle
Looks like I'm back to square one on diagnosing the miss at idle
Posted on 8/22/14 at 12:06 pm to Hammertime
You can take that back, eh?
Posted on 8/22/14 at 12:27 pm to Hammertime
You da man HT. I'll continue to pay to play.
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