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re: Build the Best Gaming PC Your Money Can Buy: A Detailed Guide (Updated Sep 2014)

Posted on 9/29/13 at 2:13 am to
Posted by ILikeLSUToo
Central, LA
Member since Jan 2008
18018 posts
Posted on 9/29/13 at 2:13 am to
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++++ALERT: You are reading an out-of-date version of the guide and wasting your time. Read the PDF for the most accurate up-to-date info.It's best to download the PDF and use a proper PDF reader. Google's formatting of PDFs breaks all of the links. Link to directly download the PDF. I have stopped updating the text in the thread because the forum's limited code makes it far too time-consuming to change images and add text.++++
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====///====My Motherboard Picks====\\\====
$1,000 budget—ASRock Z87 Extreme3
Why the Z87 Extreme3: Since the CPU pick was a 4770K, we must, of course, go with socket 1150 and Z87 chipset. At the time of this writing, this motherboard was around $130, making it the cheapest Z87 motherboard that supports both Crossfire and SLI. It also has 6 SATA 6Gbps ports, decent audio chip, Intel Gigabit LAN chip, 4 USB 3.0 and 2 USB 2.0 ports, onboard headers for extra USB 3.0 and 2.0, a PS/2 port for good measure, and 8 power phases. All in all, it’s a well-rounded board with no superficial features that bloat the price.

$800 budget—ASRock 990FX Extreme3
Why the 990FX Extreme3: At this budget, we have room for a 990FX chipset with PCIe 2.0 x16/x16 support and better overclocking stability. And yes, it’s an ASRock again. I know it smells like bias, but at the time of this writing, this board was literally the cheapest 990FX board available. It supports SLI and Crossfire and has 2 USB 3.0 and 6 USB 2.0 ports, 5 SATA 6Gbps ports, 1 eSATA 6Gbps port, Broadcom Gigabit LAN, headers for extra USB 2.0, 2 PS/2 ports, and the same audio chip as its Z87 equivalent. A couple of shortfalls for this motherboard include lack of onboard USB 3.0 headers and only 4 power phases. The first issue can be solved with a cheap USB 3.0 card, while the other will require a different motherboard. The ASRock uses high quality voltage regulators, so mild/moderate overclocking shouldn’t be an issue. If it’s important to you, an extra $20 will get you the Extreme4, with twice as many power phases, 2 extra SATA 6Gbps ports, and onboard USB 3.0 headers.

$600 budget—MSI 970A-G46
Why the 970A-G46: I struggled between choosing a barebones cheap 970 motherboard vs. a 990FX board, as I made as many concessions as I could on other components so that the budget could accommodate the best graphics card possible. What I decided was that in lower budget systems such as this one, how it performs in games right now is more important than future-proofing. As you’ll see when all the part recommendations are compiled and presented at the end of this guide, the $600 build is really just a slightly scaled down version of the $800 build, replacing some convenient “enhanceability” in favor of functionality.

While its power phase design is at the low end, it is not as crippling of an issue with the 6300, which has a 95W TDP. This board does support 125W TDP CPUs, so the phase design should give you a little more overclocking headroom than a barebones no-frills 970 board. It’s also one of the very few 970 chipset boards that support an x8/x8 SLI/Crossfire setup. In addition, you get 2 USB 3.0 and 6 USB 2.0 ports, 6 SATA 6Gbps ports, a PS/2 port, the same audio chip as the two boards above, and onboard headers for USB 2.0. Not a bad motherboard for $80.

This post was edited on 3/20/14 at 3:37 pm
Posted by ILikeLSUToo
Central, LA
Member since Jan 2008
18018 posts
Posted on 9/29/13 at 2:13 am to
------------------------
++++ALERT: You are reading an out-of-date version of the guide and wasting your time. Read the PDF for the most accurate up-to-date info.It's best to download the PDF and use a proper PDF reader. Google's formatting of PDFs breaks all of the links. Link to directly download the PDF. I have stopped updating the text in the thread because the forum's limited code makes it far too time-consuming to change images and add text.++++
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The Power Supply Unit (PSU)

The power supply unit is that metal box that converts alternating current from your electronic outlet to the direct current needed by your PC.


A standard ATX PSU

It doesn’t make your computer any faster, so all you really need to do is find a cheap one with enough wattage, right?

Nope. Choosing a PSU is much more fun than that. An insufficient PSU can cause stability problems. A bad PSU can kill your components. This part of the process is important, and should be treated as such. Here’s what you need to know.

====///====Trusted PSU Brands====\\\====
Knowing what brands are good and which ones to avoid is the biggest hurdle of this whole process. There are dozens of brands out there, with several tiers of quality within each brand. Sorting through all those brands is laborious, and mostly an exercise in futility since quite a few brands sell power supplies made by the same manufacturer. There’s an incredible disparity in quality between lowest- and highest-end PSUs, so the easiest thing to do is rely on the opinions of experts and enthusiasts with more resources and years of experience devoted to testing PSUs.

Because of the vast amount of PSU brands and models at various price points, brand bias has become a necessary evil. The PC enthusiast community has more or less reached a consensus on the PSU brands that are considered “fully trusted.” The common top names you’ll find are:
> Antec
> Corsair
> Enermax
> PC Power & Cooling
> Seasonic
> Silverstone
> XFX

This doesn’t tell the whole story, however. As I said, some of these brands use different manufacturers depending on the model, so it’s not enough to choose the cheapest of the above brands that meets your needs. To get a clearer view of the models to look for, and which to avoid, refer to this well-researched post that places PSU brands/models into various tiers: PSU Tiered List. The top tier lists include a few brands that I did not put in the list above, simply because they aren’t as common or because it’s a brand with more “bad” models than good ones. The above brands are considered “safe”—and most importantly, none of these brands have PSU models in the lower tier categories.

As you’ll see in the tiered lists, there are other brands that have quite a few good models, but require a little more research to be sure it’s not from a low-quality manufacturer (the tier list is helpful in that regard). These “partially trusted” brands include:
> Cooler Master
> Cougar
> Kingwin
> OCZ
> Rosewill
> Thermaltake

Yes, some people will argue to add companies to this list and remove some, but once you’ve narrowed the list this far, it becomes a pointless war much like AMD vs. NVIDIA. Anyone who has a strong opinion one way or the other is not a reliable source of information.

In the post linked above, the tiers are described as followed:
quote:

> Tier 1 provides the best quality power, great for overclocking, super high-end systems, and bragging rights. The best of the best. Very good longevity.

> Tier 2 offers very good quality power output, and great reliability. Highly recommended for use in new systems.

> Tier 2b contains units that almost made Tier 2, but may not have quite as good quality output(still very good), or may not last as long. Recommended for systems not expected to run 24/7 for several years.

> Tier 3 power supplies fully meet all ATX requirements for power output quality, but don't have as good of power output quality as above tiers. No reason to replace one if you have one, and they're still good choices for most systems.

> Tier 4 units may have some problems, such as being unable to deliver rated power at higher temperatures, or being slightly out of ATX spec on power output quality. Not recommended to buy except in situations where you will not be stressing it, or expecting it to last for more than a few years. If you have one, you can probably keep using it unless you're experiencing problems.

> Tier 5 power supplies are NOT RECOMMENDED. If you have one, you should strongly consider replacing it ASAP. These can damage your computer, and often cannot put out the power that they're rated for. If a brand name is listed here, then all models from that brand name are considered to be Tier 5, except for those specific models listed above.


Ideally, we want a PSU from tier 1 or tier 2 for top-level stability and longevity. Sometimes, that’s not feasible at certain budgets. The good news is, PSUs in tier 2b and tier 3 are still fine units for lower budget systems, or really in any gaming PC that won’t be subjected to extreme overclocks and a plethora of voltage tweaks that require the utmost stability and zero margin for error. You’ll find many of the same brands across Tiers 1–3, which is an important indicator of reliability, even if the power output quality has been scaled back in favor of marketing at different budget levels.


====///====PSU Quality and Manufacturers====\\\====
If you are curious about what makes a PSU “good” or “bad” (and you should be), read this excellent article at tomshardware.com: LINK

The article discusses the differences in designers, manufacturers, and labels. It also gives a run-down of some of the brands to avoid, discusses quality standards in the individual components of a PSU, and shows you how to identify manufacturer information about your PSU. The article also provides a giant list of all the PSU brands and who manufacturers them. It’s interesting that some of the popular brands on the market get their PSUs from several different manufacturers.

That list, as a whole, is not useful unless you happen to be familiar with the quality standards of each and every one of these manufacturers. I sure as hell don’t know who Dongguan Zhangmotou is. But if you look at some of the brands that have notoriety (either as good or bad), you can start to figure out the “who’s who” among a handful of companies. For example, if you looked up the Tier 1 models from the other link, you’d find that about a third of them are made by Seasonic. Many of the brands made the list for the sole reason that they are made by Seasonic, as it’s one of the most reputable manufacturers of PSUs. Other common manufacturers of Tier 1 brands include Enermax and Delta.
This post was edited on 3/20/14 at 3:37 pm
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