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Started By
Message
re: Changing ball joints on an early 90's Z71
Posted on 10/9/12 at 8:52 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Posted on 10/9/12 at 8:52 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
could I get it out with a wheel puller?
i knock out with hammer.
do u mean get the bj out the spindle or the arm...
knock out of a arm on lower and unbolt upper..
to remove from spindle .. take off nut and knock the shite out of the side of the spindle where the stud goes through. the impact will make the tapered stud come loose
This post was edited on 10/9/12 at 8:55 pm
1
Posted on 10/9/12 at 8:54 pm to beauxgy
quote:
. Swap out the entire control arms from rockauto.com.
the lower control arm aint cheap.
and if theve allready been replaced on the uppers the ball joints just unbolt
This post was edited on 10/9/12 at 8:56 pm
Posted on 10/9/12 at 8:55 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
there are upper and lower ball joints, and you never specified which were bad. It is labor stupid to only change out upper and not lower or vice versa. Especially on a car that is an antique. Ask any mechanic. I've been there and done that on 70's A-body cars and early to mid 90 GMs.
Find and join a website of current owners of the same car.
Find and join a website of current owners of the same car.
Posted on 10/9/12 at 8:55 pm to greasemonkey
Was talking about getting it out the spindle. Wasn't sure if beating the hell out of it was the prefered method. I'm 100% for using a hammer wherever possible 
Can I also separate the bj from the control arm with a hammer?
I hate not having the right tools to do stuff.
Can I also separate the bj from the control arm with a hammer?
I hate not having the right tools to do stuff.
Posted on 10/9/12 at 8:56 pm to beauxgy
quote:
and you never specified which were bad
All four of them are shot
ETA: Lemme rephrase that. I am changing all four.
ETAagin: And tie rod ends while I have all that shite off. And possibly idler/pittman arm.
The entire front end is dogged out.
This post was edited on 10/9/12 at 8:57 pm
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:00 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Was talking about getting it out the spindle.
hit the side of spindle. theres a knot sticking out, turn wheel to one side and knock the shite out of it.
quote:
Can I also separate the bj from the control arm with a hammer?
the lower you can. just remove grease fitting first
I would go to autozone and rent a bj press. they refund the money when you bring it back..
get moog parts for everything def dont buy oreillys cheap brand they wont last a couple months
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:01 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
If it were mine and I was keeping it, I would change all that shiate out if you are doing it yourself and saving on labor. Not a job you want to revisit, and you will need an alignment each time.
Get Moog , Dorman, Duralast or GM parts if available. Avoid Asian made parts at all cost.
I'm an old fart, I know these things
Get Moog , Dorman, Duralast or GM parts if available. Avoid Asian made parts at all cost.
I'm an old fart, I know these things
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:04 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
ETAagin: And tie rod ends while I have all that shite off.
will need alignment
quote:
And possibly idler/pittman arm.
need a pitman puller and unbolt gear box from frame with 21mm. i think nut that holds pitman is a 36mm or 1 1/8"
quote:
idler/pittman arm
make sure to get with grease fittings and grease with lucas red and tacky or lucas hevy duty
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:05 pm to beauxgy
quote:
If it were mine and I was keeping it, I would change all that shiate out if you are doing it yourself and saving on labor. Not a job you want to revisit, and you will need an alignment each time.
Get Moog , Dorman, Duralast or GM parts if available. Avoid Asian made parts at all cost.
this..
dorman and moog arent what they use to be though
better than house brand by far
This post was edited on 10/9/12 at 9:07 pm
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:08 pm to greasemonkey
quote:
dorman and moog arent what they use to be though
true,they put different parts in the same boxes all the time it pays to find a forum so you can learn from suckas who can point you in the right direction based on their mistakes!!!
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:09 pm to greasemonkey
dont let the caliper just hang by the brake hose..
use a coat hanger or bailing wire [a must for any country boy] to hang it. it can damage hose
use a coat hanger or bailing wire [a must for any country boy] to hang it. it can damage hose
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:11 pm to beauxgy
quote:
true,they put different parts in the same boxes all the time it pays to find a forum so you can learn from suckas who can point you in the right direction based on their mistakes!!!
I change about 2 set a week on op's type truck..lifted and all..
oreillys has worst parts ever!!
duralast from autozone seem o be pretty good.
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:16 pm to greasemonkey
he might find NOS parts on ebay under the right search strategy.
How many hp/tq does this thing have by the way? Is is a v8? rear wheel drive?
pics?
damn, just realized we are talking about a truck!! Same principles apply, but forget the pics, lol, thought it was camaro or vette when I saw Z cuz that's when I stopped reading, damnEd OB, shoulda known
How many hp/tq does this thing have by the way? Is is a v8? rear wheel drive?
pics?
damn, just realized we are talking about a truck!! Same principles apply, but forget the pics, lol, thought it was camaro or vette when I saw Z cuz that's when I stopped reading, damnEd OB, shoulda known
This post was edited on 10/9/12 at 9:18 pm
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:16 pm to greasemonkey
quote:
oreillys has worst parts ever!!
duralast from autozone seem o be pretty good.
I've always heard the opposite...
I was planning on getting GM parts anyway. Spend the money I saved on labor on good parts.
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:19 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
quote:
oreillys has worst parts ever!!
duralast from autozone seem o be pretty good.
I've always heard the opposite...
I was planning on getting GM parts anyway. Spend the money I saved on labor on good parts.
its there house brand stuff that sucks.had 2 sets of ball joints not last 2 months and countless alternators,starters, and ac comp new and reman...
I would buy moog unless I could get dealer cost..
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:21 pm to greasemonkey
I dont recommend trying without a ball joint press to install the lowers. might could do with huge c clamp
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:21 pm to greasemonkey
quote:
I would buy moog unless I could get dealer cost..
Ten four. Will do.
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:23 pm to greasemonkey
quote:
I dont recommend trying without a ball joint press to install the lowers
I'll rent one.
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:25 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
gmpartsdirect.com is good if you are patient
Posted on 10/9/12 at 9:26 pm to beauxgy
I'm mildly patient at best. Definitely wanna do it right though.
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