re: Covington / Mandeville Restaurants - mid 1970s

I don't get the humor either. I thought La Provence opened in the 70s, but I'm not sure. I vaguely remember reading it in Besh's My New Orleans cookbook. Of course, Besh didn't own it at the time.

Bad taste to laugh at one of the most respected Food Board writers' question.

Here's what Fitzmorris has to say:

Chris Kerageorgiou--Greek-heritage native of the south of France--came to New Orleans in the 1960s after cooking around the world. After years as the maitre d' at the Royal Orleans Hotel, he ignored all advice in 1972 and opened his own restaurant in the woods near Lacombe. The North Shore population was much smaller and less inclined to fine dining than it is now. Chris's food was so good that La Provence drew avid eaters from both shores. After battling Katrina and a health problem that would kill him within a year, Chris sold the restaurant to his former sous chef, John Besh. Besh turned the expansive premises into a small farm, raising chickens, pigs, goats, vegetables, and herbs. He brought in a series of excellent chef-partners, each of whom cooked brilliantly. Problem was, regular customers were put off by the changes. In early 2009, Besh brought in Chef Erik Loos, who found the groove.