- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: Home Brewing: The Brewing shall Commence Monday or Tuesday
Posted on 4/8/11 at 9:46 am to Grilled Bald Eagle
Posted on 4/8/11 at 9:46 am to Grilled Bald Eagle
For your stockpot, I would suggest not skimping on a thin bottom pot. A thick quality bottom will help prevent scorching to a degree.
2
Posted on 4/8/11 at 9:50 am to Boudreaux35
A program would work well 2 for the spreadsheet.
When i boil my water to put my yeast in, do i need a new pot, or can i use one that i have and just clean and sanitize it?
When i boil my water to put my yeast in, do i need a new pot, or can i use one that i have and just clean and sanitize it?
Posted on 4/8/11 at 9:52 am to BugAC
To start your yeast, you need to cool the boiled water anyway. I usually boil, pour into a sanitized large jar that seals, then cool in an ice bath down to 70 degs.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 9:58 am to BugAC
BeerSmith is a good program that will keep track of everything and more. Has a free trial.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:00 am to BugAC
quote:
Also, for my yeast starter, can i use a magna lite pot that I already have and just clean and sanitize it, or do i need to buy a new one?
Absolute best thing you can use (in my experience) is a 1L or 2L erlenmeyer flask with a piece of aluminum foil pressed lightly over the top. If I didn't have my flasks, I'd probably go with a glass jar with the same foil pressed on top.
Glass is so much easier to clean and sanitize than any metal pot will be - and a yeast starter is the one time you REALLY don't want to take a shortcut with sanitizing properly.
BTW, good for you for going with a yeast starter first time out.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:02 am to Boudreaux35
quote:
A thick quality bottom will help prevent scorching to a degree.
If he can only afford a cheap pot for now, he can minimize scorching by cutting the fire off when he adds his extract, stirring until its all dissolved, and then firing up the burner again. Most scorching I've run into is a result of liquid extract falling to the bottom of the pot and getting burned.
This post was edited on 4/8/11 at 10:05 am
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:11 am to Grilled Bald Eagle
quote:
If he can only afford a cheap pot for now, he can minimize scorching by cutting the fire off when he adds his extract, stirring until its all dissolved, and then firing up the burner again. Most scorching I've run into is a result of liquid extract falling to the bottom of the pot and getting burned.
I've read that also. Will a 20 qt aluminum boiling pot work for my stockpot? Or is it too thin?
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:16 am to BugAC
As long as you are stirring it the thickness doesnt really matter. Many use a canning pot for extract since its cheap. 20qt is more than big enough for extract. for AG you would want no less than 36qt.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:17 am to BugAC
I agree about turning fire off when adding anything really. Liquid extract will sink and scorch. Dry has a slightly less chance, but still may. Hops will foam up like a mf'er and it is much easier to control with the fire off.
Aluminum will work. Some people CLAIM it will promote off tastes but nobody seems to be able to prove it. Just remember to cut the fire.
Aluminum will work. Some people CLAIM it will promote off tastes but nobody seems to be able to prove it. Just remember to cut the fire.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:28 am to Catman88
quote:
for AG you would want no less than 36qt.
All grain is where you are mashing your own malts correct? I haven't gotten to that section of the book yet. I'm assuming also, that is why most people use oustside burners for the bigger pot.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:28 am to Boudreaux35
quote:
Hops will foam up like a mf'er
Yeah, this is another one of those things to be wary of - adding hops will cause the wort to foam up and (likely) overflow the pot. You can keep it to a minimum by making sure you've got a good bit of headspace in your pot, controlling your temp, and keeping a spray bottle filled with water around. If the foam gets too high, knock it down with a few mists of cool water.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:29 am to Boudreaux35
quote:
CLAIM it will promote off tastes but nobody seems to be able to prove it. Just remember to cut the fire.
everywhere i've read, says that Stainless is much easier to clean, but down the road, certain buildups could happen that would require more maintenance. Aluminum seems to be the way to go when starting out.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:30 am to BugAC
quote:
everywhere i've read, says that Stainless is much easier to clean, but down the road, certain buildups could happen that would require more maintenance. Aluminum seems to be the way to go when starting out.
FWIW, I used aluminum exclusively until I started using a converted keg as my brewpot.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:34 am to Grilled Bald Eagle
quote:
FWIW, I used aluminum exclusively until I started using a converted keg as my brewpot.
Got ya.
Also, when yall are talking about ball valves and false bottoms, does that have to do with AG brewing?
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:43 am to Catman88
quote:
BeerSmith is a good program that will keep track of everything and more. Has a free trial.
BeerSmith is probably the most popular out there. There are several free programs that are pretty damn decent also.
Brewtarget is a good "open source" program. I have used an online app call Beer Calculus before. It has some nice features and lets you keep notes which are accessible from anywhere.
There is another online app called "brewernauts" that looks promising but I haven't tried it out yet.
I STRONGLY suggest, that since you are brewing your first batch, don't get all confused trying to learn software at the same time. On brew day, get yourself a blank sheet of paper and a pencil and WRITE what you do, every step, every time you take a temp. Later on, while you're waiting for fermentation, you can play with different software apps with that data and see which one you like.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 10:57 am to BugAC
quote:
Also, when yall are talking about ball valves and false bottoms, does that have to do with AG brewing?
The ball valve is just a valve that you'd install in your mash tun and/or brewpot to allow you to drain from the bottom of the container.
The false bottom is something you'd put into the bottom of a cylindrical mash tun to help keep spent grains from exiting the container when you're lautering.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 11:03 am to Boudreaux35
quote:
There are several free programs that are pretty damn decent also.
I use Promash. It has a free trial and then cost about $20.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 11:17 am to BugAC
Honestly I wish I had the ball valve on my pot when I did extract as well.. You can put a ss screen over it (inside) to act as a filter and you dont need to pick the whole pot up or use a pitcher to dump it in batches through the funnel (also not needed). You do have to make sure to aerate the wort though.
Posted on 4/8/11 at 11:33 am to Catman88
quote:
You do have to make sure to aerate the wort though.
That part is easy (especially with a bucket) - just shake the bejesus out of the fermenter once you've pitched the yeast.
I suppose with a conical you don't have that option though. Do you aerate coming out of your brewpot or do you use an aeration system?
Posted on 4/8/11 at 12:35 pm to Grilled Bald Eagle
coming out of the brew pot. I just make sure there is aggitation. I generally get a nice foam on top before I shut the conical.
Page 5 of 7
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News