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re: DIY Landscaping - Anyone here done it?
Posted on 10/12/23 at 8:06 am to Daponch
Posted on 10/12/23 at 8:06 am to Daponch
quote:structural fill (red clay) is needed for the building pad and usually runs a few feet past the slab. It’s terrible for planting but it ain’t cheap LOL
Builders use cheap fill soil good for compaction which works for their construction needs but is terrible for plants
what IS cheap is the “bed mix” that residential landscapers throw on top of that structural fill and then stick tiny plants into. Unfortunately in a recent construction situation the best remedy for that situation is time, organics and elbow grease
2
Posted on 10/12/23 at 8:13 am to cgrand
quote:
Unfortunately in a recent construction situation the best remedy for that situation is time, organics and elbow grease
right, which is why i tilled the top layer of existing dirt and plan on tilling in organics. i don't want loose planting soil sitting on top of rock hard compacted construction fill.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 9:52 am to WeagleEagle
quote:
The dwarf yaupon will eventually will be huge.
Show me the hedge that isn't well kept and I'll show you a man who doesn't need to have hedges
Posted on 10/12/23 at 10:34 am to poochie
quote:
Didn’t cover in first post but let’s talk where to purchase plants. The big wholesale nursery’s like Doug young are half the price of local places. Plus I want to buy about 60-80 sweet viburnum to plant along my property line out back. Not afraid to travel to buy in bulk. Has anyone used these type of places?
Yes - I bought all my planting material from Doug Young Nursery, Bobby Young Nursery and Holloway Young nursery in Forest Hill. 1/3 the cost of retail garden center plus 10% (sales tax as it’s a retail sale to you). As I recall Hollaway-Young nursery was more like 1/2 the cost of a retail garden center. I bought the trees I planted from Bobby Young Nursery.
quote:
Also, tell me more about hiring a landscape architect. What’s that cost? How does that work? Could they do a master plan for my whole property? I’m a do’er, show me the finished plan and I can execute. But I’m not a landscape designer for sure.
Well in my case, and this was a decade ago, my close friend’s son, who I’ve known all of his life, is a Landscape Architect developed the landscape for me - the cost was $500 though I suspect he under-charged me. He interviewed me to see what I liked, didn’t like, etc and developed the plan which I followed - I did 100% of implementation. I can’t emphasize enough to hire a professional to develop the plan for you - you are adding value and aesthetics to your property. For the work, effort and expense, even doing it yourself, get it right the first time.
Zappas Stash, if he enters this thread is an LSU graduated Landscape architect, but works in Dallas, can provide more insight as to cost, etc. and what you could expect from that service but if I recall correctly, he stated at one point he charged perhaps $2K or so for basic residential plan in the Dallas area. But yes - they can develop a master plan for your entire property. That is what I had done. I focused on completing the front and side yards, then came back a few years later and completed the backyard, but I had the plan already in place.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 10:38 am to poochie
quote:
I have underground drainage from my gutters, under the beds, and out into the yard. Plus a pretty good slope away from the house.
Then you’ll be fine - as long as the beds don’t hold water for long periods of time and drain freely. Several inches above grade will be fine, just account for settling of the beds once they are built and planted.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 11:03 am to CrawDude
Thanks gang. Lots of great info here.
A few more questions:
On settling, what do you think, 50%?
Also, me about mulch. Don’t want to break the bank but fine spending more than the minimum on the cheapest stuff.
A few more questions:
On settling, what do you think, 50%?
Also, me about mulch. Don’t want to break the bank but fine spending more than the minimum on the cheapest stuff.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 12:22 pm to poochie
quote:
On settling, what do you think, 50%?
I’d guess about 1/3 to 1/2 after a couple years. You’ll need to do a a little fill between plants after several + years. The plants won’t settle much as roots anchor them but the surrounding areas will - remember garden soil/mix is all organic matter - it decomposes over time.
quote:
Also, me about mulch. Don’t want to break the bank but fine spending more than the minimum on the cheapest stuff.
You’ll get many different opinions, but remember just about any mulch is better than no mulch. I personally use and like pine straw, and most professionals whose brain I pick seem to favor it as well. Some don’t like the fact it’s color disappears but dyed pine straw is available - I’ve not used it so can’t comment on how well it retains its color. That is less important as the plants grow and fill in as the only mulch you may see is at the landscape bed margins.
Pine straw needs to be added yearly, and some add it twice a year, more so for aesthetics. Being a non-wood product you need not worry about potential termite issues associate with wood mulches.
This post was edited on 10/12/23 at 12:24 pm
Posted on 10/12/23 at 12:32 pm to poochie
Rent a Dingo or Bobcat MT. Get dirt delivered and place with machine. Save.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 2:24 pm to poochie
quote:
Also, tell me more about hiring a landscape architect. What’s that cost? How does that work? Could they do a master plan for my whole property? I’m a do’er, show me the finished plan and I can execute. But I’m not a landscape designer for sure.
Not sure of the cost but I believe Green Acres will do this and does a pretty good job in design. Someone in my neighborhood used them for design and build and they did an excellent job. 4 or 5 houses up from me if you want to go ride and see it. They had a small sign in the flower bed but not sure if it's there anymore. The 5th house from the front just had complete landscaping put in and it looks amazing. Not sure who did it but I can find out if you'd like.
Bookmarked this thread as we will be looking at doing the same in the coming few years. I'll be sure to pick your brain when the time comes.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 6:48 pm to cgrand
I’m aware of the benefits of the red clay for construction. Lots of guys use red clay for the whole site because of convenience. Native soil or strippings is a little more expensive but is way better away from the structures. Red clay and native soil is in the $25-$30 range delivered in bulk. Garden soil is about $64 per yard. Some guys use the mini nugget soil that is really for nurseries for their pots. It’s terrible for building a landscape bed
Posted on 10/12/23 at 6:49 pm to poochie
Pine straw is the best mulch if you don’t mind the look
Posted on 10/12/23 at 8:31 pm to Daponch
I like the look of pine straw mulch. How does that work? Is it just pine needles? I assume people sell that locally in bulk? Is that something that’s replaced every year?
When replacing do you pull the old mulch out and install new?
When replacing do you pull the old mulch out and install new?
Posted on 10/12/23 at 9:00 pm to poochie
Long leaf pine straw is the best. You don’t have to remove the old to add new. It’s best to install heavy in the spring and light in the fall if you want a fresh look for the holidays. Pine straw can be purchased in square bales or rolled bales. Rolled is the most cost effective
Posted on 10/13/23 at 7:37 am to poochie
I’m planning on DIY landscaping for our new construction which should be completed late spring/early summer next year. After final grading with topsoil, I’m planning on marking the bed locations then topping with free compost from the local landfill. Probably not the best, but it’s better than what is currently there and it’s free. I’ll just let the compost sit and decompose a bit before planting and mulching. I’ll spray weeds/grasses that come up before planting. House pad is 32” above natural grade, so I’ll grade with fill dirt to reduce the slope angle away from the house then top that with several inches of topsoil.
Posted on 10/13/23 at 7:51 am to poochie
Here to chime in on the garden soil. Our home's main garden's had settled quite a bit over the years and we did a complete gut on one of them. Added 4 yds to main garden and spread two yards to the other gardens. We built the main garden up about 18" at the peak and in approximately 6 months it has settled at least 6 inches, maybe a few more. YMMV
Posted on 10/14/23 at 8:01 am to jmon
Good garden soil has a lot of organic matter that will break down and cause subsidence. I usually add about 4-6 inches of garden soil over the top. I either use native soil as a base if it is going to be a raised bed or some suppliers sell a garden soil/native soil mix that works great as a base that can be finished off with garden soil as needed
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