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Started By
Message
Thoughts on this car amplifier
Posted on 4/14/15 at 6:51 pm
Posted on 4/14/15 at 6:51 pm
Im in the market for a car amplifier and I ran across this Lanzar HTG888 Heritage Series 5000 Watt 8-Channel
Mosfet Amplifier. Is this a decent amp overall or does anyone know of a better amp in a close price range?
I'm not trying to build a greatest system ever at the moment (just trying to power two 250 RMS 10 inch subwoofers) but I do want an amp with power in case I ever want to upgrade.
Mosfet Amplifier. Is this a decent amp overall or does anyone know of a better amp in a close price range?
I'm not trying to build a greatest system ever at the moment (just trying to power two 250 RMS 10 inch subwoofers) but I do want an amp with power in case I ever want to upgrade.
7
Posted on 4/14/15 at 7:11 pm to hugo_boss
See if CAD can sort through the reviews and ratings for you.
Posted on 4/14/15 at 7:28 pm to hugo_boss
That thing isn't going to put out nearly that much power.
If you're just looking to power a pair of subs, get a single channel class D amp. What is your subs impedance? And if you're not powering your midrange speakers, be prepared to have your music drowned out.
If you're just looking to power a pair of subs, get a single channel class D amp. What is your subs impedance? And if you're not powering your midrange speakers, be prepared to have your music drowned out.
Posted on 4/14/15 at 7:37 pm to THRILLHO
Oh I know it's not. That's why I looked for something way beyond what I need because amps rarely put out near what they are advertised.
I still learning at this but I thought mono channel amps could only power one sub.Both are 150 RMS at 4 ohms.
I still learning at this but I thought mono channel amps could only power one sub.Both are 150 RMS at 4 ohms.
Posted on 4/14/15 at 7:45 pm to hugo_boss
2000WRMS total for $170? bullshite ratings
if 2000WRMS is less than $500 i wouldn't fool with it
get a 4 channel for the door speakers and a monoblock for the subwoofer
if 2000WRMS is less than $500 i wouldn't fool with it
get a 4 channel for the door speakers and a monoblock for the subwoofer
Posted on 4/14/15 at 8:01 pm to hugo_boss
Will sounds sweet on that low riding s-10 with blue neons..
Posted on 4/14/15 at 8:14 pm to DVinBR
Yeah I never believed it would get near what is stated. If I could get 1000 true wattage out of it for that price then I would be happy because I can't seem to find anything else that truly puts out that power for that price.
Posted on 4/14/15 at 8:43 pm to hugo_boss
quote:
I still learning at this but I thought mono channel amps could only power one sub.Both are 150 RMS at 4 ohms.
There are current limits (though the amps will list the limits by impedance). This impedance limit is the only thing you have to worry about. One audio channel only means that it cannot produce a stereo output. This is insignificant at lower frequencies.
Get this:
LINK
and wire the subs in parallel, giving you a 2ohm load. It will save you $60, be quite a bit more efficient than the amp you listed, and may very well put out more power than the one you listed.
And, again, if you aren't powering your midrange speakers, you are absolutely going to drown them out.
This post was edited on 4/14/15 at 8:47 pm
Posted on 4/14/15 at 11:26 pm to THRILLHO
Appreciate the advice. I will definitely check out the amp. It seems perfect. I'll start looking for another ampto power the mids.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 2:21 am to hugo_boss
Look for a McIntosh on the used market--they are bullet proof...
Posted on 4/15/15 at 8:13 am to hugo_boss
POS
Get one good 10 and a good class D amp, and it'll sound better than that. I'd be surprised if that amp put out 750w and lasted longer than 6 months. It's so big because they put zero effort into designing it properly or using the correct materials to dissipate heat.
There are also 5 channel amplifiers now that'll power 4 doors and a sub pretty well. Good ones are expensive though.
For my sub amp, I have an older MTX 250d that came with a bench test sheet saying it put out 349w. I have seen them go up to 450w in the right circumstances. I have that hooked up to a 6.5 rated at 50rms, but it actually takes around 100w to sound perfect. Your sound is not so much price, but quality. That sub/amp setup could be had for $150
Get one good 10 and a good class D amp, and it'll sound better than that. I'd be surprised if that amp put out 750w and lasted longer than 6 months. It's so big because they put zero effort into designing it properly or using the correct materials to dissipate heat.
There are also 5 channel amplifiers now that'll power 4 doors and a sub pretty well. Good ones are expensive though.
For my sub amp, I have an older MTX 250d that came with a bench test sheet saying it put out 349w. I have seen them go up to 450w in the right circumstances. I have that hooked up to a 6.5 rated at 50rms, but it actually takes around 100w to sound perfect. Your sound is not so much price, but quality. That sub/amp setup could be had for $150
Posted on 4/15/15 at 10:57 am to hugo_boss
+
+
+
=PROFIT
Posted on 4/15/15 at 4:26 pm to THRILLHO
Any walk through on connecting door speakers to an amp? I should probably hire a professional but I enjoy doing things like this myself.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 4:30 pm to hugo_boss
That's going to be different for every vehicle. Something you're going to have to find via google, unless you happen to own a 95 Civic, in which case I can help.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 7:54 pm to hugo_boss
It is a pain in the arse if you do it correctly. Took me an entire day, and I'm pretty fricking handy. I also had to modify 4 stock speaker brackets, make spacers for two of them, and enlarge the A-pillar tweeter holes. Started at 7 am and finished at 10pm
Basically this:
Run power/ground to amp
Run remote wire from CD player
Run RCA wires (either 1 or 2 pair) from CD player
Run speaker wires from amp to all door speakers
The running of the speaker wires is what takes so long. You basically pull out most of your interior to do it. If you are running a sub amp also, get a distribution block for the + and -, and splice the remote wires together.
Installing just a sub amp takes about two hours
Basically this:
Run power/ground to amp
Run remote wire from CD player
Run RCA wires (either 1 or 2 pair) from CD player
Run speaker wires from amp to all door speakers
The running of the speaker wires is what takes so long. You basically pull out most of your interior to do it. If you are running a sub amp also, get a distribution block for the + and -, and splice the remote wires together.
Installing just a sub amp takes about two hours
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