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Started By
Message
OB outboard mechanics - Yamaha 25
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:05 pm
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:05 pm
Brought the boat to a local mechanic for him to clean out the carbs and get it ready. There was a small miss in the motor and when I would put a full load on it, the motor would bog down. It always cranks and idles like a champ.
The mechanic told me the "electric packs" needed to be replaced and that it would be cheaper to buy a new motor.
What are electric packs and how much do they cost?
The mechanic told me the "electric packs" needed to be replaced and that it would be cheaper to buy a new motor.
What are electric packs and how much do they cost?
6
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:06 pm to CalcasieuTiger
Almost sounds like an air leak to me. I have a 25 Johnson that does that...starts and idles fine, runs fine for about a minute under throttle, then bogs down. (drastically) I kill it, start it right back up, and it does the same.
I may be misunderstanding your description though. Does your run fine for a minute before bogging down? I mean at full throttle in gear run fine?
I may be misunderstanding your description though. Does your run fine for a minute before bogging down? I mean at full throttle in gear run fine?
This post was edited on 4/16/14 at 2:08 pm
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:07 pm to CalcasieuTiger
quote:
outboard mechanics
quote:
Yamaha
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:08 pm to Fishhead
quote:
Fishhead
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:08 pm to AlxTgr
Well what do you expect? If it were a merc it would have exploded.
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:09 pm to Fishhead
quote:
Fishhead
Have you fixed the air leak?
How did you do it?
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:13 pm to CalcasieuTiger
No, not yet. I just bought a little skiff that has a 15, runs 23 with the 15 on it. I want to get the 25 going and see what it'll do with it, as the boat is rated for a 30. But just haven't fooled with it.
I personally think it's a leak where the fuel hose connects to the motor...on the motor side. The male connectors.
Here's the new (to me) skiff...
I personally think it's a leak where the fuel hose connects to the motor...on the motor side. The male connectors.
Here's the new (to me) skiff...
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:18 pm to TheDrunkenTigah
quote:So much anger.
Well what do you expect? If it were a merc it would have exploded.
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:19 pm to Fishhead
That's a sweet little boat 
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:21 pm to CalcasieuTiger
You're mechanic appears to be smoking crack. What year is the engine? How long has it been acting up? Will it get the boat on plane?
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:22 pm to Fishhead
quote:
I personally think it's a leak where the fuel hose connects to the motor...on the motor side. The male connectors.
Run it with cowling off sprayin carb cleaner on crankcase mating area to find leak. RPMs will increase if you spray carb cleaner on a leaking area.
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:25 pm to CalcasieuTiger
Take the carbs off clean them yourself they are very simple
Get a new mechanic.
Get a new mechanic.
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:26 pm to TexasTiger01
quote:
You're mechanic appears to be smoking crack. What year is the engine? How long has it been acting up? Will it get the boat on plane?
I hope you're right.
85'
a year
will not get on plane
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:30 pm to CalcasieuTiger
he is talking about a power pack- $150-200ish
or the coils, $60 per coil. im guessing
Im thinking its gas related. clogged fuel filter, probably the screen inside the carb, allows enough gas to idle , but not to run wide open. Open up the carb and look at the screens. if thats not it then-
*pull one plug wires off, run- and remember how it sounds,
*then pull the other off and put back the first. run- remember the sound.
This should be a good indicator on which cylinder it is.
if it runs the same each way, then it is probably fuel related because there is only one carb supplying the 2 cylinders.
and thats my 2 cents
or the coils, $60 per coil. im guessing
Im thinking its gas related. clogged fuel filter, probably the screen inside the carb, allows enough gas to idle , but not to run wide open. Open up the carb and look at the screens. if thats not it then-
*pull one plug wires off, run- and remember how it sounds,
*then pull the other off and put back the first. run- remember the sound.
This should be a good indicator on which cylinder it is.
if it runs the same each way, then it is probably fuel related because there is only one carb supplying the 2 cylinders.
and thats my 2 cents
This post was edited on 4/16/14 at 2:31 pm
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:31 pm to Elusiveporpi
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:32 pm to CalcasieuTiger
OK, you feel confortable working on it yourself? If so I can walk you through a few test sequences to figure out what is going on.
ETA
Do what he said to ^^^
Part microfishe link with pricing
LINK
ETA
quote:
Elusiveporpi
Do what he said to ^^^
Part microfishe link with pricing
LINK
This post was edited on 4/16/14 at 2:35 pm
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:40 pm to TexasTiger01
I will have someone with me that is more mechanically inclined.
I have no clue what that is or means
quote:
Part microfishe link with pricing
I have no clue what that is or means
Posted on 4/16/14 at 2:51 pm to CalcasieuTiger
Elusiveporpi gave a good rundown of initial checks. I would run on muffs first and make sure you have good spark. You can test for sprak under load by leaving your boat on the trailer and backing down the launch to run.
This is a Micro Fiche
This is a Micro Fiche
Posted on 4/16/14 at 4:52 pm to CalcasieuTiger
quote:Thanks, I think it's gonna be a fun little boat...redfish machine.
That's a sweet little boat
Posted on 4/16/14 at 4:53 pm to TexasTiger01
quote:I'll certainly try it. Thanks.
Run it with cowling off sprayin carb cleaner on crankcase mating area to find leak. RPMs will increase if you spray carb cleaner on a leaking area.
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