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What oil would you use in a 6.0?
Posted on 4/14/14 at 10:03 pm
Posted on 4/14/14 at 10:03 pm
Is Rotella the preferred choice around here?
5
Posted on 4/14/14 at 10:05 pm to geauxcats10
I'd use rotella and the ford filter.
The filter is more important than the oil in this application.
The filter is more important than the oil in this application.
Posted on 4/14/14 at 10:12 pm to geauxcats10
Castrol 20w50. 350,000 miles in one and 576,000 in another.
Posted on 4/14/14 at 10:40 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:There's a reason 75% of people use Rotella. You can get a Motorcraft filter at AutoZone. Get a 5gal bucket for the used oil
I'd use rotella and the ford filter.
Posted on 4/14/14 at 10:42 pm to Hammertime
I would use
a 7.3
a 7.3
Posted on 4/14/14 at 11:11 pm to geauxcats10
Rotella, Delo, OEM...seen enough of those engines apart with lots of miles and zero deposit build up on the crank, rods, wrist pins, oil pump, etc. Modern HDEO's are good and choosing one that meets whatever Ford WSS spec shouldn't be given too much thought. What you really need to worry about is the fuel system and coolant system.
Posted on 4/14/14 at 11:41 pm to Clames
I prefer Delo, I hear rottella is better when using it from brand new. I've had better results with Delo..fwiw
Posted on 4/15/14 at 12:02 am to tankyank13
Both are fine. With the 6.0's the best thing that can be done is use the best oil filter you can. The 6.0's are filter whores. Need a filter before the fuel conditioning module, need a coolant filter (unless the EGR cooler is welded and tuned out and switched to a HD ELC), need a good bypass oil filter. Doing that cures the vast majority of the ills that can plague a 6.0 or 6.4 and pretty much help all light duty diesels.
Posted on 4/15/14 at 12:22 am to Clames
quote:I did restore and restore plus and then went with ELC an external filter. Oil cooler still got clogged up because of the Ford spec gold coolant. They didn't figure out that it needed coolant additive. Those engines are pieces of shite, and there's nothing you can do to stop them from blowing up. Very few people get past 150k without a major issue
HD ELC
Maintenance is paramount, and cut Ford's intervals in half for doing anything. They aren't regular engines and need to be babied big time to survive
Eta: I'd trust a rotary engine over a new diesel
This post was edited on 4/15/14 at 12:29 am
Posted on 4/15/14 at 12:37 am to Hammertime
Kinda but not all of them. The VGT system actually needs you not to baby them to work properly and the rest is just a matter of getting a latter variant with the sorted out HPOP and delivery system and then getting on top of the maintenance and filters. The gold coolant is fine if the EGR cooler is welded and deleted with a tune but the red ELC is a good step up (I run it in my gas engines). Run the ELC long enough and eventually you don't even need the coolant filter. FS2500 oil filter and good oil will cure about half of the injector problems, putting a marine filter in front of the FCM will cure the rest. All that and an ARP stud kit and they can last about 500,000 miles, limit is the valve wear at that point.
Posted on 4/15/14 at 5:26 am to Clames
Screw all that BS. Take my Cummins any day of the week. 
Posted on 4/15/14 at 6:41 am to fishfighter
They can suffer similar problems with cooled EGR and bad fuel. EPA made all light duty diesels maintenance needy compared to earlier models without DPF or egr coolers.
Posted on 4/15/14 at 6:54 am to Clames
6.0 
Posted on 4/15/14 at 7:06 am to Rize
I use Rotella full synthetic with archoil ar9100 in my 6.0. I had major stiction issues with my injectors. Running the archoil with the rotella has completely solved that problem.
Posted on 4/15/14 at 7:40 am to geauxcats10
My neighbor has an 04 6.0 170K - Rotella oil and ford filters and stock motor - No issues
Co-Worker and 05 6.0 around 160K - Rotella Oil / Ford Filter and stock motor - No issues .
They both tell me that maintance is the key with the 6.0's.
They both say if they crater they will just bulletproof them and keep the truck. Will be cheaper than buying new.
Co-Worker and 05 6.0 around 160K - Rotella Oil / Ford Filter and stock motor - No issues .
They both tell me that maintance is the key with the 6.0's.
They both say if they crater they will just bulletproof them and keep the truck. Will be cheaper than buying new.
Posted on 4/15/14 at 7:43 am to Clames
quote:
The VGT system actually needs you not to baby them to work properly
The best 6.0 I've seen hung about 180k without problems. It was used to haul logs and got ran like it was stolen daily.
The 6.0 is made to run and you need to get the EGT's up occasionally. It's made to work and people getting them to use as grocery getters are part of the reason they had so many problems. It can handle work better than it can handle never hitting operating temperature. I'm not saying you should drive you 6.0 like you stole it everywhere you go, but it does need to get worked occasionally to get the turbo cam plate and EGR hot enough to burn the shite out.
Posted on 4/15/14 at 7:43 am to Clames
Bad fuel killed my HPFP and a couple injectors. After that, I started doing fuel filters every oil change and draining the water at the same time. Coolant has been so nice as to flush itself on every engine for the past 20k miles.
After owning a 6.4 and knowing many other people who have owned both 6.0s and 6.4, I feel comfortable saying that no one should expect to hit 150k without a major problem if you just do regular maintenance. You've got to overkill the frick out of it, and pay attention to every single thing while testing every fluid at every interval
After owning a 6.4 and knowing many other people who have owned both 6.0s and 6.4, I feel comfortable saying that no one should expect to hit 150k without a major problem if you just do regular maintenance. You've got to overkill the frick out of it, and pay attention to every single thing while testing every fluid at every interval
Posted on 4/15/14 at 7:48 am to Hammertime
quote:
I feel comfortable saying that no one should expect to hit 150k without a major problem if you just do regular maintenance.
Ehhhh
The 6.0 isn't as bad as it's cracked out to be. The 6.4 is at least as bad or worse than it's cracked out to be.
Posted on 4/15/14 at 8:08 am to geauxcats10
I had a 2007.I used Shell Rotella 5w40 T6 synthetic without issue.Also,make sure you only use the Motorcraft filters.I think the oil filter # is FL2016.You can get the oil/filter at walmart.
Also it would be a good idea to read up on a coolant flush and coolant filter.If your oil cooler plugs up then no coolant can flow to the EGR cooler.I used Cat EC1 coolant in mine after hours of reading.I got a performance machine coolant filter and my EOT/ECT were never above 8 degrees under normal conditions.
Also it would be a good idea to read up on a coolant flush and coolant filter.If your oil cooler plugs up then no coolant can flow to the EGR cooler.I used Cat EC1 coolant in mine after hours of reading.I got a performance machine coolant filter and my EOT/ECT were never above 8 degrees under normal conditions.
Posted on 4/15/14 at 8:18 am to Hammertime
The issues mainly occurred in earlier versions of the 6.0. Poorly designed HPOP, bad choice of coolant, poor design of the system the delivered HPO to the injectors. The HPOP was squared away with the last iteration but by then the switch to common rail HPF was already planned. The coolant can't handle the EGR temperatures which caused boil over and precipitation of solids that kill the oil cooler. Simply switching to a non-additive OAT ELC like Rotella ELC would fix a lot of that. The 6.0 pushed a lot of new technologies that the EPA mandated and it took a lot of extra work to fix the problems that cropped up but the architecture behind the engine is very sound. Given the choice to work over a 7.3 or a 6.0 PSD on a bench I'd go with the latter.
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