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Started By
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Changing brakes on car - first time doing it myself
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:42 pm
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:42 pm
What can go wrong?
Got my youtube vids queued up, doesn't appear that hard. Need some jack stands.
What is a common critical rookie mistake or things to be aware of?
Got my youtube vids queued up, doesn't appear that hard. Need some jack stands.
What is a common critical rookie mistake or things to be aware of?
5
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:43 pm to The Mick
Dont take any brake lines loose if you don't have to.
Make sure you have all the shite you need before you start.
Figure on it taking twice as long as you thought it would.
Disks or drums?
Make sure you have all the shite you need before you start.
Figure on it taking twice as long as you thought it would.
Disks or drums?
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:44 pm to The Mick
Disk brakes aren't bad. Prayers sent if it's drums.
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:44 pm to The Mick
Probably issues with bleeding the brakes or not having the rotors turned
With YouTube , anything is possible though.
With YouTube , anything is possible though.
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:49 pm to The Mick
When you're finished, don't just get in the car/truck and head down the block!
Start the vehicle and pump the brakes about a dozen times (maybe more, maybe less). If you did the job correctly, you would have pushed the pistons back into the calipers (using a c-clamp or a special brake tool), right? The result of doing this is a loss of brake pressure.
Pump the brakes when finished. You'll feel the pedal pressure come back to normal after several compressions.
Start the vehicle and pump the brakes about a dozen times (maybe more, maybe less). If you did the job correctly, you would have pushed the pistons back into the calipers (using a c-clamp or a special brake tool), right? The result of doing this is a loss of brake pressure.
Pump the brakes when finished. You'll feel the pedal pressure come back to normal after several compressions.
This post was edited on 2/27/14 at 7:51 pm
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:51 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Altima so ?
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:52 pm to The Mick
Just doing front?
That's disk.
That's disk.
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:52 pm to cdaniel76
Yes I got that planned for sure thanks (pistons)
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:53 pm to The Mick
Are u changing the rotors or bringing them to get resurfaced?
Either of the above must be done when performing a brake job.
Either of the above must be done when performing a brake job.
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:53 pm to cdaniel76
Yea front for now. Probably need rotors too which doesn't look like big deal. I'm actually worried about the locking clamp on the watchacallit
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:54 pm to The Mick
quote:
locking clamp on the watchacallit
Awwwwwwww yea you're screwed
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:54 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
That clamp thing on the caliper do you just pry it off kind of?
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:56 pm to The Mick
Locking clamp?
I've changed brakes on several makes and models in the last 20 years.
Never seen any kind of locking clamp.
Most front wheel drive vehicle rotors just slide on and off the wheel studs.
Some later model years may use a bolt to hold the rotor to the hub.
I've changed brakes on several makes and models in the last 20 years.
Never seen any kind of locking clamp.
Most front wheel drive vehicle rotors just slide on and off the wheel studs.
Some later model years may use a bolt to hold the rotor to the hub.
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:57 pm to The Mick
take the cap off the master cylinder. and don't forget to put it back
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:57 pm to The Mick
What year Altima?
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:57 pm to The Mick
Pay the money to get it done
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:57 pm to cdaniel76
Clamp on the caliper not on the rotor, it frees the caliper from the rotor ?.?? Maybe I'm fricked here
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:57 pm to The Mick
These days you can get new rotors at a NAPA as cheap as you could get them cut.
Crack the bleeder before you try and depress the pistons...you don't wanna push all that bad fluid back into your HCU.
Once you're done, pump your brakes prior to putting the car in reverse.
Crack the bleeder before you try and depress the pistons...you don't wanna push all that bad fluid back into your HCU.
Once you're done, pump your brakes prior to putting the car in reverse.
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:58 pm to KingRanch
There's usually some metal retaining clips on the calipers that hold the brake pads in place. You shouldn't have to remove those unless the new pads come with new ones and you want to replace them.
Posted on 2/27/14 at 7:59 pm to DonChowder
Can someone else comment on that too, I've watched a lot of vids and seems to be difference of opinion on that issue. Bleed line or not before pushing pistons in
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