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I need some help OT (car audio related)
Posted on 1/11/14 at 6:46 pm
Posted on 1/11/14 at 6:46 pm
I've scoured the internet and still am unsure if I am any better off then before.
Situation: I have a 2 channel 1100 watt amp. Can I run 4 door speakers on one Chanel and a small sub on another? Can they be put in series? I don't know shite about car audio. Just want my pos factory setup to sound better. Bought kenwood higher end 6x8 door speakers, and a 10" 2ohm single coil kicker sub (made to fit under seat)
Thinking about just the head unit (stock 2012 f150) supporting the door speakers (kenwood 80 watt rms 200 peak) and amplify the sub. But I have to put an converter inline with the speakers to change it to a RCA output. I guess I would splice that AFTER the sound from the head unit goes to all the speakers (or some shite. I don't fricking know). Did a thread on this earlier, now I actually got the seats out my truck got the amp (from my nephew. He told me 4 channel it's 2. Little fricker!!!)
Anyone??? Bueller?
Disclaimer....I am not a boom boom audiophile. I am a musician and enjoy rock, jazz, blues, fusion, metal etc.
Oh. Gfm, ydgaf, poy, gsysof, joab, lolololdidntread, posmfker etc etc etc.
Situation: I have a 2 channel 1100 watt amp. Can I run 4 door speakers on one Chanel and a small sub on another? Can they be put in series? I don't know shite about car audio. Just want my pos factory setup to sound better. Bought kenwood higher end 6x8 door speakers, and a 10" 2ohm single coil kicker sub (made to fit under seat)
Thinking about just the head unit (stock 2012 f150) supporting the door speakers (kenwood 80 watt rms 200 peak) and amplify the sub. But I have to put an converter inline with the speakers to change it to a RCA output. I guess I would splice that AFTER the sound from the head unit goes to all the speakers (or some shite. I don't fricking know). Did a thread on this earlier, now I actually got the seats out my truck got the amp (from my nephew. He told me 4 channel it's 2. Little fricker!!!)
Anyone??? Bueller?
Disclaimer....I am not a boom boom audiophile. I am a musician and enjoy rock, jazz, blues, fusion, metal etc.
Oh. Gfm, ydgaf, poy, gsysof, joab, lolololdidntread, posmfker etc etc etc.
This post was edited on 1/11/14 at 6:49 pm
4
Posted on 1/11/14 at 6:50 pm to dreaux
I am going to assume your speakers are 4 ohm. You can series wire two together then parallel wire the two sets and the amp will see a 4 ohm load overall on that channel. Sub can be on the other channel. Totally ghetto as frick.
This post was edited on 1/11/14 at 6:53 pm
Posted on 1/11/14 at 6:51 pm to dreaux
I'd get a 4 channel amp and run the door speakers on 2 channels and sub on 2...otherwise run the doors off the headunit......or get another 2 channel amp
Posted on 1/11/14 at 6:52 pm to NittanyLionsRoar
quote:
I am going to assume your speakers are 4 ohm. You can series wire two together then parallel wire the two sets and the amp will see a 4th load overall on that channel. All can be on the other channel. Totally ghetto as frick.
Yeah. frick that shite lol. I'll just get a separate amp for my sub and wire the door speakers off another 2 channel or a lower wattage 4 channel and save the 2 for the sub?
Posted on 1/11/14 at 6:53 pm to dillpickleLSU
Yeah. What you said lol
Posted on 1/11/14 at 6:53 pm to dreaux
You have the factory head unit?
Eta sorry im drunk from the Saints stiffest. Just get another head unit for like $80that will willpower the doors and sub on the amp.
Eta sorry im drunk from the Saints stiffest. Just get another head unit for like $80that will willpower the doors and sub on the amp.
This post was edited on 1/11/14 at 6:55 pm
Posted on 1/11/14 at 6:56 pm to dillpickleLSU
I wish I could find the specks off the factory head unit. Was going to replace it, but JESUS what a headache to make my steering wheel controls nav and sync work. It was unreal all the components, adapters, converters etc I would have to buy. Not to mention a new bezel and shite.
I would bet there 20 watts a channel but idk
I would bet there 20 watts a channel but idk
This post was edited on 1/11/14 at 6:58 pm
Posted on 1/11/14 at 7:08 pm to dreaux
If you want it easy, run the 6x9s off of the head unit and the sub off of the amp. That amp probably doesn't have any kind of filtering on it for high frequencies
Complicated, run two amps
Complicated, run two amps
Posted on 1/11/14 at 7:15 pm to dreaux
If you have sync your fricked as far as getting a new head unit.
You'll end up having to run individual wires to each speaker from the headunit.
Sync head units have a digital amp under the console that makes changing the head unit a pain. For a sub I ended up getting a high to low level converter and pulling off a rear speaker.
Just do that and pay me and I'll put a ipad mini in there for you.
You'll end up having to run individual wires to each speaker from the headunit.
Sync head units have a digital amp under the console that makes changing the head unit a pain. For a sub I ended up getting a high to low level converter and pulling off a rear speaker.
Just do that and pay me and I'll put a ipad mini in there for you.
This post was edited on 1/11/14 at 7:16 pm
Posted on 1/11/14 at 7:43 pm to soco790
So you kept the head unit. How do your speakers sound? Did you replace the door speakers?
And where did you put the signal converter to run the sub? I want to keep all 4 door speakers. Can I still put the RCA converter for the sub and still keep my door speakers (no RCA output on stock HU).
Sweet mini btw. Thought about that. I have a stand in my cup older for my air. I am always doing business on the road. Have to have it.
And where did you put the signal converter to run the sub? I want to keep all 4 door speakers. Can I still put the RCA converter for the sub and still keep my door speakers (no RCA output on stock HU).
Sweet mini btw. Thought about that. I have a stand in my cup older for my air. I am always doing business on the road. Have to have it.
Posted on 1/11/14 at 7:52 pm to dreaux
Honestly not a fan of the stock head unit. I don't like blaring my music but it gets pretty distorted when you try to turn it up the last little bit.
Hi to low converter leaves the speaker working, basically just pulls a preout from the speaker. Sub never has sound quality issues.
Hi to low converter leaves the speaker working, basically just pulls a preout from the speaker. Sub never has sound quality issues.
Posted on 1/11/14 at 8:25 pm to soco790
Thanks. Yeah, just want quality sound.
Posted on 1/12/14 at 10:46 pm to dreaux
With the line level converter (hi lo), I took out the rear speaker. I then cut the connector off and put spade connectors on it and ran speaker wire from the circuit supplying the rear speaker to the line converter. I then ran speaker wire from the converter back to the door speaker and it doesn't work. I have not hooked up the sub yet, just making sure I can get the converter (checking to make sure all the door speakers are still working, only changed one) to work. Well there is nothing but like one front speaker working.
The converter has inputs for all four speaker front and rear. The instructions say put it behind the factory unit. Two different sets of instructions, one with a harness and one with just the speaker wires coming out the back of the head unit. I thought I could just convert the signal of one of the speakers in line and run it to an amp?
Sense I am only converting the signal for a 2 channel amp for one subwoofer and having all the door speakers work off factory head.
Am I doing it wrong? I am an electrician, but I have never done car audio and only work dc on some instrumentation and it's usually miliamps. From what I think I know, what I did should work. I should be able to tap the speaker wire into the converter and run speaker wire back to the speaker. All I need is one signal for the amp right?
Or do I have to do both sides? Either two in the front or two in the back?
Fffuuuccckkkkk
The converter has inputs for all four speaker front and rear. The instructions say put it behind the factory unit. Two different sets of instructions, one with a harness and one with just the speaker wires coming out the back of the head unit. I thought I could just convert the signal of one of the speakers in line and run it to an amp?
Sense I am only converting the signal for a 2 channel amp for one subwoofer and having all the door speakers work off factory head.
Am I doing it wrong? I am an electrician, but I have never done car audio and only work dc on some instrumentation and it's usually miliamps. From what I think I know, what I did should work. I should be able to tap the speaker wire into the converter and run speaker wire back to the speaker. All I need is one signal for the amp right?
Or do I have to do both sides? Either two in the front or two in the back?
Fffuuuccckkkkk
This post was edited on 1/12/14 at 10:50 pm
Posted on 1/12/14 at 10:51 pm to dreaux
Somebody better fricking help me.
Posted on 1/13/14 at 8:57 am to dreaux
Great. That's just awesome. Gave you guys 12 hours. Thanks a lot, lazy mfers.
I'll just pay someone.
Yeah....I'm a whiny little bitch.
I'll just pay someone.
Yeah....I'm a whiny little bitch.
Posted on 1/13/14 at 3:42 pm to dreaux
Thanks for nothing.
Yeah...I'm talking to myself.
Yeah...I'm talking to myself.
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