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Started By
Message
OB mechanic brake questions
Posted on 8/22/16 at 7:49 am
Posted on 8/22/16 at 7:49 am
This weekend was truck maintenance weekend. I had 4 tires mounted and balanced, and an alignment. Now my steering wheel is no longer centered, so I already have to bring that back.
Yesterday I started on the brakes, no issues until I tried to get the caliper bracket off. Dear lord baby jesus, that thing is going no where. I got 2 hernias, gave up, just changed the pads, and drank beer.
Any tips on getting those caliper bracket bolts out of there? Any issues just replacing the front pads and not rotors? Truck only has 58k miles but the brakes were squealing a little so I decided to go ahead and do it.
Yesterday I started on the brakes, no issues until I tried to get the caliper bracket off. Dear lord baby jesus, that thing is going no where. I got 2 hernias, gave up, just changed the pads, and drank beer.
Any tips on getting those caliper bracket bolts out of there? Any issues just replacing the front pads and not rotors? Truck only has 58k miles but the brakes were squealing a little so I decided to go ahead and do it.
8
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:14 am to BoogaBear
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:16 am to BoogaBear
Get some penatrating oil and a breaker bar. Let the penatrating oil sit for a while. Then try with the breaker bar. If it still doesn't come off, while applying pressure with the breaker bar have someone tap the back of breaker bar behind the nut with a hammer. If that doesn't work, you'll need an impact wrench. Impact will be better.
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:17 am to meauxjeaux2
That guy isn't fitting in the wheel well.
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:20 am to BoogaBear
PB Blaster is the stuff. Soak it and let sit for a bit and use a breaker bar if you don't have an impact.
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:22 am to BoogaBear
quote:
Any issues just replacing the front pads and not rotors?
Not unless the rotor is damaged or worn which is unlikely at 58k miles unless you're running a very aggressive pad or pulling heavy shite.
Look up the rotor thickness for your Year/make/model and then grab your micrometer to compare the thickness of the rotor to factory specs. I usually do front rotors every other pad change, sometimes every third pad change depending on the condition of the rotor.
quote:
Any tips on getting those caliper bracket bolts out of there?
I use a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone on stubborn bolts. Usually does the trick. I'm guessing an impact will not fit between the strut and caliper bracket? Do you have a couple of breaker bars? You may have to heat it up if that doesn't work. Just be careful with heat and don't boil your break fluid like a certain somebody I know.
Don't forget that you can disconnect the lower strut mount to free up some room behind the knuckle to get your impact on the caliper bolts.
Edit- never mind
This post was edited on 8/22/16 at 8:33 am
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:26 am to BoogaBear
quote:i can fit a 1/2" Impact on any vehicle. Let me guess. Chevy truck?
That guy isn't fitting in the wheel well.
Just turn the wheel all the way to one side and you have all the access you need to the caliper bracket bolts.
And if it is a Chevy then the bracket bolts have some bad arse loctite on them and no amount of penetrating oil will break them free.
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:27 am to BoogaBear
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:28 am to Barf
I'm thinking about renting one of those air impact ratchets. I could get that in there. A regular impact, not a chance.
I also might ask the mechanic what they would charge to put the rotors on there since they will have to to redo the alignment. I have the parts just can't get the bolts off.
It seems fine with the old rotors, breaks smooth and everything. Hell the old pads weren't really that worn, they were just squealing so I decided to replace.
I also might ask the mechanic what they would charge to put the rotors on there since they will have to to redo the alignment. I have the parts just can't get the bolts off.
It seems fine with the old rotors, breaks smooth and everything. Hell the old pads weren't really that worn, they were just squealing so I decided to replace.
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:30 am to BoogaBear
quote:no such thing.
air impact ratchets.
This post was edited on 8/22/16 at 8:30 am
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:31 am to meauxjeaux2
It's a Nissan Frontier.
Looking like this, some stock photo from the internet.
Looking like this, some stock photo from the internet.
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:33 am to BoogaBear
yeah, a swivel on a 1/2" impact,maybe an extension and you can get to the caliper bracket bolts. Are you jacking the vehicle up by the control arm or by the frame?
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:37 am to meauxjeaux2
By the frame, the owners manual has the jack point behind the front tire on the frame, so that's what I did.
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:42 am to BoogaBear
Just drive the junk and mess with the rotors the next time you change pads. I bet those rotors have plenty of material left.
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:46 am to Barf
quote:
Just drive the junk and mess with the rotors the next time you change pads. I bet those rotors have plenty of material lef
Leaning heavily towards this.
Posted on 8/22/16 at 8:55 am to BoogaBear
quote:with the control arm hanging so low i'm sure you're blocking access to at least the lower bolt, maybe both.
By the frame
Posted on 8/22/16 at 9:04 am to BoogaBear
Just drive the junk and mess with the rotors the next time you change pads. I bet those rotors have plenty of material lef Leaning heavily towards this.
Rotors that have been turned are more prone to warping, etc.
Rotors that have been turned are more prone to warping, etc.
Posted on 8/22/16 at 9:14 am to Spaceman Spiff
quote:
Rotors that have been turned are more prone to warping, etc.
Rotors haven't been cut, he can't get them off the car. It's likely that the rotors are fine and do not need service anyway. If they is no obvious damage and they are thick enough, leave them alone.
Also, warped rotors are a myth
Posted on 8/22/16 at 10:37 am to BoogaBear
Feel the edge of your rotors and see if there is a lip on them. After 58k, it should be small and your rotors should be fine. You can hit them with a wire wheel or some sandpaper and then brake parts cleaner if you want. They shouldn't need replacing yet though.
Eta: Also, if you feel any vibration when you brake, they should come off. Otherwise they don't need to
Eta: Also, if you feel any vibration when you brake, they should come off. Otherwise they don't need to
This post was edited on 8/22/16 at 10:49 am
Posted on 8/22/16 at 10:46 am to BoogaBear
GM? Last GM vehicle I had they used red locktite on the caliper bolts. Has to get the blue wrench out to heat it up and break down the red loctite.
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