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Message
Laying New Floors - OB Recs
Posted on 9/6/17 at 6:02 pm
Posted on 9/6/17 at 6:02 pm
Looking for some opinions on tile vs wood floors. We originally planned to lay down tile, well the woman decided to change to wood floors at the last minute. I prepped the sub floor which is a crawl space with 3/4" plywood and 500 haride backer. The floor isn't 100% level in places. There a few dips here and there. My question is what is the best way to get it level now? I was just going to level it out with grout when I installed tile. Should I just pour grout in those low spots to fill them in? How hard is it to install wood floors?
TLDR
Laying wood floors on uneven surface
Best ways to do this
TLDR
Laying wood floors on uneven surface
Best ways to do this
12
Posted on 9/6/17 at 6:48 pm to GeauxTime9
Come look at my ceramic tile floors. They look identical to wood but will never scratch, fade, warp, need to be replaced. And are flood proof!
Posted on 9/6/17 at 7:00 pm to GeauxTime9
I think wood floors or laminate would be your best bet given the sub floor you have.
Posted on 9/6/17 at 7:11 pm to GeauxTime9
Just tiled a closet with 24"x12" porcelain tile, about to start on 1200 sq-ft of engineered wood flooring. If both cases I've spent a lot of time on floor surface prep and getting out high/low spots which makes it much easier, particularly with wood flooring. I'm assuming you are going glue down since you've got the hardie baker down now. Need to test the moisture of the subfloor before worrying about leveling so you can get the right product.
Posted on 9/6/17 at 7:23 pm to GeauxTime9
You want to use floor leveler, not grout to level.
Posted on 9/6/17 at 7:39 pm to GeauxTime9
You should be able to nail the hardwood down, and it will conform to the subfloor, assuming your floor isn't too uneven.
Posted on 9/6/17 at 7:58 pm to AUCE05
Yeah, there are just a few places where there might be 1/4" lip from the hardieboard that is sticking up. There was some leftover thinset that i didn't scrape up. I just went over it with new thinset and hardibacker. I wasn't sure how wood would conform to those spots.
Posted on 9/6/17 at 8:14 pm to GeauxTime9
1/4" is a lot. Have you used a long level to map out the uneven spots?
Posted on 9/6/17 at 9:35 pm to GeauxTime9
Depending on the size of area you can either use a floor patch such as Mapei Plani Patch, Mapei mapecem quick patch, or equivalent. You can also use a self leveler, but you really need to know what you are doing with that. It is expensive to use, but has really good results when done properly. It really depends on how bad your low spots are and how high you need to bring it up to be level. Most of the engineered wood floors are 3/8" thick and conform to the slab pretty well. If you are pier and beam the Patch should suffice.
Posted on 9/7/17 at 7:19 am to GeauxTime9
Prep is the most important part, shitty prep shitty floor, use a self leveling underlayment, but a 1/4 inch is a pretty big hump.
Posted on 9/7/17 at 8:09 am to GeauxTime9
Have you considered vinyl plank flooring?
Mine is glue down, water proof and looks really good. Most people who come in think its wood but its not, doesn't move, low maintenance and quiet. We really like it. If something does happen to it I can peel a tile up and lay another right in its place. We had laminate, never again! When the installer layed it they put down a layer of thinset then glued it down, this was over concrete sub-floor.
Mine is glue down, water proof and looks really good. Most people who come in think its wood but its not, doesn't move, low maintenance and quiet. We really like it. If something does happen to it I can peel a tile up and lay another right in its place. We had laminate, never again! When the installer layed it they put down a layer of thinset then glued it down, this was over concrete sub-floor.
Posted on 9/9/17 at 2:31 am to GeauxTime9
If you are going with wood flooring on a wood subfloor I would remove the hardie use a long level and mark you low spots. Buy a floor leveler thats designed to go straight on wood. Henry makes one that should be carried locally.
Follow the directions. I would cover the entire floor to insure a smooth surfance instead of just the marked spots. But start at the low areas and let it spread from there.
You can glue down, nail or if you want glue and nail your wood floors down.
Whatever you decide get your floor fixed at the problem, not 2 or 3 layers up. Its much easier.
Edit: forgot to say. I dont do floors professionally, but I have done about 6 or 8 . Everytime i started with lips or bellys in the subloor and tried to address it a layer or 2 later I regretted it. when I used henrys to start everything went fast and headache free.
Follow the directions. I would cover the entire floor to insure a smooth surfance instead of just the marked spots. But start at the low areas and let it spread from there.
You can glue down, nail or if you want glue and nail your wood floors down.
Whatever you decide get your floor fixed at the problem, not 2 or 3 layers up. Its much easier.
Edit: forgot to say. I dont do floors professionally, but I have done about 6 or 8 . Everytime i started with lips or bellys in the subloor and tried to address it a layer or 2 later I regretted it. when I used henrys to start everything went fast and headache free.
This post was edited on 9/9/17 at 2:36 am
Posted on 9/9/17 at 5:48 am to wickowick
quote:
You want to use floor leveler, not grout to level.
This 100%. Tile or wood flooring can not have more then 1/8" dip. If you do, that will throw everything out of wack big time. Using floor leveler is easy and dries fast. Best to have two or more people to work with it if the area is big. One to mix and one to float it out.
Posted on 9/9/17 at 7:58 am to GeauxTime9
Research CoreTec vinyl "wood" planks. This stuff is really nice, looks like wood, has cork backing, is forgiving as far as 1/8 to 3/16" flaws in subfloor, will not warp like wood, snaps together. You can glue it down or float it.
This post was edited on 9/9/17 at 8:01 am
Posted on 9/9/17 at 9:11 am to GeauxTime9
you can try floor leveler to get the subfloor leveled out.
I suggest the wood look ceramic tile with crack isolation under it.
You can put the electric coil heating under the bath areas to help with the cold in the winter.
I suggest the wood look ceramic tile with crack isolation under it.
You can put the electric coil heating under the bath areas to help with the cold in the winter.
Posted on 9/9/17 at 9:15 am to GeauxTime9
First pull the hardie board up now sub floor prep you need a straight edge or you can stretch a string and nail it down this will show you high low spots do this every few feet and go both ways. high sand it down low use a self leveler you should not have more than 3/16 deviation in 10 feet. You are looking to get the floor flat. Now if you use self leveler you will need to glue the floor down to the leveler and nail the rest but self leveler is not ideal to nail through the leveler. good quality glues are available Loba wakol is probably the best use the trowel they recommend. Yes you can rent a nailer and and diy just read this you will be fine. LINK
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