Issues with Boat hasn't been run in two plus years

The seller's story sounds a little too perfect to me. Do you have any experience with boats?

I would think the water pump would need to be replaced after sitting for two years

2 or 4 stroke? What's the actual age and hp? Is there an oil/water separator? Need more info...

That's the same scenario we got our boat. It was kept under a lift so no real sun damage but it was covered in some filth. A little fiberglass repair and changing out the temperature sensors and we have a boat.
2005 20 foot seafox that is beautiful and fishes well for only 9k

Your probably fixing to get a real good boat for a real good price if the story holds true.

The trailer hubs will likely need to be rebuilt. After a long tow the inner seals may start to leak due to drying out, check the inside of the rims.

The hydraulic steering may need to be rebuilt, after your test run check for oil residue in the splash well, it will be a slightly yellow oil and you may not be able to see it, but can tell it’s there by the residue in the splash well.

I would not run that boat without a fuel/water separator, or any boat for that matter. Ask him if it has one and when was the last time it’s been changed.

It’s his boat for now, and it’s his choice, but you may need to add an octane boost to gas that is 2 years old. I would feel better just draining it all and running it in my lawn equipment or a gallon or two in my vehicles over time. Filling with fresh gas, run the tank nearly dry, change all filters including any on the engine and the fuel/water separator.

Entire cooling system needs to be checked, insects love to find a home there, may need a complete rebuild of the water pump.

Lower unit oil should be fine, tilt the engine all the way up and remove the bottom drain plug. Be careful as oil will try to come out, just plug it with your finger. Look at the plug for shards of metal, a very small amount is normal, but bigger pieces or an excessive amount may mean there could be lower unit issues. The plug is slightly magnetized and metal will settle there, so do this before your test run.

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I would drain the gas if I bought it.

I'd also change all fluids / filters and the water pump as said above.

Run everything during the test drive - not just the motor. Make sure all of the electrical works, pumps, trim, dash, etc.

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All of this.

Im a little weary that it fired up no problem after two years of sitting with old gas. Id ask for the paperwork from the mechanic just to be sure.

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On the gas, it's so cheap right now I would not hesitate to drain it to avoid chance of way more expense from damage.

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True I was thinking you could just add a can of sea-foam and octane boost and be good to go but a 60 gallon tank of gas would be about $150 bucks to refill with non-ethanol, in this case it would be worth it.

OP, if its a glass boat look for spider cracks in the gel coat, look at the wiring for cracks, open every hatch and look for cracks. If you could be a little more specific on the year and model of boat you would get better answers.

ID get a 55 gallon drum and drain the gas, it easily could be good but it's not worth risking until you get the motor running well. It's an easy variable to remove and in my experience bad gas can have a couple different symptoms so it's hard to absolutely blame gas sometimes.

Thanks for all the info here.

He is going to drain it and refill some prior to our test drive. I will def check everything out real good on test drive. All the electrical switches, trim tabs, trolling motor, bilge and wash down pumps, lights etc.

It is a 250 HP Yamaha with 55 hours. He is going to bring it to an engine place to get them to run that same test and give the printout with the hours and compression and all that stuff. We have agreed on a price but he did say that we could renegotiate if something big is noticed on test drive (or in engine reprt). The guy that gave him the 55 hours number was a guy his buddy told him to go to. But he didn't get any paperwork or anything. But he said he is calling around and everyone is two weeks out. So I said that's fine I would rather wait and make sure RD good to go. I'm hoping that when they run the engine and get that report it would tell them if any fuel filters/water separators need to be replaced. If not maybe I should just ask him to do that and I pay the bill when I pay for the boat by just tacking it on to sale price.

Seems like a really nice guy. And he isn't poor. He apparently has the type of money to buy a really expensive toy and just not use it. His barn/workshop was bad arse. Said once he got into his horses he pretty much quit using the boat.

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It is a 250 HP Yamaha with 55 hours.

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55'hrs is nothing. Someone asked if it was a 2 or 4 stroke, which is it?

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He is going to bring it to an engine place to get them to run that same test and give the printout with the hours and compression and all that stuff. We have agreed on a price but he say that we could renegotiate if something big is noticed on test drive (or in engine reprt).

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Sounds like he's honest but con artists do, too. I'm probably being on the overly cautious side here but Inwould feel more comfortable bringing it to get this done by my guy.

If it's your first boat and you don't have or know a mechanic, maybe bring it to one recommended by a friend you trust who would have no dog in this hunt. Not sure what a mechanic would charge for compression test but evenif it costs you $150.00 it could save you thousands. And maybe he would split the cost or assume it if it comes back a no deal.