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Message
Frozen Up Outboard Help
Posted on 6/18/17 at 8:16 pm
Posted on 6/18/17 at 8:16 pm
Long story short our camp flooded last year (August)with my boat in the boat house, 25 hp Evinrude. Due to circumstances I was unable to get it out for service until this weekend.
The motor is locked up, fly wheel will not turn. The starter will hit it but it will not budge. Also will not turn by hand.
Is there a fix for this, or is my motor toast ?
The motor is locked up, fly wheel will not turn. The starter will hit it but it will not budge. Also will not turn by hand.
Is there a fix for this, or is my motor toast ?
This post was edited on 6/18/17 at 8:59 pm
7
Posted on 6/18/17 at 8:23 pm to The Torch
Probably toast rusted solid.
Posted on 6/18/17 at 8:27 pm to The Torch
Is there water in the cylinders still? Take plugs out to see if that changes anything.
If you could get a scope into the plug holes, if the cylinder are rusted or corroded it's probably toast.
If you could get a scope into the plug holes, if the cylinder are rusted or corroded it's probably toast.
Posted on 6/18/17 at 8:27 pm to wickowick
quote:
Probably toast rusted solid.
This what I was afraid of, expensive shite.
Posted on 6/18/17 at 8:27 pm to The Torch
Take the spark plug out and see if it will turn by hand
Posted on 6/18/17 at 8:34 pm to weadjust
Circumstances are circumstances but man if you get to that motor in the first month it's running fine today. A year later I am not sure it can be fixed I would bet it's rusted solid. Sorry to hear this that flooding was awful.
Posted on 6/18/17 at 8:40 pm to The Torch
Remove plugs and put penetrating oil in the cylinders and allow a lot of time to do it's job. Then, very slowly and gently try to hand turn it over. It might free up and be okay if you do this process.
Posted on 6/18/17 at 9:01 pm to LSUwag
A jug of kroil oil might be your friend. Afterward though your going to really want to flush the kroil out as it is someone corrosive which is why it dissolves rust.
Posted on 6/18/17 at 10:22 pm to The Torch
honestly, I wouldn't expect much...
as the others say, take out the plugs and soak the cylinders with penetrating oil.
after things soak for a day or so, put a breaker bar on the nut holding the flywheel on to see if you can move the engine at all.
fwiw, I would mess with it just for the challenge of fixing it, but I would never trust it again.
as the others say, take out the plugs and soak the cylinders with penetrating oil.
after things soak for a day or so, put a breaker bar on the nut holding the flywheel on to see if you can move the engine at all.
fwiw, I would mess with it just for the challenge of fixing it, but I would never trust it again.
Posted on 6/19/17 at 6:58 am to The Torch
quote:
Long story short our camp flooded last year (August)with my boat in the boat house, 25 hp Evinrude. Due to circumstances I was unable to get it out for service until this weekend.
Your best case scenario would have been for it to have sunk and the motor be submerged for the duration. Even still, nearly a year wouldn't bode well. The rusting starts in earnest when you add air to the mix (actually had this conversation with my late boss, 20 years ago or so, about a boat he had sunk at his camp). As others have suggested, cylinder may be full of water. You're probably looking at a major overhaul at best. If you don't mind putting in the work, you may be able to get it operational again. Even with you doing much of the work yourself, I suspect the cost will be such that you may want to consider a new motor.
Good luck
Posted on 6/19/17 at 10:59 am to The Torch
you never said what year it is, and this is mainly just for info, but here is examples of used power heads you could use to get it going with again.
its all depending on the overall condition of the rest of your motor but this is better then buying another motor and way cheaper then having yours rebuilt
LINK
ps - something you most likely didn't even think about is the ECM (black box) ignition will be corroded and needing replacing and those are expensive items
LINK
I see this motor as "savable" with new ecm and power head, "maybe" worth it to you if its relatively new motor, but if its an older motor then sell it for a couple hundred dollars as a parts mower and just go buy a replacement motor
its all depending on the overall condition of the rest of your motor but this is better then buying another motor and way cheaper then having yours rebuilt
LINK
ps - something you most likely didn't even think about is the ECM (black box) ignition will be corroded and needing replacing and those are expensive items
LINK
I see this motor as "savable" with new ecm and power head, "maybe" worth it to you if its relatively new motor, but if its an older motor then sell it for a couple hundred dollars as a parts mower and just go buy a replacement motor
This post was edited on 6/19/17 at 11:08 am
Posted on 6/19/17 at 12:10 pm to keakar
quote:
you never said what year it is
It's a 2001 but has really low hours on it, we used it probably three - five times a year.
Posted on 6/19/17 at 12:18 pm to The Torch
ok, so its a 16 year old motor? move one and replace it.
you can sell the lower unit for around a few hundred dollars depending on how the going prices are. here are some examples
LINK
then strip the motor down and the other parts to sell on ebay.
as an example, I had a Suzuki df40 with a corrosion hole in the head. I stripped it and sold everything over a matter of 6 months and got $2800 for all of the parts. $500 for power trim, $500 for the lower unit, $100 for the mid section and transom mount bracket, $200 for control box and cables, $100 for carbs, the cowling cover and surround with gasket I got $100.
on yours, all your electrical stuff will be garbage so you cant sell that stuff but you can see what im saying.
so that's the best way I see to get the best value back out of it then that money helps pay for the replacement motor
you can sell the lower unit for around a few hundred dollars depending on how the going prices are. here are some examples
LINK
then strip the motor down and the other parts to sell on ebay.
as an example, I had a Suzuki df40 with a corrosion hole in the head. I stripped it and sold everything over a matter of 6 months and got $2800 for all of the parts. $500 for power trim, $500 for the lower unit, $100 for the mid section and transom mount bracket, $200 for control box and cables, $100 for carbs, the cowling cover and surround with gasket I got $100.
on yours, all your electrical stuff will be garbage so you cant sell that stuff but you can see what im saying.
so that's the best way I see to get the best value back out of it then that money helps pay for the replacement motor
This post was edited on 6/19/17 at 12:24 pm
Posted on 6/19/17 at 12:27 pm to Spankum
quote:
fwiw, I would mess with it just for the challenge of fixing it, but I would never trust it again.
Exactly
This
Posted on 6/19/17 at 1:14 pm to Wtodd
Really missed your chance to "pickle" the engine. I was able to save my F250 after it went underwater in the flood with a little time and money. If I were you...I'd prob sell for parts and replace.
I basically pulled the plugs and sprayed in fogging oil, drained the power head (totally full of water/oil) and flushed 3X with diesel fuel, added new oil and bumped starter to empty cylinders, replaced plugs, cleaned and dried power head, drained fuel tank and fuel system (biggest pain). Luckily my ECM stayed dry inside. Motor has been perfect....btw insurance wanted to total entire rig.
I basically pulled the plugs and sprayed in fogging oil, drained the power head (totally full of water/oil) and flushed 3X with diesel fuel, added new oil and bumped starter to empty cylinders, replaced plugs, cleaned and dried power head, drained fuel tank and fuel system (biggest pain). Luckily my ECM stayed dry inside. Motor has been perfect....btw insurance wanted to total entire rig.
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