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Electric 2 HP pool pump - seized?
Posted on 4/2/17 at 3:16 pm
Posted on 4/2/17 at 3:16 pm
Had PVC water feedline to the filter break on me a little while back so I shut the power off until I could get all the specific parts and get the lines changed out. Afterwards, go to turn the pump on and get a buzzing sound that I affiliate with a seized motor.
I tried disassembling the actual pump from the motor while in place and had a very hard time with one of the bolts underneath it. The impeller seems to turn but I don't know for sure that the motor does or does not. I'll have to disconnect everything and somehow vice it down to get the pump off. Again, right after changing the lines and gluing everything back together.
Any chance in something other than locked up or should I go ahead and order the replacement motor and get that process started?
I tried disassembling the actual pump from the motor while in place and had a very hard time with one of the bolts underneath it. The impeller seems to turn but I don't know for sure that the motor does or does not. I'll have to disconnect everything and somehow vice it down to get the pump off. Again, right after changing the lines and gluing everything back together.
Any chance in something other than locked up or should I go ahead and order the replacement motor and get that process started?
2
Posted on 4/2/17 at 3:34 pm to xenon16
If impeller is turning freely then motor should be turning as well unless some kind of clip or key sheared. Might want to check capacitors. May be 1 or 2 of them. If 2, there is usually a starting capacitor that jumps up the voltage to compensate for the initial torgue required to get motor and water moving. The 2nd one is the running capacitor. The buzzing sound may mean there isn't enough voltage to get it moving... because the starting capacitor is shot.
Certainly not a pump expert but it sounds more like electrical if the motor is turning with the impellor. Normally there is a small access panel that takes 1 or 2 screws to get to capacitor and electrical connections. Capacitors are cheap. I would recommend starting there first.
Certainly not a pump expert but it sounds more like electrical if the motor is turning with the impellor. Normally there is a small access panel that takes 1 or 2 screws to get to capacitor and electrical connections. Capacitors are cheap. I would recommend starting there first.
This post was edited on 4/2/17 at 3:35 pm
Posted on 4/2/17 at 4:18 pm to Tridentds
Yeah, there is an access panel to it. I sheared it loose when trying to get the last bolt out.
Hadn't thought about the capacitor. Thanks. I will update after swapping it out.
Hadn't thought about the capacitor. Thanks. I will update after swapping it out.
Posted on 4/2/17 at 4:32 pm to xenon16
Did you prime the pump before you turned it back on?
Posted on 4/2/17 at 6:13 pm to broadhead
The damage was done when the pipe broke and the vacuum was lost. I'm sure it ran without water for a while before I heard it
But yes, I filled basket before the restart, even though I believe it's a self priming pump
But yes, I filled basket before the restart, even though I believe it's a self priming pump
Posted on 4/2/17 at 6:52 pm to xenon16
Sounds stupid, but make sure you're getting a good ground.
Also, those motors aren't hard to replace at all. I replaced mine last year in about 20-30 minutes. Watching the milwrights at work paid off I guess.
Also, those motors aren't hard to replace at all. I replaced mine last year in about 20-30 minutes. Watching the milwrights at work paid off I guess.
Posted on 4/2/17 at 7:01 pm to xenon16
Make sure you actually have 220v to motor, buzzing could be lugging. First things first.
Posted on 4/2/17 at 7:44 pm to broadhead
Those pumps should be self priming
Posted on 4/2/17 at 8:22 pm to djangochained
quote:
Those pumps should be self priming
In a perfect world yes but throwing in a few restrictions such as sand filter and the undoubtedly still closed valve on top of it they don't do so well.
Ya got an airlock my friend.
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