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Couple questions about the release process (food plots)
Posted on 3/19/24 at 8:02 pm
Posted on 3/19/24 at 8:02 pm
I’m looking at doing food plots this year and getting into some kind of system. All in all it will be about 10-12 acres.
I’ve been tilling, broadcasting, and Culti packing for years. I’ve recently been looking into the release process. However, one part doesn’t make sense to me….
If crimping lays down the old growth to make a mat that provides mulch, and protects against weeds then how does the sun get to the seeds you want to grow? Wouldn’t the same mulch that blocks the sun from weeds also block it from the planted seeds?
Trying to wrap my head around what I want to do. The release process sounds great in that it would save time and get away from fertilizer and herbacides. I’m just wanting to figure it out before making that kind of investment. Would appreciate any and all input. Tia
I’ve been tilling, broadcasting, and Culti packing for years. I’ve recently been looking into the release process. However, one part doesn’t make sense to me….
If crimping lays down the old growth to make a mat that provides mulch, and protects against weeds then how does the sun get to the seeds you want to grow? Wouldn’t the same mulch that blocks the sun from weeds also block it from the planted seeds?
Trying to wrap my head around what I want to do. The release process sounds great in that it would save time and get away from fertilizer and herbacides. I’m just wanting to figure it out before making that kind of investment. Would appreciate any and all input. Tia
3
Posted on 3/19/24 at 9:01 pm to PT24-7
There can be too much of a mat, just like you can plant seeds too deep.
Also, do it for the time savings. I don’t know how guaranteed the ‘fewer inputs’ part is.
Also, do it for the time savings. I don’t know how guaranteed the ‘fewer inputs’ part is.
This post was edited on 3/19/24 at 9:02 pm
Posted on 3/19/24 at 11:17 pm to turkish
For the most part the plantings don’t need a lot of direct sunlight just rather the UV rays and protection to outgrow weeds. They will get plenty of sun once they make it past a certain stage. It’s natural. Look up the buffalo method on YouTube
Posted on 3/20/24 at 8:02 am to PT24-7
Sun is not as important as soil temperature for germination. When you plant with the no till drill after it creates the small space in the mat to allow the planted seed to come though and blocks the weeds in the periphery.
I think there are easier/less expensive ways to get organic material into the soil. Turnips and daikons disced into the ground after maturity can provide some good material.
I don’t worry about spraying plots that I can get a disc to. Discing and planting makes a good enough plot for wildlife.
With that said if I had the means to get a no till drill I would do it. To me the biggest benefit is the soil moisture retainment when planting.
I think there are easier/less expensive ways to get organic material into the soil. Turnips and daikons disced into the ground after maturity can provide some good material.
I don’t worry about spraying plots that I can get a disc to. Discing and planting makes a good enough plot for wildlife.
With that said if I had the means to get a no till drill I would do it. To me the biggest benefit is the soil moisture retainment when planting.
Posted on 3/20/24 at 8:47 am to The Levee
I’m aware. Been reading about folks doing this for about 20 years now, going back to the original QDMA forums. Back before it had catchy names and deals on no-till drills still existed. ;)
We do no-till without a drill (do use a no-till planter for summer stuff) and excessively dense/thick duff is a problem for us.
We do no-till without a drill (do use a no-till planter for summer stuff) and excessively dense/thick duff is a problem for us.
This post was edited on 3/20/24 at 8:49 am
Posted on 3/20/24 at 8:52 am to turkish
If it’s too thick you can spray and wait like 10 days then drill.
Biggest mistake newcomers make is to go cold turkey on the herbicide/fertilizer
You won’t be Dr Grant Woods or Gabe Brown in South Mississippi for a few years so you’ll need all the help you can get. Weeds are ridiculous here
Unless you’re willing to sacrifice about four years of having decent plots. I wasn’t. I bought a sprayer at the exact same time I bought the drill.
Biggest mistake newcomers make is to go cold turkey on the herbicide/fertilizer
You won’t be Dr Grant Woods or Gabe Brown in South Mississippi for a few years so you’ll need all the help you can get. Weeds are ridiculous here
Unless you’re willing to sacrifice about four years of having decent plots. I wasn’t. I bought a sprayer at the exact same time I bought the drill.
This post was edited on 3/20/24 at 8:54 am
Posted on 3/20/24 at 9:33 am to The Levee
Do you know anyone using the smaller Tar River drills?
Posted on 3/20/24 at 9:53 am to turkish
I'm using the Saya 507 Tar River...its 6ft.
We love it
We love it
Posted on 3/20/24 at 9:59 am to The Levee
Do all the no till drills require hydraulics on the back of the tractor? We have a 43hp kubota but no hydraulics on the back
Posted on 3/20/24 at 10:19 am to PT24-7
i dont think so...we only use hydraulics to lift when turning...you definitely dont want the drill in the ground when turning
Posted on 3/20/24 at 10:35 am to PT24-7
quote:
If crimping lays down the old growth to make a mat that provides mulch, and protects against weeds then how does the sun get to the seeds you want to grow?
The same way sun gets to a seed that’s been covered with soil
Posted on 3/20/24 at 10:37 am to Piebald Panther
quote:
I don’t worry about spraying plots that I can get a disc to. Discing and planting makes a good enough plot for wildlife.
Only reason to spray is if the existing vegetation is too thick for the disc to dig properly
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