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Started By
Message
AR Upper/Lower Kit Brands
Posted on 3/29/21 at 9:27 am
Posted on 3/29/21 at 9:27 am
I picked up a stripped lower for my first AR build. I'm planning to buy an upper/lower kits, but need some help on brands to look into. Can the OB provide some leads on good brands?
Some I've seen:
Larue
Daniel Defense
LMT
Palmetto State
Some I've seen:
Larue
Daniel Defense
LMT
Palmetto State
This post was edited on 3/29/21 at 9:28 am
4
Posted on 3/29/21 at 9:31 am to LA_KY
BCM if you can get one.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 9:35 am to UcobiaA
quote:
BCM if you can get one.
Good luck. Been keeping an eye on their inventory for a while for a build I'm doing and they are being gobbled up like crazy.
I will add to the OP:
CMMG (their reputation is hit or miss, but I've had no issues)
Brownell's MOE lower kit is decent
Geissele lower kits are excellent.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 9:44 am to IAmNERD
All mentioned are good. I will also add JP and SOLOGW to the list.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 9:52 am to UcobiaA
quote:
BCM if you can get one.
Great company but they are hard to get.
quote:
Some I've seen:
Larue
Daniel Defense
LMT
Palmetto State
Larue, Daniel Defense and LMT are highly regarded companies. You won't go wrong with any of them BUT finding their lowers can be challenging so expect a premium. Larue does have their lowers listed in stock but I'd call to see if are indeed in stock. Those receivers are billet so you may want to keep that in mind.
Larue complete 5.56 lowers
Larue stripper lowers
Posted on 3/29/21 at 10:19 am to LA_KY
It depends on what you want to do with it. If you want something accurate you'll want to pay attention to the barrel and probably get a decent trigger, which means an aftermarket trigger, not a lower parts kit with "polished trigger parts". Lower parts kits typically include the basic trigger group but you can find some without it for a small cost savings.
Anyway, if you want something to put a bunch of rounds through and you don't care about bolt action accuracy, get a chrome lined or nitrided barrel (or upper assembly) from any of those you mentioned. For a plinker I personally wouldn't pay Daniel Defense prices but that's your call. Above a certain price you're paying for the name, exact anodizing matches, etc, not more functionality.
If you want something accurate I'd look at Larue or one of the match barrels from Rainier Arms; there are plenty of other choices as well. For a trigger I prefer Geiselle but the Larue is almost as good and a lot cheaper. If you're assembling your own upper you'll need an armorer's wrench, a vise, a vise adapter for an upper receiver and a torque wrench. That's why upper assemblies are popular.
Anyway, if you want something to put a bunch of rounds through and you don't care about bolt action accuracy, get a chrome lined or nitrided barrel (or upper assembly) from any of those you mentioned. For a plinker I personally wouldn't pay Daniel Defense prices but that's your call. Above a certain price you're paying for the name, exact anodizing matches, etc, not more functionality.
If you want something accurate I'd look at Larue or one of the match barrels from Rainier Arms; there are plenty of other choices as well. For a trigger I prefer Geiselle but the Larue is almost as good and a lot cheaper. If you're assembling your own upper you'll need an armorer's wrench, a vise, a vise adapter for an upper receiver and a torque wrench. That's why upper assemblies are popular.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 10:24 am to LA_KY
Parts right now are hard to source, so you need to be diligent. If you use reddit, r/GunAccessoriesForSale is a great place to find parts
Lower parts kits have been hard to find recently. Brownell has several in stock right now. If I were you, I would look for a bare bones parts kit (take down pins, detents, springs, safety, mag release) then source the trigger separately.
LaRue makes some of the best bang for your buck triggers.
Quality BCGs were hard to come by but it seems like supply is starting to catch up now. There are only a handful of manufacturers, but they sell to alot of brands that then slap their logo on the BCGs. Again, u/GenWombat on reddit is a great source for in stock BCGs. He usually doesn't post brands with a poor reputation
As for some of the other pieces you'll need
Daniel Defense, Geissele, BCM make handguards/rails that are light, function well, and are more refined/stylish than most other companies
Ballistic Advantage has really good and affordable barrels that normally have a gas block attached
VG6 makes well engineered muzzle devices
If you're going with a brace instead of a stock, SBA is pretty much the gold standard.
Mil-spec buffer tube, spring, gas tube are all pretty standard and generic for the most part. Buffers can come in different weights and even adjustable weight, but the size depends on your set-up
On my first build, my friend suggested I get an extra stripped upper and lower. As I completed my build, I found that I wanted a different safety, trigger, dust cover, etc. So when I upgraded parts on my primary build, I could slap the old parts on the extra stripped upper or lower. Just make sure to learn from my mistake and don't take your builds out for a photoshoot on a lake. ARs don't float unfortunately
Lower parts kits have been hard to find recently. Brownell has several in stock right now. If I were you, I would look for a bare bones parts kit (take down pins, detents, springs, safety, mag release) then source the trigger separately.
LaRue makes some of the best bang for your buck triggers.
Quality BCGs were hard to come by but it seems like supply is starting to catch up now. There are only a handful of manufacturers, but they sell to alot of brands that then slap their logo on the BCGs. Again, u/GenWombat on reddit is a great source for in stock BCGs. He usually doesn't post brands with a poor reputation
As for some of the other pieces you'll need
Daniel Defense, Geissele, BCM make handguards/rails that are light, function well, and are more refined/stylish than most other companies
Ballistic Advantage has really good and affordable barrels that normally have a gas block attached
VG6 makes well engineered muzzle devices
If you're going with a brace instead of a stock, SBA is pretty much the gold standard.
Mil-spec buffer tube, spring, gas tube are all pretty standard and generic for the most part. Buffers can come in different weights and even adjustable weight, but the size depends on your set-up
On my first build, my friend suggested I get an extra stripped upper and lower. As I completed my build, I found that I wanted a different safety, trigger, dust cover, etc. So when I upgraded parts on my primary build, I could slap the old parts on the extra stripped upper or lower. Just make sure to learn from my mistake and don't take your builds out for a photoshoot on a lake. ARs don't float unfortunately
This post was edited on 3/29/21 at 10:50 am
Posted on 3/29/21 at 10:31 am to The Nino
quote:
Buffer tube, spring, weight, gas tube are all pretty standard and generic for the most part
No, and I forgot to mention this. There are commercial buffer tubes and mil-spec buffer tubes. Make sure you know which one you have because it matters for the stock.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 10:44 am to Flats
quote:That's true, I'll edit my post. Forgot commercial tubes even existed. I've never used one. The diameters are slightly different, correct? Do you know their purpose?
There are commercial buffer tubes and mil-spec buffer tubes
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:09 am to The Nino
quote:
Do you know their purpose?
It was a money thing; the commercial tubes (which are actually thicker) are cheaper to produce because they can cut the threads instead of rolling them. Mil-spec seems to be more common so I just went with that for all mine. Either is fine, you just want the same for all your builds in case you want to swap stuff.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:15 am to LA_KY
Here is an often overlooked thing that people don't mention to people who are new to building AR pattern guns and are tackling a lower build.
The pivot pins are NOTORIOUSLY hard to install or remove without a special tool. On your first time out, you're likely to mangle springs or launch the detent and spring into outer space if you're just trying to do it with standard hand tools.
Luckily, the tools are like ten bucks and well worth it because you're going to spend ten bucks and have to wait to replace those parts that end up in the black hole behind your workbench anyway. You're going to end up buying the tool no matter what you do. Might as well not have to pay to replace the parts, too. I speak from hard earned experience here.
Search your favorite parts house for "AR pivot pin tool". Wheeler and Real Avid are the two makes that come to mind. I prefer and use the Wheeler tool because it's just simpler and comes with a roll pin starter and a punch that is the right size for all the lower receiver roll pins. The Real Avid tool doesn't have this, but it might be a bit simpler to use to get that pivot pin in for a first-timer.
Before you start off, watch videos of installing the pivot pin. Also, watch videos of installing the bolt catch roll pin. That one's kind of notorious, too. Not necessarily because it's as difficult as the pivot pin, but you're going to be working very close and applying force along the side of the receiver (as opposed to directly into the the side of the receiver for things like the trigger pins), so it's very easy to mar up the receiver whacking away at that roll pin to get it started and seated.
The pivot pins are NOTORIOUSLY hard to install or remove without a special tool. On your first time out, you're likely to mangle springs or launch the detent and spring into outer space if you're just trying to do it with standard hand tools.
Luckily, the tools are like ten bucks and well worth it because you're going to spend ten bucks and have to wait to replace those parts that end up in the black hole behind your workbench anyway. You're going to end up buying the tool no matter what you do. Might as well not have to pay to replace the parts, too. I speak from hard earned experience here.
Search your favorite parts house for "AR pivot pin tool". Wheeler and Real Avid are the two makes that come to mind. I prefer and use the Wheeler tool because it's just simpler and comes with a roll pin starter and a punch that is the right size for all the lower receiver roll pins. The Real Avid tool doesn't have this, but it might be a bit simpler to use to get that pivot pin in for a first-timer.
Before you start off, watch videos of installing the pivot pin. Also, watch videos of installing the bolt catch roll pin. That one's kind of notorious, too. Not necessarily because it's as difficult as the pivot pin, but you're going to be working very close and applying force along the side of the receiver (as opposed to directly into the the side of the receiver for things like the trigger pins), so it's very easy to mar up the receiver whacking away at that roll pin to get it started and seated.
This post was edited on 3/29/21 at 11:33 am
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:24 am to TigerstuckinMS
Just finished a build yesterday.
PSA had a kit with Magpul furniture for like $120.
All nice in sperated bags.
Get you a takedown pin detent tool set. Makes that stupid spring wayyy easier to install. They are like $5.
Get a nice roll pin punch set. Putting in the roll pin in the bolt catch is the hardest. I usually tape off the frame with electrical tape to protect the finish from marking it up.
An extra 5/32 punch is helpful lining up the pins for trigger and hammer.
PSA had a kit with Magpul furniture for like $120.
All nice in sperated bags.
Get you a takedown pin detent tool set. Makes that stupid spring wayyy easier to install. They are like $5.
Get a nice roll pin punch set. Putting in the roll pin in the bolt catch is the hardest. I usually tape off the frame with electrical tape to protect the finish from marking it up.
An extra 5/32 punch is helpful lining up the pins for trigger and hammer.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:31 am to thejudge
quote:
Putting in the roll pin in the bolt catch is the hardest. I usually tape off the frame with electrical tape to protect the finish from marking it up.
Use vice grips instead of a punch. Goes in nice and slow.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:32 am to Flats
quote:
Use vice grips instead of a punch. Goes in nice and slow.
That's a great idea.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:32 am to TigerstuckinMS
quote:Or if you're super cheap, you can get a 1/4 x 2in clevis pin from home depot. Not as effective or efficient as this tool, but it cost like $1. Again, youtube is your friend here
The pivot pins are NOTORIOUSLY hard to install or remove without a special tool. On your first time out, you're likely to mangle springs or launch the detent and spring into outer space if you're just trying to do it with standard hand tools.
Luckily, the tools are like ten bucks and well worth it because you're going to spend ten bucks and have to wait to replace those parts that end up in the black hole behind your workbench anyway.
Search your favorite parts house for "AR pivot pin tool". Wheeler and Real Avid are the two makes that come to mind. I prefer and use the Wheeler tool because it comes with a roll pin punch that is the right size for all the lower roll pins. The Real Avid tool doesn't have this, but it might be a bit simpler to use for a first-timer.
Before you start off, watch videos of installing the pivot pin. Also, watch videos of installing the bolt catch roll pin. That one's kind of notorious, too. Not necessarily because it's as difficult as the pivot pin, but you're going to be working very close to the receiver, so it's very easy to mar up the receiver whacking away at that roll pin to get it started and seated.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:50 am to The Nino
Great advice - Thank you all
To the use & price questions:
-This is my first gun and likely only used for plinking and hopefully some hog hunting
-Trying to keep things moderately priced but not buy complete junk. Not looking for competition high end stuff
-Got PSA stripped lower
To the use & price questions:
-This is my first gun and likely only used for plinking and hopefully some hog hunting
-Trying to keep things moderately priced but not buy complete junk. Not looking for competition high end stuff
-Got PSA stripped lower
Posted on 3/29/21 at 12:04 pm to LA_KY
What barrel length are you wanting?
Posted on 3/29/21 at 12:06 pm to LA_KY
quote:
To the use & price questions:
-This is my first gun and likely only used for plinking and hopefully some hog hunting
-Trying to keep things moderately priced but not buy complete junk. Not looking for competition high end stuff
-Got PSA stripped lower
My favorite trigger and parts are Geissele, but from your description that's a lot more than you want to spend.
Some good suggestions already listed, but also check out Rock River Arms. They produce a very nice 2-stage NM trigger that's hard to beat for the price.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 12:38 pm to LA_KY
quote:
-This is my first gun and likely only used for plinking and hopefully some hog hunting
-Trying to keep things moderately priced but not buy complete junk. Not looking for competition high end stuff
You're describing a PSA gun, hands down. Price aside, because prices just suck right now, I'd recommend this:
LINK
1:7 twist, chrome lined, mid-length as opposed to carbine length gas, flat rail instead of a front sight base, m-lok rail. I'm a little surprised it's in stock.
This post was edited on 3/29/21 at 12:44 pm
Posted on 3/29/21 at 1:07 pm to Flats
Bear Creek Upper has been good to me. Have the 7.62. shoots fine.
Man prices have gone up though wow.
Man prices have gone up though wow.
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