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Any diesel mechanics here?

Posted on 4/8/24 at 5:14 pm
Posted by Griffindawg
Member since Oct 2013
6158 posts
Posted on 4/8/24 at 5:14 pm
Specifically for tractors…
Our Deere 6400 overheated and warped the head. It’s at a machine shop now and it gona have to be decked a little to true it up.
My question is since it’s going to have a little more compression can I turn the fuel pump up and make more power ? Thing has 19 big arse head bolts holding it down on a turbo 4cyl. Not too worried about stretching the bolts but maybe I should be?
This post was edited on 4/8/24 at 5:15 pm
Posted by TheDrunkenTigah
Baton Rouge
Member since Aug 2011
17319 posts
Posted on 4/8/24 at 5:17 pm to
quote:

overheated and warped the head


quote:

can I turn the fuel pump up and make more power


I mean frick it why not
Posted by Griffindawg
Member since Oct 2013
6158 posts
Posted on 4/8/24 at 5:21 pm to
Overheated bc of bad water pump and dirty old radiator.
Posted by subMOA
Komatipoort
Member since Jan 2010
1715 posts
Posted on 4/8/24 at 6:37 pm to
You could turn it up decked or not. That 4045T has a Stanadyne rotary pump on it- bring it to an injection shop and tell them to pour the coals to it.

The top end of the engine isn’t your worry- you’re not making a pulling engine with 60 pounds of boost that will pop the head off.

You need to be worried about putting so much fuel to it that you sling a connecting rod out and window the block.

Also, be prepared to have to fiddle with the timing to get it to run right- we just juiced the hell out of a 3306 Cat, and it was a bit of a ceremony to get timed to where it was really happy.

The instructions to the injection shop were “Wind this thing up to right before it throws a rod out of the block- because the truck is ultimately getting a 3406 in it- so we don’t care”

ETA- your engine in stock form in a 6400 is right at 105 hp. They will sell you a marine one at 150 hp.

Don’t go nuts- because you have a powertrain designed to handle 105. If you put a 6400 drivetrain in a bind with 150 hp, I think you will hear things go snap, crackle, pop.

Give it 15-20 more hp and you will probably love the tractor’s newfound enthusiasm.


This post was edited on 4/8/24 at 6:46 pm
Posted by Griffindawg
Member since Oct 2013
6158 posts
Posted on 4/8/24 at 7:24 pm to
Thought about the too much power thing too. Not only driveline but implements . Our 4440 eats clutches up on our mower conditioner. Whole engine is getting overhauled in it right now and I have about 3-4 weeks to get this 6400 back together before first hay cutting.

So regardless of I’d I add more fuel, the added compression is going to cause need for the timing to be advanced?

Side note. We haul our hay with a 2001 379 that has a 3406e in it with some type of tune on it from previous owner. That thing is a blast to drive but not fun to work on.
Posted by White Bear
Yonnygo
Member since Jul 2014
13898 posts
Posted on 4/8/24 at 8:18 pm to
quote:

Also, be prepared to have to fiddle with the timing to get it to run right- we just juiced the hell out of a 3306 Cat, and it was a bit of a ceremony to get timed to where it was really happy
sounds fun. Do y’all hire old frickers?
Posted by Barneyrb
NELA
Member since May 2016
5106 posts
Posted on 4/8/24 at 9:27 pm to
99% of diesel heads are a flat deck and has no combustion chamber. If you flaten a flat surface it's not going to raise compression.
Posted by LSUDad
Still on the move
Member since May 2004
58781 posts
Posted on 4/9/24 at 12:58 am to
I wouldn’t worry about changing anything. A gasoline engine compresses at a ratio of 8:1 to 12:1, while a diesel engine compresses at a ratio of 14:1 to as high as 25:1. The higher compression ratio of the diesel engine leads to better efficiency.
I did machinist work years ago. Best to leave the diesel alone.
Gas, a different animal! Too many things you can do. Cam, ports, etc.
Posted by subMOA
Komatipoort
Member since Jan 2010
1715 posts
Posted on 4/9/24 at 5:50 am to
quote:

99% of diesel heads are a flat deck and has no combustion chamber. If you flaten a flat surface it's not going to raise compression.


That was a perfect way to say it- and a 4045T head is no different. What he really needs to be worried about is if the valve seats need to be reworked because of the head milling
Posted by Griffindawg
Member since Oct 2013
6158 posts
Posted on 4/9/24 at 10:48 am to
Valves hitting pistons? I dropped it off yesterday. I don’t even know how much they’re going to have to take off and expressed my concern with there not being much meat on the head to begin with. They didn’t seem to be too concerned.
My only experience with stuff like this has been building engines for mud motors. First head I’ve ever taken off a diesel.
Posted by subMOA
Komatipoort
Member since Jan 2010
1715 posts
Posted on 4/9/24 at 11:03 am to
Your machinist should know what to do- I didn’t look, but you’re probably looking at a thicker head gasket at a minimum- those should be readily available for that engine.

I’m presuming you brought the head assembled?

Really, you want him to work the head over and magnaflux it.

It drives me nuts when people pull a head off a a 5000 hour or more engine- like to do a short block- and they don’t want to work the head over.

Then, a valve drops a month later and everyone is all mad.
Posted by Griffindawg
Member since Oct 2013
6158 posts
Posted on 4/9/24 at 11:58 am to
Yeah I left the valves and springs in it. Brought him new valve stem seals. Told him to test it and check it to see how bad it’s warped and do the valve seats. If it’s warped though I’ve read the seats will be oblong bc of it? Is that true?
Posted by Barneyrb
NELA
Member since May 2016
5106 posts
Posted on 4/9/24 at 4:05 pm to
quote:

Valves hitting pistons?


If they are you have a rod bearing problem.

If your cooling system is in good shape then it's likely a fuel delivery issue that caused it to blow a gasket. Too little fuel causes it to run way hot.

We bought a tractor one time and during the clean up some dingleberry had pressure washed the radiator from and angle and closed every fin on the radiator. We didn't burn anything up but a new core wasn't cheap
Posted by Griffindawg
Member since Oct 2013
6158 posts
Posted on 4/9/24 at 6:14 pm to
quote:

If your cooling system is in good shape

Negative. Ordered a new water pump and radiator. The hydraulic cooler radiator in front Probly should go to a radiator shop to be boiled out. It was not long ago and the fitting for the air conditioner line was welded back on. But that was before the whole cooling system went to shite which I believe is what caused the problem. There was like mud water coming out when we drained the coolant.
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