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Message
re: Pulled the wiring harness from my fifth wheel
Posted on 4/7/24 at 10:12 pm to GAFF
Posted on 4/7/24 at 10:12 pm to GAFF
Oh there’s no electrical poles inside? It’s literally just a plastic box with wires and wire nuts?
Eta in that case maybe a wire got broken during the pull. It’s possible a wire could break and the insulation only stretch making it appear the wire is intact.
Eta in that case maybe a wire got broken during the pull. It’s possible a wire could break and the insulation only stretch making it appear the wire is intact.
This post was edited on 4/7/24 at 10:14 pm
1
Posted on 4/7/24 at 10:38 pm to dkreller
Yes, it's just your typical metal junction box where the wiring harness from the camper connects to all the wires within the camper.
Is there a way to test the brakes with a multimeter? I know you can have someone push the brakes and listen for the magnets to activate but I'll be solo on most of this.
Also my truck was registering when I hooked the rv up but after I rewired some stuff it's no longer doing so. Makes me think it's a wiring problem and not a wire being pulled loose. I'm just at a loss because with the lights working there's literally nothing else to wire up so it has to be wires connected wrong but every diagram I've seen has it the way mine is.
Is there a way to test the brakes with a multimeter? I know you can have someone push the brakes and listen for the magnets to activate but I'll be solo on most of this.
Also my truck was registering when I hooked the rv up but after I rewired some stuff it's no longer doing so. Makes me think it's a wiring problem and not a wire being pulled loose. I'm just at a loss because with the lights working there's literally nothing else to wire up so it has to be wires connected wrong but every diagram I've seen has it the way mine is.
Posted on 4/7/24 at 10:48 pm to GAFF
Connecting Electrical Braking Wire at Trailer Junction Electrical Box.
First response suggests
Eta maybe try swapping the break away wires.
First response suggests
quote:
Connect the blue wire to the blue and black connection from the break away, all 3 wires need to be connected together.
Eta maybe try swapping the break away wires.
This post was edited on 4/7/24 at 10:52 pm
Posted on 4/7/24 at 11:07 pm to GAFF
I read something about pulling the pin in the break away switch. That should apply full available voltage from the trailer battery to the brakes. If the brakes are locked up then that narrows the issue down to somewhere between the switch and your truck.
Eta it could also be the actual plug. Also reading that those plugs are sketchy. It could’ve been damaged enough to not get a good connection when plugged into your truck.
Eta it could also be the actual plug. Also reading that those plugs are sketchy. It could’ve been damaged enough to not get a good connection when plugged into your truck.
This post was edited on 4/7/24 at 11:08 pm
Posted on 4/8/24 at 3:04 am to GAFF
quote:
Also my truck was registering when I hooked the rv up but after I rewired some stuff it's no longer doing so.
This sounds like a ground. Its basically what recognizes that a trailer has been connected. I know that's how it works on GM. And I also believe if it doesn't recognize a trailer connected, the brake control doesn't activate. Also, if its wired correctly and the battery on the trailer is good, you should be able to pull the break away and the brakes should lock, even not connected to the truck. They usually sound like a buzz at the wheels
Push come to shove, you could always buy an aftermarket controller and wire it in. They're stupid simple.
This post was edited on 4/8/24 at 3:11 am
Posted on 4/8/24 at 6:38 am to GAFF
quote:Nice way of saying “It wasn’t my fault” without saying “It wasn’t my fault”.
Was parking it after the weekend getaway and it got caught on the tailgate. Pulled it completely out of the junction box.
Posted on 4/8/24 at 6:48 am to GAFF
Make a jumper to jump whatever pin to ground in the plug and check for continuity on the other end to see what pin the wires go to in the plug.
Posted on 4/8/24 at 7:51 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Make a jumper to jump whatever pin to ground in the plug and check for continuity on the other end to see what pin the wires go to in the plug.
Explain this a little more please. You’re saying make a jumper and attach one end to a pin of the rv’s 7 pin hook up and attach the other end to a ground (trailer frame?) then test for continuity? How would I test for continuity this way?
Posted on 4/8/24 at 8:25 am to GAFF
Posted on 4/8/24 at 8:32 am to GAFF
Just a short piece of wire would probably work. Jump for instance the power pin to the ground pin in the trailer connecter, and then you can check ohms at the other end of a wire that you suspect is power. Check between the wire end and the frame, it'll either be opened or closed. If it's closed, you know that wire ends up on the power pin in the connector. Make sure you unhook the breakaway battery and any other batteries on the trailer first.
Don't take this the wrong way- you should read up on DC circuit troubleshooting. The first thing to do is identify what wires go where at the connector. Jacket color is largely meaningless with trailers, you never know what the dudes at the store did with it.
Don't take this the wrong way- you should read up on DC circuit troubleshooting. The first thing to do is identify what wires go where at the connector. Jacket color is largely meaningless with trailers, you never know what the dudes at the store did with it.
This post was edited on 4/8/24 at 8:34 am
Posted on 4/8/24 at 8:36 am to Obtuse1
quote:Yep, hazards on and hammer down.
I think they pull your Southern man card is you have a trailer where all the lights work properly.
Posted on 4/8/24 at 8:38 am to White Bear
We always lived by the 50% rule. Half the lights working is legal.
Posted on 4/8/24 at 11:23 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
DownshiftAndFloorIt
I did somewhat that to identify which wires were to what lights. Jumped a wire from a 12v battery to each wire and then see what operated. None of the white wires or blue wires operated anything lights wise. That’s where I assumed the white wires were ground/negative and the remaining blue were the brakes.
To my understanding there should only be one wire controlling the brakes. I haven’t tested the white wires to the brakes so it may be possible that one of the white wires is actually the brake control wire but that still leaves me an odd ball blue wire that goes to something.
This post was edited on 4/8/24 at 11:26 am
Posted on 4/8/24 at 1:09 pm to GAFF
quote:
To my understanding
I'm trying to help. Kust go do what I said to do. It will lead you to the issue. Electricity has to get from the brake apply pin in the plug, to the brake actuator, to the frame, and back to the ground pin on the plug. Thinking hard about how this should work will take you much more time than following the steps to figure out why it doesn't. Simple continuity checks are basically all there is to DC troubleshooting.
Posted on 4/10/24 at 2:35 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
DownshiftAndFloorIt
So I did what you said and I now have two wires on the rv side that I don’t know where they go. I’ve tried connecting both wires to the truck brake pin but the truck still wouldn’t recognize that the rv was connected. I have continuity through both of the wires through each other. I’m not entirely sure what that means but obviously they’re connected together somewhere down the line. Any ideas?
I’ll add that neither wire has continuity when testing it with ground so I don’t think they’re shorted anywhere.
This post was edited on 4/10/24 at 2:39 pm
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