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Started By
Message
re-grading yard / drainage
Posted on 4/10/24 at 8:45 am
Posted on 4/10/24 at 8:45 am
Yard grading question for seasoned veterans of the HG board. Rough sketch attached for visualization.
I live in a subdivision on a cul-de-sac. I will soon be adding and extension to my current patio. Problem is, my yard is graded to drain from back of the property to the road (front of property). The new patio slab will extend outward into an area that will impede water drainage. I already have a low spot up against the foundation that tends to hold water (dark blue squiggly lines on drawing), so I know re-grading will likely be necessary. I do have a good 3-5 inches of slab sticking out above ground level, so I do have some wiggle room to re-grade.
So here’s my questions: Seems apparent that I will need to grade to re-direct water around the left side of the patio extension, does this sound about right?
Also, anyone ever DIY your own re-grading? Pretty doable with a bobcat rental? Or should I just hire this out – if so, how much am I looking at to regrade ~5000 sq ft?
TIA
I live in a subdivision on a cul-de-sac. I will soon be adding and extension to my current patio. Problem is, my yard is graded to drain from back of the property to the road (front of property). The new patio slab will extend outward into an area that will impede water drainage. I already have a low spot up against the foundation that tends to hold water (dark blue squiggly lines on drawing), so I know re-grading will likely be necessary. I do have a good 3-5 inches of slab sticking out above ground level, so I do have some wiggle room to re-grade.
So here’s my questions: Seems apparent that I will need to grade to re-direct water around the left side of the patio extension, does this sound about right?
Also, anyone ever DIY your own re-grading? Pretty doable with a bobcat rental? Or should I just hire this out – if so, how much am I looking at to regrade ~5000 sq ft?
TIA
5
Posted on 4/10/24 at 9:28 am to Sir Saint
I had this issue with a pool. Put some drains with a pop emitter in your front yard to redirect the water.
Posted on 4/10/24 at 10:13 am to Sir Saint
Probably more extensive depending on how much water you anticipate but you would probably benefit from gutters with those on the back side buried and run to the sides of the house. Then maybe an open french drain up against the concrete patio (existing and new). An open french drain is just perforated pipe buried in fabric and stone but not covering the stone with grass or soil. If you can get enough slope, I'd run it past the new extension and end it with a pop up.
If you have enough slope where it will run to the front from there, then that's all I'd do. If not, you could have a small swale cut in like a shallow ditch on that side between the new extension and fence which will make the water run naturally to the front. I have something similar in my yard that works very well.
Lots of videos on Youtube,,,see French Drain Man or Apple Drains.
If you have enough slope where it will run to the front from there, then that's all I'd do. If not, you could have a small swale cut in like a shallow ditch on that side between the new extension and fence which will make the water run naturally to the front. I have something similar in my yard that works very well.
Lots of videos on Youtube,,,see French Drain Man or Apple Drains.
This post was edited on 4/10/24 at 10:16 am
Posted on 4/10/24 at 10:35 am to Sir Saint
You don’t have to re-grade it, there’s easier options as some have pointed out. Also, if you are in an HOA then you may have HOA restrictions or covenants that won’t allow you to grade sideways towards your neighbors.
Posted on 4/10/24 at 11:01 am to Tifway419
quote:
Also, if you are in an HOA then you may have HOA restrictions or covenants that won’t allow you to grade sideways towards your neighbors.
Hmm, good point I hadn't considered. This is likely the case as I do have HOA. Appreciate input from others, french drains or pop ups are something I'll look into.
Posted on 4/10/24 at 11:29 am to Sir Saint
Even if your HOA does not have rules/by-laws about it; most county/parishes do and you would then have to pay to fix your neighbor's yards if you push water onto them.
A fernch drain situation as described above sounds like something you need, especially with the current buildup of blue squigglys against your foundation
A fernch drain situation as described above sounds like something you need, especially with the current buildup of blue squigglys against your foundation
Posted on 4/10/24 at 2:14 pm to Sir Saint
while there are drainage solutions using underground piping, grading it correctly will still be the best bet. how much space are we talking from the back line and from the left and right lines. is there a ditch in front or it just drains into the street?
Posted on 4/10/24 at 3:15 pm to poochie
~75 feet from back of the lot to the street, ~200 feet from left to right at the top of the drawing (long edge, gets much narrower to probably 50 feet or so near the street). No ditch, water drains directly to street
Posted on 4/10/24 at 3:46 pm to Sir Saint
Got it. And how much distance from structure or pavement, left, right, and back?
And how much overall fall from back to front?
And how much overall fall from back to front?
This post was edited on 4/10/24 at 3:48 pm
Posted on 4/11/24 at 9:16 am to Sir Saint
quote:
probably benefit from gutters
I've been slowly dealing with drainage problems for a few years. I hired Samson Services of BTR to work out a solution,and was told to start with gutters. Now 3 downspouts on one side feed via catch basins into a buried 8" drainpipe with a popup at the curb (16" drop from grade at the house). I also had a brick path put down against the house on that side to make it easier to garden.
The simple lesson was that in many cases most of your water comes off your roof. Any sides of your house that stay wet, install gutters feeding into drains or a swale.
An added caution, if you regrade directly against your house slab contact your termite company and get a partial retreatment. If you don't and later need to claim termite damage, your claim might be rejected. Landscape companies don't mention this.
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