re: updating home from vinyl to hardy board..anyone done this?

He said it comes with matching premixed putty? Caulk? Something like that to fill in the nail holes.

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37k.

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That seems high considering you already have sheeting under the vinyl. I had cedar board and batting on my 2800 SF house that had no sheeting for $8000 about 7 years ago.

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Three years ago my neighbor removed all the vinyl siding off his older home with the idea of just sanding and painting the cypress weatherboards under the siding. I knew that was not going to work since I know how the wood siding looked prior to the previous owner covering it with vinyl. Between the chipping/peeling paint and the huge amount of nail holes from the vinyl siding, he decided to remove all of it, insulate the walls, cover it with sheathing and vapor barrier and went back with hardiboard.

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i remember back in the late 1970s around the same time we bought my grandmother a microwave (that was never turned on) the word was 'aluminum siding' and we redid her house which was wood and needed to be repainted like every 6 months it seemed like.

was that a thing? am i remembering wrong that aluminum siding was a thing before vinyl siding?

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The thing I've noticed about how Hardiboard is installed is it's nailed at the top of the plank so no nails are showing on the exposed surface, you sometimes don't get a good snug fit on the overlap.

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I have always seen it blind nailed. where the lap covers the nail head. Also, I'd be willing to bet if you checked the literature on the hardie material they would recommend blind nailing as well. You don't want a penetration no matter how small exposed to the elements.

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Most installers don't caulk under the boards to conceal that gap and I would think especially so when installing planks already pre-painted with the finish color.

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If installed correctly, there shouldn't be a gap, the laps should be tight. Also, if you read through the literature they probably don't recommend caulking the laps.

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I have always seen it blind nailed. where the lap covers the nail head. Also, I'd be willing to bet if you checked the literature on the hardie material they would recommend blind nailing as well. You don't want a penetration no matter how small exposed to the elements.

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And that is what my post said----"nailed at the top of the plank so no nails are showing"


And I've seen enough hardiboard installed to know that there WILL be gaps in some areas under the lip of the plank where they overlap. I'm an old school painter when it comes to houses, but have only dealt in real wood siding, which is always caulked to conceal any gaps between the boards. To me, uncaulked just doesn't look finished.

But if not recommended, I wouldn't do it either, especially on pre-painted siding.

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CAD703X

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Best advice I can give you: The internet is your friend, use it. download all of the product literature, specifically on installation. No matter what product you use, james hardie or whatever, they all have specific installation instructions. Review it, know it. whoever you get to install it, give it to them, tell them to read it and know it. Even if they say, "i've been building house/installing hardie/fricking chickens/ whatever for over 30 years etc", they've probably been doing it wrong that long as well. this is going to be a big investment, protect your investment by making sure it is done correctly. God forbid if it comes down to something going wrong with the siding and you need to go to the waranty, if its not installed correctly the warranty aint worth shite.

P.S.

when they remove the existing siding, I would have a new house wrap installed prior to the new siding. chances are the existing house wrap will be damaged when removing the existing siding. Don't let the siding installer tell you it's fine, the house wrap is just as important as the siding. also, same advice goes for the house wrap, download the installation instructions.

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Emteein

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thank you sir! this man knows his stuff.

I'm actually in the process of putting hardie on my shed to match the house. I thought it would be simple, and it is simple to install but it's not simple to install and look good. Our house is straight as can be and the lap gaps are almost nothing. One 12' wall of my shed is wavy as hell with uneven gaps.


That may be a lot of money, but if the installers are competent, it may be money well spent.

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Anywho dude is doing some debris clearing and job site clean up and has a real nice pile stacked. He decides to light it on fire, melts one side of the house's vinyl

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Seen that done before and makes the siding look like it belongs in a Salvador Dali painting.

My late father-in-law had an outside fireplace under an overhang in front of his house in CENLA he used to cook whole hogs in front of. He decided one year to put up vinyl siding to make the place lower maintenance.

Long story short, we were getting the fireplace lit and loaded with pecan to roast a whole hog and noticed the vinyl siding on the wall nearest the fireplace getting hot to the point of starting to go slack. We hit it with a fine mist with the hose and built a temporary wall out of tin that we placed in front of it to take the heat and not damage the wall.