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re: I’m hiring a contractor to replace my fence
Posted on 1/14/24 at 7:06 pm to Bjorn Cyborg
Posted on 1/14/24 at 7:06 pm to Bjorn Cyborg
quote:Jeeze dude what fricking Karen
Because that’s not what he asked. He asked for advice in dealing with a contractor, but some people cannot help themselves from giving unsolicited advice, or answers to questions that were never asked. Q: I’m taking the wife to “insert name of restaurant” and wanted some reviews. A: 40 posts of different restaurants to go to instead and 10 posts of just stay home and cook your own meal. Same with home projects, vacations, etc. The dude is not building his own fence. If you don’t have any answers to his questions, then stay out of it.
Posted on 1/14/24 at 7:08 pm to TJack
quote:
Before committing to a contractor, it's essential to ask for proof of insurance, including liability coverage. Additionally, request a written contract specifying the scope of work, payment terms, and a timeline. Consider checking references and reviews to ensure the contractor's reliability. It's also advisable to confirm local regulations regarding permits for fence installations.
You serious?
This post was edited on 1/14/24 at 7:08 pm
Posted on 1/14/24 at 7:08 pm to PenguinNinja
Pay that 40pct when that material shows up. 25pct deposit insane
Posted on 1/14/24 at 7:09 pm to LSUDad
quote:
A buddy and I did about, 60 ft. In less than two days. Demo and rebuild. All post were still good.
Why’d it take you so long?
Posted on 1/14/24 at 9:06 pm to AtticusOSullivan
I built this fence between my property and the neighbors. It's the same on both sides of the fence. 164' long with real 1" thick cedar boards. I hired help with taking down the existing fence and digging/setting posts, but did the rest myself. Took a while, but with the level of customization there was quite a bit of work involved.
*Every board is screwed, not nailed. All the trim is either screwed and glued, or is glued and stapled using 7/32" crown stainless steel 1.5" staples. All of the 2x8 top caps are cut on beveled angles and glued/screwed down to cross members with 4" screws. They'll never warp or pull apart at these joints.
*Every board is screwed, not nailed. All the trim is either screwed and glued, or is glued and stapled using 7/32" crown stainless steel 1.5" staples. All of the 2x8 top caps are cut on beveled angles and glued/screwed down to cross members with 4" screws. They'll never warp or pull apart at these joints.
Posted on 1/14/24 at 9:07 pm to Deactived
quote:
People that build fences, cut down trees, etc are licensed/bonded/insured for whatever they are doing.
Should be but a lot aren't. Especially if you are just putting up fences.
Posted on 1/15/24 at 6:04 am to Purplehaze
quote:
Tell him to give you a list of what he will need and that you will buy it using your credit card (easy to return and/or cancel) and have it delivered to your house the day before he plans on arriving to do the installation.
Now comes the trickier part, paying for the labor. If it is a one day install, then use a very old form of payment called a check. If a 2 day or more job, give him a check for the pro rata ortion less 10% each day. That 10% insures he will return
You seem like a major pain in the arse to work for and the only contractors/companies who take on work for people like you are either fly-by-night guys who are about to go out of business, or scam artists who are going to squeeze you for whatever then can then run off anyway. Most of them are going to get to the point to where you pay them check-by-check less 10% then “get too busy to come back”. Bigger, successful companies aren’t going to let some random homeowner be a pain in their arse for 3 days and try to order their materials, etc. and they’re just going to tell you to kick rocks.
Just hire someone reputable like Scott and save yourself the headache of trying to outsmart some piece of shite like this guy has apparently done his entire life. If you have to come up with some intricate plan to not get screwed you’re using the wrong company.
Posted on 1/15/24 at 6:53 am to PenguinNinja
First page- noone mentioned online reviews which is the #1 method customers use today to begin the vetting process.
Reviews
Insurance
Photos
Website
References
Professionalism
Proposal
Gut instinct
Call 2 or 3... then decide
Reviews
Insurance
Photos
Website
References
Professionalism
Proposal
Gut instinct
Call 2 or 3... then decide
Posted on 1/15/24 at 7:03 am to Purplehaze
If someone paid me per day, then on top of it was 10% less, for a back fence, I’d look for another client.
Just get a contract. It’s easy. Probably 2 pages for a fence. Oh, and make sure you get a lien release for each payment.
Just get a contract. It’s easy. Probably 2 pages for a fence. Oh, and make sure you get a lien release for each payment.
Posted on 1/15/24 at 8:26 am to OPFDTiger
quote:
Owned/operated a fence biz for 20 years
Any specific sealers or other maintence that you recommend? Just got mine reached a few weeks ago. Paid 50% up front, but also did my research and negotiated pricing on the front end. Had fully executed contract with a ore job walk and post job walk.
Found out hard way that my home builder buried a shite ton of construction debris.
Posted on 1/15/24 at 9:28 am to AtticusOSullivan
quote:
Not true our HOA got together in pur last neighbor hiod and built a fence around the pool. They used screws. That fence looked like crap 3 years later. I used to listen to them bitcj abput how they took time to use screws and the boards still started warping etc. Nails are plenty good, faster and cheaper.
Absolutely correct. I’m in the process of demoing about 500’ of 8’ wood fence that is 25 years old. I am cursing those damned ring shank nails every step of the way. I was planning to try to salvage some of the pickets (cypress) for other projects but frick! I am having to practically DESTROY the pickets to get them off of the runners. (Still make great kindling for fireplace) Those ring shank nails are stuck in the runners and ain’t going anywhere. I was going to try to save some of the runners (treated) but I would have to pull about 12 nails per foot out of the runners. (Not worth the trouble). Anybody who is having trouble with warped pickets either used shitty material or most likely, not enough runners. My 8’ fence had 4 runners. Any fence taller than 5’ should have at least 3. runners. And frick them ring shank nails (JK). That’s why my fence lasted 25 years. 500’ and not a single warped picket.
Posted on 1/15/24 at 11:16 am to deeprig9
quote:
get a nail gun to affix pickets.
Only if you want them peeling off in three years.
Insist on screws, not nails.
I cannot stress how much this matters for the longevity of your fence.
Posted on 1/16/24 at 6:09 pm to Howyouluhdat
quote:
Why’d it take you so long?
12hours to demo, build, load old fence up. Pick up materials and tools?
I did the job for nothing, didn’t get paid.
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