- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Posted on 7/7/23 at 12:33 pm to Cracker
quote:
Cracker
Any way to contact you about the 80 series?
Posted on 7/11/23 at 9:25 pm to Whatafrekinchessiebr
So, update. My buddy now says he does not want to sell his old LC after all. Said, in the end, he could r part with it and wants to keep it in the family. Some blame him. Hell, now I've gone down the damn rabbit hole on these things.
Seriously debating now on getting a 06-07 LC/LX 100 series or 2008-2010-ish LC 200/LX570.
Bort are basically within the same price range (low-mid 20s) with 150K+ miles on them.
From what I can gather, the 100 series 06-07s are actually better built than than the 200 series, but the 200s have about 100 more HP and don't have that damn timing belt that needs changing every 90K miles or so.
Either way, I figure either of these options will be a home run, but which one do yall think would be the best option for road trips, etc and a semi-daily driver.
Seriously debating now on getting a 06-07 LC/LX 100 series or 2008-2010-ish LC 200/LX570.
Bort are basically within the same price range (low-mid 20s) with 150K+ miles on them.
From what I can gather, the 100 series 06-07s are actually better built than than the 200 series, but the 200s have about 100 more HP and don't have that damn timing belt that needs changing every 90K miles or so.
Either way, I figure either of these options will be a home run, but which one do yall think would be the best option for road trips, etc and a semi-daily driver.
Posted on 7/12/23 at 7:42 am to Jack Ruby
quote:
Either way, I figure either of these options will be a home run, but which one do yall think would be the best option for road trips, etc and a semi-daily driver.
quote:
2008-2010-ish LC 200/LX570.
The ride on the LX for road trips is great, even with A/Ts. I have a 2009 on which I recently had to upgrade suspension components. I really want a newer one, but makes no sense financially at this point.
Posted on 7/12/23 at 9:35 am to Jack Ruby
Built better, not necessarily they are both built like tanks. For a daily i would do the 200 from owning both. For road trips the 200/lx can get on the interstate and cruise at 90 if you feel like it and not feel a damn thing. The lx has an AHC suspension which is a hydraulic based system where you can select sport/normal/soft and height changes under 20mph for what ride you want and a sensor lift will get you 2-3 inches of lift. Either way you cant go wrong. As of now i am trying to convince the wife that i need her lx and she can get something else.
Posted on 7/13/23 at 10:12 am to THE HUNT
Can't help with the 200 series advice since all of my land cruisers that I have owned have been older than 2006 models. But pretty sure everything that you can do in a 200 also can be done in a 100 series. The only exception is the updated creature comforts and electronic gadgets that Toyota overall lags behind in the market with will be slightly updated in the newer series if that matter to you and your family.
I know the 5.7L 3UR-FE is a proven powerplant after more than a decade of service but I believe that the 2UZ is the Toyota standard for reliability and longevity in its modern gas engine fleets.
I know the 5.7L 3UR-FE is a proven powerplant after more than a decade of service but I believe that the 2UZ is the Toyota standard for reliability and longevity in its modern gas engine fleets.
This post was edited on 7/13/23 at 3:01 pm
Posted on 7/13/23 at 10:38 am to Classy Doge
Posted on 7/13/23 at 1:55 pm to Motorboat
Not a fan of the blacked out 20" rims or the damage multiplier brush guard but looks like a decent cruiser otherwise. Anyone thinking about buying it needs to check and see if the timing belt service has been done.
This vehicle's mileage (176k) has it just about due for a second 90k service. I'd make sure to go with new (aisin or oem)fan bracket, fan clutch, water pump, thermostat, belt, tensioners and coolant hoses/heater tees while in there doing the t-belt job unless they were already recently replaced.
This vehicle's mileage (176k) has it just about due for a second 90k service. I'd make sure to go with new (aisin or oem)fan bracket, fan clutch, water pump, thermostat, belt, tensioners and coolant hoses/heater tees while in there doing the t-belt job unless they were already recently replaced.
This post was edited on 7/13/23 at 2:05 pm
Posted on 7/15/23 at 9:24 am to Classy Doge
Just want to add some personal experience of how bomb proof these are, as long as you keep up with the maintenance.
Background:
Bought my 2001 LC about a year ago from someone I know. It was higher mileage at 305k miles, but taken care of. I needed it to just putt around town, pick up kids and go camping locally. As soon as I bought it, I brought it for the timing belt, water pump and heater t replacement to a repair shop in Livingston. The mechanic took it in and had it over 2 weeks (kinda fishy) but eventually called and said everything was done.
As soon as I get it back it's got CEL and not wanting to turn over on start, eventually it would start. I kept trying to diagnose it for a couple months until I had to replace the power steering pump. I decided I would just cut my losses and not try to hash it out with the place in Livingston to fix whatever they caused.
At that point I bring it out to Jimmy's Engine outside of Ponchatoula to get the power steering taken care of, and I mention the intermittent starting and the check engine lights. He replaced the power steering, and dives into the starting problem. Figures out the place in Livingston had cut a wire to the cam sensor and tried to electric tape it back and had installed a part to the water pump backwards causing some other issue. He gets it fixed and the LC is running smooth as butter.
Until.... This week when my wife drives it, which never happens. She calls me shortly after leaving the house and says the LC is smoking and won't go when she hits the gas. I get her to cut it off and I'm on the way.
When I get there I pop the hood and instantly see that the Heater T's that were supposed to be replaced when the timing belt and water pump were done, had broke in half, throwing coolant everywhere. I have no idea how far my wife went with no coolant making it to the engine, but I conservatively guessed about 2 to 3 miles but possibly more. She never looked at the temp gauge, so who really knows.
I get the $20 heater t's ordered and replaced. I assume the head gasket is probably blown or worse. I get the LC fired up and it just purrs like a kitten, no issues, no smoke, nothing I can visibly see and nothing I can hear. I've got a few more things to check but everything seems fine so far.
All that to say, these things are tanks as long as you maintain them and do simple checks. Most importantly find a reputable repair shop that you can trust. The original place was supposed to handle the heater t's and timing belt maintenance, they failed at both. If you are on the northshore or Hammond/Ponchatoula area, I highly recommend Jimmy's Engine and auto repair.
Background:
Bought my 2001 LC about a year ago from someone I know. It was higher mileage at 305k miles, but taken care of. I needed it to just putt around town, pick up kids and go camping locally. As soon as I bought it, I brought it for the timing belt, water pump and heater t replacement to a repair shop in Livingston. The mechanic took it in and had it over 2 weeks (kinda fishy) but eventually called and said everything was done.
As soon as I get it back it's got CEL and not wanting to turn over on start, eventually it would start. I kept trying to diagnose it for a couple months until I had to replace the power steering pump. I decided I would just cut my losses and not try to hash it out with the place in Livingston to fix whatever they caused.
At that point I bring it out to Jimmy's Engine outside of Ponchatoula to get the power steering taken care of, and I mention the intermittent starting and the check engine lights. He replaced the power steering, and dives into the starting problem. Figures out the place in Livingston had cut a wire to the cam sensor and tried to electric tape it back and had installed a part to the water pump backwards causing some other issue. He gets it fixed and the LC is running smooth as butter.
Until.... This week when my wife drives it, which never happens. She calls me shortly after leaving the house and says the LC is smoking and won't go when she hits the gas. I get her to cut it off and I'm on the way.
When I get there I pop the hood and instantly see that the Heater T's that were supposed to be replaced when the timing belt and water pump were done, had broke in half, throwing coolant everywhere. I have no idea how far my wife went with no coolant making it to the engine, but I conservatively guessed about 2 to 3 miles but possibly more. She never looked at the temp gauge, so who really knows.
I get the $20 heater t's ordered and replaced. I assume the head gasket is probably blown or worse. I get the LC fired up and it just purrs like a kitten, no issues, no smoke, nothing I can visibly see and nothing I can hear. I've got a few more things to check but everything seems fine so far.
All that to say, these things are tanks as long as you maintain them and do simple checks. Most importantly find a reputable repair shop that you can trust. The original place was supposed to handle the heater t's and timing belt maintenance, they failed at both. If you are on the northshore or Hammond/Ponchatoula area, I highly recommend Jimmy's Engine and auto repair.
Posted on 7/15/23 at 10:47 am to burgeman
Yep. It happens. The plastic heater tees (especially on one side) become brittle over time and can break with little or no warning. Most of the time though before they fail catastrophically, a close inspection of them or the hoses they are attached to shows pink crusty residue from the leaking antifreeze in the failing tees.
Not sure exactly where you are located but I have a few super reliable toyota mechanics and land cruiser specialists scattered from Lafayette to Jackson, MS. I'd think twice about ever going to the guy in Livingston again.
Just a tip to burp the coolant after you refilled it. Park it front end up on an incline or ramps and remove the radiator cap. Run it with the heater and rear heater on high for several minutes after it warms up. If any air is in the system the radiator level will drop due to the air working it's way to the highest point at the radiator cap. Then you can completely refill it to the top of the radiator.
PS. I'm the guy who sent you the links to the stainless tees, clamps and hoses that I use on fb. ;)
Glad she is back up and running like it is supposed to. 2UZ's are hard to kill.
Not sure exactly where you are located but I have a few super reliable toyota mechanics and land cruiser specialists scattered from Lafayette to Jackson, MS. I'd think twice about ever going to the guy in Livingston again.
Just a tip to burp the coolant after you refilled it. Park it front end up on an incline or ramps and remove the radiator cap. Run it with the heater and rear heater on high for several minutes after it warms up. If any air is in the system the radiator level will drop due to the air working it's way to the highest point at the radiator cap. Then you can completely refill it to the top of the radiator.
PS. I'm the guy who sent you the links to the stainless tees, clamps and hoses that I use on fb. ;)
Glad she is back up and running like it is supposed to. 2UZ's are hard to kill.
This post was edited on 7/15/23 at 11:24 am
Posted on 7/15/23 at 11:20 am to Classy Doge
quote:
Not sure exactly where you are located but I have a few super reliable toyota mechanics and land cruiser specialists scattered from Lafayette to Jackson, MS. I'd think twice about ever going to the guy in Livingston again.
PS. I'm the guy who sent you the links to the stainless tees, clamps and hoses that I use on fb. ;)
Just saw your Facebook message, thanks for the help on everything.
I'm in Hammond, so if you have anyone around here that handles Toyotas cheaper than a dealership, I would gladly take the contact.
I'll probably putt putt around in this one for a few more years, so I'll be replacing things as they go bad.
Posted on 7/15/23 at 3:13 pm to burgeman
I know the 200 series fixed the timing belt issue by using a chain, but what about the other common maintenence issues old 100 series had? Would a 200 require as much regular maintnece of water pumps, etc?
Posted on 7/15/23 at 3:26 pm to Jack Ruby
quote:
Would a 200 require as much regular maintnece of water pumps, etc?
Pretty sure besides the timing belt the repairs and maintenance requirements will be roughly the same since most components and their related systems didn't really change much. The advantage IMO to a 200 series is that they would be newer so in theory requiring less than an older vehicle like the 100 series.
Posted on 7/17/23 at 8:31 am to Classy Doge
Two things on the maint should be though of are the starters and alternators. Just did the alternator on the lx and holy shite that was terrible. Not looking forward when the starter goes.
Posted on 7/17/23 at 10:29 am to THE HUNT
quote:
Just did the alternator on the lx and holy shite that was terrible.
Funny you say that. I had to change the alternator on my 396k LX last year also. Didn't find it bad at all even with doing the job outside on my driveway cement. It took me less than 2 hours to do the job from underneath and I took my time and double checked everything as I went.
I only loosened the power steering pump and used a ratchet strap to pull it away instead of breaking the hoses to remove it. I had no issues removing the faulty original or putting the replacement in place with the radiator and radiator hoses still full and in place.
I bought a 83k OEM junkyard pull for $80 from a trusted source and brought it in for testing at my local auto electric company before installing instead of buying a Denso remanufactured part or a parts house rebuilt crapshoot part with a "lifetime" warranty.
My biggest concern was that the electrical plug would be brittle and break upon removal, so I bought a new one to have in hand in case I had to unpin the old one and change it out, but had absolutely no issues with the original connector.
quote:
Not looking forward when the starter goes
I will say that the starter is another whole different animal with it's location on top in the engine block valley. No way I'd recommend pulling the intake and everything else to change this as preventative maintenance unless I was already in that area to do another job and it was sitting right there in front of me.
ETA:
quote:
Two things on the maint to be though of are the starters and alternators.
I'd be more concerned buying one knowing if one of these had been changed from the original Toyota part to a parts house reman that may have to be pulled repeatedly. Much better option to rebuild the OEM components than roll the dice at AutoZone IMO.
This post was edited on 7/17/23 at 10:48 am
Posted on 7/17/23 at 1:20 pm to Classy Doge
Yeah the 100 series was a lot easier. The 200 i couldnt figure it out without wanting to break something i pulled the radiator. The only one i could find with any amounts of info on IH8MUD was to pull the radiator.
Posted on 7/17/23 at 6:45 pm to Jack Ruby
quote:
I know the 200 series fixed the timing belt issue by using a chain, but what about the other common maintenence issues old 100 series had? Would a 200 require as much regular maintnece of water pumps, etc?
I wouldn't say fixed, the timing chains do stretch and have to be replaced, along with the guides, eventually. After having done timing belt, cam seals, and water pump on a 100 series myself, it's not that big of a deal. You can buy kits with all OEM parts necessary, only need few special tools that are easy to find.
Posted on 10/28/23 at 8:25 am to Jack Ruby
I currently drive a 2011 Tundra. I’m considering buying a LC (1 owner) from a lady I know. This will not be replacing my tundra or be a daily driver, but a secondary vehicle just to mod a little and kick around in. The particular LC I’m looking at has quite a bit of, uh, “patina”. This is fine by me as I don’t plan to paint it or re-do the interior anytime soon (but may consider it on down the road.) The LC in question is a 2000 with 225,000 miles. It has been parked and not cranked in “a year and a half”. It ran when it was parked, but was parked because “the battery kept running down, I ended up getting frustrated and just stopped driving it.” Possibly just an alternator? Loose belt? This lady has a smaller car as a primary driver due to driving 40 miles one way to work every day (the LC used to be the daily driver hence the mileage). Since it has been sitting and not cranked for so long I’m unsure of how to proceed when I go to inspect it. Should I hook up a battery and try to crank it? Carry a 5 gallon can of gas and study on a way to rig it to bypass the gas currently sitting in the tank of the LC?
The only things she knows that are wrong with it are: Paint, cracks in dash, worn out hood struts, radio doesn’t work, some slack in the steering, tires look good but I don’t know how old they are and may need replacing. and of course the battery issue. Known maintenance aside from oil changes: 12/10 replaced ignition coil #2 and #5, 3/13 replaced belt tensioner, 4/13 ignition coil #3 and #4 and all spark plugs, 9/14 replaced alternator and radiator, 7/18 replaced 2 ignition coils and spark plugs, and somewhere in there the starter was replaced. No mention of timing belt. Is it normal or unheard of to replace that many ignition oils on these motors? This is a lady I’ve known for 15 years or so and trust her to be honest about known issues. I haven’t been to look at the LC yet, but will likely get by there this afternoon. She wants $2k.
The only things she knows that are wrong with it are: Paint, cracks in dash, worn out hood struts, radio doesn’t work, some slack in the steering, tires look good but I don’t know how old they are and may need replacing. and of course the battery issue. Known maintenance aside from oil changes: 12/10 replaced ignition coil #2 and #5, 3/13 replaced belt tensioner, 4/13 ignition coil #3 and #4 and all spark plugs, 9/14 replaced alternator and radiator, 7/18 replaced 2 ignition coils and spark plugs, and somewhere in there the starter was replaced. No mention of timing belt. Is it normal or unheard of to replace that many ignition oils on these motors? This is a lady I’ve known for 15 years or so and trust her to be honest about known issues. I haven’t been to look at the LC yet, but will likely get by there this afternoon. She wants $2k.
Posted on 10/28/23 at 9:59 am to Jack Ruby
That should never be a daily driver
Who buys a LC for fuel mileage?
Who buys a LC for fuel mileage?
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News