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Santa Fe & Red River

Posted on 8/7/18 at 7:42 am
Posted by LSUbase13
Mt. Pleasant, SC
Member since Mar 2008
15060 posts
Posted on 8/7/18 at 7:42 am
Looking at a week long trip. How should I break up my days? 3 days in SF? 2 days in Taos? 4 days in SF? 1 day in Taos? Is Red River worth it to check out?

Any recommendations on where to stay? Things to see and do? Best neighborhoods? Places to eat, drink, hike, fish?
This post was edited on 9/24/18 at 10:16 am
Posted by Ham And Glass
Member since Nov 2016
1516 posts
Posted on 8/7/18 at 9:01 am to
I can't comment on Taos because I haven't been there, but I've grown up going to Santa Fe which is a great town to park in for a few days. I personally love the long drive from Santa Fe to Durango where it seemingly goes from High Desert to Alpine and back and forth. As for fishing, the San Juan is a big clear stream in Farmington (not all that pretty of a place) with big trout and there are many smaller streams to the North that are just beautiful little fisheries.
Posted by Pettifogger
Capitol Hill Autonomous Zone
Member since Feb 2012
79104 posts
Posted on 8/7/18 at 1:43 pm to
I could use some Santa Fe recs too, going next month.

I've been before but it's been a while
Posted by LilDeuceCoupe
Hooker, OK
Member since Dec 2012
305 posts
Posted on 8/8/18 at 11:32 am to
I've been going to Red River since the early 70's. I spent two weeks up there in July. It's a fun little town. Main street is walkable with fun stores on both sides of the street. Two very fun bars to sit in and people watch. I take my RZR and bikes so during the days I enjoy the high country scenery.

Before you go either place make sure the fires are under control.

I keep a bunch of info on activities and contacts. PM me if you want any info. The city also has a neat tourist center with lots of info.
Posted by hogfly
Fayetteville, AR
Member since May 2014
4631 posts
Posted on 8/8/18 at 12:50 pm to
Things to Do In/Around Santa Fe:

Museum Hill: lots of museums

Fishing: The Pecos and Jemez are probably the closest. Pecos has larger fish. Someone else suggested the San Juan, but it's a haul and the fishing is pretty tough if you're not good (but there are huge fish).

The Plaza: restaurants, native americans selling jewelry, shops and galleries galore. Grab a margarita in the belltop tower bar at sunset.

Railyard: My favorite area to hang out. Good food. SITE Santa fe is a cool contemporary art gallery. Brewery.

Meow Wolf: it's getting a lot of deserved hype right now. Trippy art experience well worth the cost of admission. When NM gets recreational, things could get real interesting there.

O'Keefe Country (Abiquiu) has gotten really cool with an O'Keefe visitor center. You can check out Lake Abiquie, Ghost Ranch, Plaza Blanca and a bunch of other stuff.

Bandolier: cool NP with cliff dwellings.

Ojo Caliente: old school hot springs and "spa."

Lots of hiking all over the area and lots of great day trips to drive out and check stuff out around Santa Fe if you get bored of the city.


Food:
Tomasita's
The Shed
La Choza (same as the Shed, just in Railyard instead of downtown)
Paloma (elevated Mexican/Oaxacan)
Tesuque Village Market
Maria's
El Farol


I could go on about the area. We go at least once, often twice, a year. We'd probably move to the area, but I think we prefer it as a vacation destination due to high cost of living and crappy public school system.

Posted by LilDeuceCoupe
Hooker, OK
Member since Dec 2012
305 posts
Posted on 8/8/18 at 5:35 pm to
You are correct about the schools. It's unreal just how bad they are until you speak with the entrenched locals.
Posted by Ham And Glass
Member since Nov 2016
1516 posts
Posted on 8/8/18 at 7:31 pm to
My family that lives there would agree with your comments about education. In many ways, New Mexico is a confusing mix of great wealth and the third world (when it comes to services, mindset, etc).

For Restaurants Maria's, El Farol and Pasquals are consistent.


As for the Pecos River--there is good fishing there and the river goes from wide to narrow. The Panchuela is a good spot to hike but there are great hikes through the area.

As an aside, witness the laziest attempt at salesmanship you'll ever see when you go to the plaza and see the people selling their wares....they use a stick to push something you might interested in instead of getting up.


Posted by Dead Mike
Cell Block 4
Member since Mar 2010
3375 posts
Posted on 8/9/18 at 11:56 am to
We went to Santa Fe and Taos recently. I would recommend spending more time in Santa Fe, although if you plan to visit Rio Grande del Norte or Wheeler Peak then you might want a couple of days in Taos. You can see the Rio Grande del Norte on the drive in, and it was really cool to drive up through (we didn’t wind up hiking any trails though as we got a late start).

In Santa Fe, Meow Wolf was really cool and lived up to the hype. Lots of good food, La Choza was my favorite. Really enjoyed the brewery in the rail yard, they had a nice sour brown ale on tap. Didn’t really venture out to Canyon Rd like we’d planned to, there are a lot of art galleries out there. It was kind of eerie how early the plaza area shuts down, I think we went to a bar around 11pm and there was pretty much no one around. We stayed at the Old Santa Fe Inn, which I recommend.
Posted by hogfly
Fayetteville, AR
Member since May 2014
4631 posts
Posted on 8/9/18 at 12:08 pm to
Oh! I forgot to add brewery recommendations:
Rowley's Farmhouse Ales (down by Meow Wolf) is really, really good. They have an extensive selection of fairly rare bottles and always lots of good stuff on tap (both their own and others).

They definitely specialize in Farmhouses and wilds as the name implies, but all their beers are solid.

Food is good as well.
Posted by LSUbase13
Mt. Pleasant, SC
Member since Mar 2008
15060 posts
Posted on 8/9/18 at 8:11 pm to
quote:

hogfly



Very nice. It seems like you know the area very well. The more specifics, the better. Can you help with any of the following:

What area we should stay in (looking at airbnb)

Favorite breakfast spots

Favorite lunch spots

Favorite dinner spots

Favorite coffee or tea shops

Favorite chocolate/dessert shops

Favorite breweries

Favorite bars (outdoor patio seating, rooftops, margaritas, etc)

Favorite art galleries

Favorite spas

Favorite hikes near by (scenic, mountainous, lakes, rivers, etc)

Any absolute must-dos
Posted by hogfly
Fayetteville, AR
Member since May 2014
4631 posts
Posted on 8/10/18 at 7:02 am to
quote:

What area we should stay in (looking at airbnb)

So this is a big one, because Santa Fe has pretty heavy wealth disparity. You can end in the ghetto and away from anything interesting. Our last trip, we actually ended up in South SF down by Meow Wolf, which is an area we would never stay in normally but ended up there due to problems with our initial booking.

Generally, you want to stay within the proximity of "downtown." There are four major areas you'll see referenced there. The Railyard, The Plaza, Museum Hill, Canyon Road. All of these are "good" locations in the wealthier tourist zone. Note, when you're looking for AirBNBs for Santa Fe, you'll also find a lot of them that are out in the country. We've done that before, too, and it can be a really cool experience to stay out in the middle of nowhere but only a 15 minute drive into town.

quote:


Favorite breakfast spots


We aren't big breakfast people and generally eat that at our AirBNB to save up for bigger meals later. That being said:
Cafe Pasquals is pretty much the GOAT for breakfast. Huevos Motulenos are amazing.
Whoo's Donuts are really good. Blue Corn Lavender donut is insane.
Teahouse is at the top of Canyon Road and is really charming. Has nice outside seating, too. Good place for breakfast, lunch, coffee, and tea.

quote:


Favorite lunch spots
Favorite dinner spots


Not sure I can really distinguish between these two:
Shake Foundation Santa Fe is a good lunch spot that you can walk up and eat at picnic tables.
A lot of people will tell you to eat a Frito Chili Pie in a bag from the downtown Five and Dime because Bourdain did it on his trip to Santa Fe. It's pretty meh.

I listed a bunch of the New Mexican places earlier, but I'll elaborate.
The Shed/La Choza: Sister restaurants. Similar menus. Santa Fe institutions.
Tomasitas: probably my favorite New Mexican. Also serves sopapillas which are the bomb.
Tesuque Village Market: 10 minutes outside of town in a little converted grocery. Has kind of a hipster roadhouse vibe to it. We love it. Combine with a hike up Windsor Trail or a trip to check out Shidoni Sculpture Studio/Gallery.
El Farol: classic tapas joint.Really good.
Geronimo: super high end. Lots of famous "stars" who live or visit eat here.

quote:


Favorite coffee or tea shops


Ohori's is good coffee.

quote:


Favorite chocolate/dessert shops


Kakawa chocolate house. Has drinking chocolate and lots of other chocolates. Very good.
My wife and son have also done a chocolate making workshop at Cacao Santa fe.

quote:


Favorite breweries Favorite bars (outdoor patio seating, rooftops, margaritas, etc)


Love Rowley's Farmhouse Ales.
Second Street Brewery in the Railyard is also good.
Bell Tower Bar at La Fonda is a must do for sunset. Outside seating, and it's a tradition.
Cowgirl BBQ was once our favorite restaurant/bar in Santa Fe. It's still a great bar, but food isn't what it once was. Has pool tables and such.

quote:


Favorite art galleries


Too many to name. Seriously. Just walk up Canyon Road. Kelly Moore's Dark Bird Palace is a great one, but that's mainly because I know him and have some of his art. He's a cool outsider artist. Shidoni Sculpture is cool to talk around in out in Tesuque. I'm not sure you'll fine a higher concentration of art galleries anywhere than what exists in the plaza and canyon road area of Santa Fe. It's crazy.

The O'Keefe Museum downtown is really good.

quote:


Favorite spas


Two choices:
Ten Thousand Waves which is a really nice more upscale spa closer to town.
Ojo Caliente a further distance and more historic, but worth it. At one time, it was just kind of a hippie place, but they've renovated and remodeled, and it's pretty nice. The natural setting is amazing.

quote:


Favorite hikes near by (scenic, mountainous, lakes, rivers, etc)


Valle Caldera is a cool area to check out.
Drive up to Santa Fe Ski Resort if you want to transition into high alpine from the dessert in 20 minutes. Very cool with some aspens if you're there at the right time of year to see them change. There are lots and lots of hikes and day trips in the area. We predominantly go for mountain biking, so what we're looking for is a little different.

My favorite hike is Tent Rocks, though. It's freaking insanely cool. Hoodoos, slot canyons, great views.

quote:


Any absolute must-dos


Let's put it this way. We've been going off and on for 20 years to Santa Fe. I'm still finding things that we haven't done and need to do.
Posted by LSUbase13
Mt. Pleasant, SC
Member since Mar 2008
15060 posts
Posted on 8/20/18 at 10:05 am to
quote:

hogfly


Many thanks. A few more questions...

When in Santa Fe, I take it that I should stay as close to the Plaza as possible?

Is SF dangerous to walk around in at night? I love exploring different neighborhoods, but I can honestly say I don't know much about Santa Fe neighborhoods and crime.

Is spending a day or two in Red River, Taos, or Pecos worth it? I'd like to get a mountain cabin for a day or two, but I want to make sure it'll be "worth it" to leave SF.

When hiking, should we worry/take any extra precautions - We're coming from South Carolina and this will definitely be a new territory for us

I take it locals are friendly and welcoming to tourists?
This post was edited on 9/24/18 at 10:17 am
Posted by hogfly
Fayetteville, AR
Member since May 2014
4631 posts
Posted on 8/22/18 at 2:54 pm to
quote:

When in Santa Fe, I take it that I should stay as close to the Plaza as possible? Is SF dangerous to walk around in at night? I love exploring different neighborhoods, but I can honestly say I don't know much about Santa Fe neighborhoods and crime.



So Santa Fe is a weird mixture. It has a huge wealth disparity. There are some of the wealthiest people in America there (or at least, they have homes or visit it frequently), and there are also some of the poorest. You can absolutely walk around safely at night anywhere in the Railyard, Plaza, or Canyon Road. When you start to head out to the areas outside of that, things can get dicier. One of the BIG things as far as crime to watch out for is theft and car burglary. No one is going to hold you up, most likely, but you can definitely have shite stolen out of your car, especially if it's parked in a hotel parking lot (a friend of mine had his bike stolen overnight at a parking lot off his truck...bike theft is really bad). Also, most trailheads will have signs warning that they're "high prowl" areas. People will break into cars at trailheads for hiking and biking. Never happened to me, but it definitely can happen.

quote:


Is spending a day or two in Red River, Taos, or Pecos worth it? I'd like to get a mountain cabin for a day or two, but I want to make sure it'll be "worth it" to leave SF. When hiking, should we worry/take any extra precautions - mountain lions, bears, snakes, etc? We're coming from South Carolina and this will definitely be a new territory for us I take it locals are friendly and welcoming to tourists?


You could happily stay there the entire time, but getting out into nature is also great in the area. There are snakes, and my son and I saw two bears over the summer while on a bike trail (Windsor Trail). Nothing is anymore dangerous than any other camping/hiking out west, though. Carry lots of water.
Posted by Zappas Stache
Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Member since Apr 2009
38649 posts
Posted on 8/22/18 at 3:30 pm to
Folk Art Museum is good.
Best New Mexican style enchiladas are at Pecos Trail Cafe which is a sort of hole-n-the-wall about a mile or 2 south of the Plaza. I was disappointed in the "hyped" restaurants that most people will say are good.

In Taos:

Eske's Pub is a nice, chill setting w/ outdoor seating. The beer is pretty good and they have a great Green Chili Burrito.

Taos Pizza Outback is good and on the way to Taos Ski Mountain for hiking.

Michaels' Kitchen is good new mexcian food.

The Pueblo is interesting to check out.

The Earthship houses are interesting if you are adventurous. You may get stopped by a local and questioned.
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