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Grand Canyon/ Yellowstone...

Posted on 4/3/19 at 12:50 pm
Posted by Johnpettigrew
Louisiana
Member since Sep 2017
1633 posts
Posted on 4/3/19 at 12:50 pm
The fam decided we are heading out west for some fun and adventure. Leaving May 18 taking a late flight into PHX. From there we are renting a car and heading to the South Rim for 3N/4D. From there we are driving up to Salt Lake for a day. Then its on to Yellowstone and spending 5 nights at Canyon Lodge. Heading to Denver for a couple nights to end trip before flying back to MSY. I am having a hard time on how to pack for desert, a yellowstone spring (louisiana winter), and then fine dining in Denver yet not have to rent a full size SUV, much less trying to cull thru all the tour sites. Anybody that has been, can you please give me a list of 5 must does at GC and Yellowstone. Neither I or anyone in my family has been to either, except a brother in law who went on a 6 day hiking trip in Yellowstone. He spent no time in the "tourist" areas. Just used as a training step to Kilimanjaro.
Posted by 8thyearsenior
Centennial, CO
Member since Mar 2006
4280 posts
Posted on 4/3/19 at 1:17 pm to
quote:

fine dining in Denver


You'll be fine just about anywhere in shorts and sandals. We aren't fancy up here.
Posted by Bunsbert Montcroff
Phoenix AZ / Boise ID
Member since Jan 2008
5493 posts
Posted on 4/3/19 at 2:33 pm to
quote:

I am having a hard time on how to pack for desert, a yellowstone spring (louisiana winter), and then fine dining in Denver

if you aren't spending any time in phoenix proper, don't worry about packing for desert temperatures. first, early may isn't that hot yet. second, if you're going straight to the south rim, you'll be fine - the temperature up there is usually 25-30 degrees colder than phoenix.
quote:

can you please give me a list of 5 must does at GC and Yellowstone

gc south rim: with a family and kids, you could always hike the rim trail along the south rim. there are even shuttles where you can get on and off depending on whether you're tired or not. el tovar (the lodge at the south rim) is also worth checking out. i've been in arizona for 16 years, and have only been to the gc once :- /

yellowstone: grand prismatic was beautiful and mammoth hot springs was cool too. old faithful was cool to see, but i guess a bit overrated in my book. we did the loop road in one really long day, but stayed in some places longer than others. you'll be in the park, so it will make these places all more accessible. we stayed in jackson hole.

we also enjoyed grand teton national park, just a bit south of yellowstone. we enjoyed short hikes to taggert lake, and then took the ferry across jenny lake to the falls. if you have kids, it could be fun to earn the junior ranger's badge at the visitor center. the rangers also lead short hikes around the area. we actually encountered a grizzly bear and her cubs during one of these (which the ranger cut short). you will see so many bison you'll get sick of them. saw a lot of other wildlife too. and great trout fishing in lakes and moving water if you can get away from kids and family for a bit.
This post was edited on 4/3/19 at 2:34 pm
Posted by PJinAtl
Atlanta
Member since Nov 2007
12740 posts
Posted on 4/3/19 at 2:50 pm to
Agree with Bunsbert on south rim - walk the rim trail and use the shuttles. We went as far west as Hermit's Rest. One of the overlooks out that way was prime viewing for California condors.

Yellowstone - agree on Grand Prismatic and Grand Teton. Old Faithful, you have to do it to say you've seen it. I would also add Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and the Upper/Lower falls.

That time of year the loop road between Canyon and the Mammoth Hot Springs might be closed with snowpack still around Tower Junction/Mt. Washburn/Dunraven.
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
20383 posts
Posted on 4/3/19 at 4:46 pm to
Remember that the chances of seeing someone that you ever see again are slim to none, so don't stress your dress. If you are under dressed for dinner one night, all will be fine.

I'd strongly recommend not staying in the same place your entire time in Yellowstone. Its a huge park and Canyon is great and centrally located, but I'd consider going staying somewhere else for a night or 2. Maybe look at West Yellowstone or Gardiner just outside of the park.
Posted by jackwoods4
Member since Sep 2013
28667 posts
Posted on 4/3/19 at 7:58 pm to
You're going to have to check what roads/trails are open at that point in May, most likely. Lots of Teton/Yellowstone is closed off for big chunks of the year.
Posted by Crow Pie
Neuro ICU - Tulane Med Center
Member since Feb 2010
25293 posts
Posted on 4/3/19 at 8:22 pm to
You will have a blast! this sounds like a super road trip.

Like many said just hike the south rim but I think 3 night /4 days there may be too much unless you going to Phantom Ranch. Yes it is one of the most awesome sights in the world but after 2 days the shock factor has worn off.

Personally, I would carve out 1 night and go to Zion NP (stay in Sprindale, UT) on the way to Salt Lake City. Also work in Jackson Hole and Tetons on the way to Canyon Village.

We stayed in Old Faithful area and Canyon Village last week of May last year and it can get cold so be prepared. 1 night in Old Faithful area to see the thermals on the way to Canyon is a good idea as well.

Finally, there will be a group of Asian's in a tour bus by the hot mud springs...tell them I said hello.
Posted by lsunurse
Member since Dec 2005
128950 posts
Posted on 4/3/19 at 10:19 pm to
quote:

Like many said just hike the south rim but I think 3 night /4 days there may be too much unless you going to Phantom Ranch. Yes it is one of the most awesome sights in the world but after 2 days the shock factor has worn off.


Agreed. Since he will be passing through Page on the drive from GC to SLC...he should plan to spend a day in Page to see the Antelope Slot Canyons and Horseshoe Bend

Antelope slot canyon:
>

Horseshoe Bend:



Can easily do both in one day.
Posted by MLU
Member since Feb 2017
1677 posts
Posted on 4/4/19 at 11:27 am to
There is also hiking The Wave and Monument Valley...
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38620 posts
Posted on 4/4/19 at 1:03 pm to
quote:

Finally, there will be a group of Asian's in a tour bus by every major roadside attraction


moral of the story is GO EARLY
Posted by Johnpettigrew
Louisiana
Member since Sep 2017
1633 posts
Posted on 6/1/19 at 2:52 pm to
So we flew back into NOLA on Thursday night. I have to say this might have been the most amazing trip. It was a nice change from the typical beach/Disney trips we have taken the last decade. While I have been out West (Vegas, LA, San Diego), I had not hit the Rocky Mountain area. First, I will say there is not a picture out there that can replicate what you actually see. The Grand Canyon was way more than Grand. The view at Hermit's Rest was my favorite. Did a little hiking down Bright Angel Trail. Son and I would have went all the way down to Colorado, if not for the wife and daughter. Not their thing. We hit Glen Canyon Dam and Bryce Canyon on our way up to Salt Lake. This put us behind, so we ended up crashing in Provo for the night. We had snow every day at GC, at Bryce, and the first night at Yellowstone was close to 6". Way colder than I had hoped, but being in Yellowstone for spring was amazing. We were fortunate to get to see the following:

Bison migrating to Lamar Valley. Not 2 or 20, probably close to 500 with calves. We walked Lamar Valley more than we drove, because they were all over the place, including blocking a bridge for over an hour.

A cow moose having a calf while a crowd stood there watching not far past exit at Jenny Lake in Grand Teton.

And the biggest highlight for myself happened in Hayden Valley were we watched with others as 2 wolves tried to take down a cow elk. They worked her for about 45 minutes before they tired and left.

In 12 days, we traveled 2000 miles by air, 2700 miles by car, over 120 miles by foot, 5 hotels, and 6 states.

If I had to change some things, it would have been lodging at National Parks. Yavapai at GC was good, but there were better options. Canyon Lodge at Yellowstone was an amazing location to split park into different sections and even spend a day at GT, but it was not worth $450 a night. Had a superior room with a balcony on first floor looking at parking lot. They would not move us, which I thought was just ludicrous. I am ok with no cell signal, internet, tv, or AC, but even with the chilly temps, the room was hot. The only option was opening windows which I enjoyed when people were not talking, slamming car doors, and horns going off while locking their vehicles. Place is nice, but not really a good value. Was way more impressed with Olf Faithful Inn and Mammoth Lodge. Roosevelt did not open until yesterday. If I was to go back, I would do 2-3 at each one of theses.

For anyone planning a trip to these parks, send any questions you may have. Thanks for all the advice you all provided before we left.

One last thing, these places are national treasures, and I am glad we broke from our normal vacations and did this. Bought an annual pass for all National Parks for $80 which saved me $60 if I paid at each NP. That's $80 for the whole car!!! Other than the free museums in DC, I cannot think of "ticket" that gets you more than this pass. Crazy! Anyways, we plan to hit plenty more NP's before it expires.
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
20383 posts
Posted on 6/1/19 at 5:25 pm to
Great to hear, sounds like a great trip. If it makes you feel any better hotels like a motel 8 are $200-300 right outside of Yellowstone NP. The demand is just high, season short, and options limited.

You guys had some quality family bonding time!
Posted by Crow Pie
Neuro ICU - Tulane Med Center
Member since Feb 2010
25293 posts
Posted on 6/1/19 at 9:05 pm to
quote:

One last thing, these places are national treasures,
Yes, it is absolutely fantastic that we have these special places. They make you you really feel part of the humanity and earth itself.
Posted by 8thyearsenior
Centennial, CO
Member since Mar 2006
4280 posts
Posted on 6/1/19 at 10:06 pm to
A camp site in these parks cost $28. Spend about $700 on nice bags, mats, and tents for the family then you are set! Ain’t much better than a day in the park followed by beers and whiskey around a camp fire.

National parks are our country’s best idea.
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
20383 posts
Posted on 6/2/19 at 6:36 am to
quote:

A camp site in these parks cost $28. Spend about $700 on nice bags, mats, and tents for the family then you are set! Ain’t much better than a day in the park followed by beers and whiskey around a camp fire.


Grizzly bears.

Also, that time of year it likely got down around freezing and had like a 100% chance of snow at least one day in Yellowstone.
Posted by Johnpettigrew
Louisiana
Member since Sep 2017
1633 posts
Posted on 6/2/19 at 7:34 am to
Next time will mote than likely be just wife and I, I am thinking o for renting one of those Winnebago/ Mercedez(dodge) chassis RV’s that sleeps 3. It would eliminate the need for a rental car and hotel room, and since there are no utility hook ups at camp grounds, we can just get up and roll.
Posted by Johnpettigrew
Louisiana
Member since Sep 2017
1633 posts
Posted on 6/2/19 at 7:39 am to
I learned from a park ranger in Teton that glamming was an idea hatched by ranchers grandfathered into Teton to stop grizzlies from attacking their cattle. $500 plus a night to either be a deterrent or bait! Depends on the grizzly I guess
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38620 posts
Posted on 6/2/19 at 11:50 am to
man I think our cabin at canyon village was less than 200 night.
it was private, ground floor, away from the chaos near the main tourist area

It was easily the best place we stayed in YS
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