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Argentina (Patagonia) Trip Review
Posted on 10/17/18 at 5:22 pm
Posted on 10/17/18 at 5:22 pm
I posted some pictures in the beautiful sight thread but I figured I'd give one of these reviews a go. I love the trip reviews on here so I'll share this trip I took last month. It's funny because I never saw much talk about Argentina but LSUsuperfresh and I now have pretty similar trips in a one month span.
A few notes on Argentina:
-Very, very little English is spoken. Brush up on your Spanish. I took a few semesters in college and was still on the struggle bus.
-The logistics of getting down there can be a pain, luckily the time change is negligible (Atlantic time is +1 EST)
-Other than the cost of a flight, everything is stupid cheap. The Argentine Peso is in freefall so you come out big when exchanging.
-Much of what you read online says Argentina, especially Buenos Aires is dangerous. I never once felt in danger or got harassed. Don't be a dumb tourist, stay out of shitty areas and you'll have no issues. I didn't get scammed and taxis were super reliable and honest.
-Patagonia is the most surreal place I've ever been. Anyone who is a fan of the outdoors needs to make it down there ASAP.
Here was my itinerary:
NYC(JFK) to Buenos Aires (EZE)
Buenos Aires for a few days
Buenos Aires (AEP) to El Calafate (FTE)
El Calafate/Patagonia for a few days
El Calafate (FTE) to Ushuaia (USH)
Ushuaia for 2 days
Ushuaia (USH) to Buenos Aires
Immediate ferry ride to Montevideo, Uruguay
Montevideo for 2 days
Back to Buenos Aires/EZE to return to JFK
The Argentine economy has been a mess for quite some time. Inflation spikes and the peso has plummeted, that means it's cheap to visit at the expense of our Argentine friends. Most businesses are cash only, if they do accept a credit card expect a nice surcharge. Everything pointed to bringing in USD beforehand and exchanging. This is what $500 USD looks like in 100 ARG Pesos
Speaking of cheap, this is the view from my Airbnb in Buenos Aires. It was less than $30 a night, not a bad deal.
I stayed in Recoleta, a nice neighborhood in the northern part of the city. Everything is super walkable, I pretty much just wandered around until I found a cafe or restaurant. Just two blocks from my apartment was the Recoleta cemetery. Supposedly one of the most beautiful in the world, it is the home to famous Argentines such as Evita.
The food here is insane. Not only is it dirt cheap but they have a fondness for meat cooked over a flame. Yep, that's all I need in life. I have now become addicted to choripan, it's just chorizo sausage butterflied and placed on white bread. Just add chimichurri and you're good to go, cost with a drink is usually around $2USD. I visited this one spot where a 93 year old lady had been running the stand for a few decades.
Steak is king here, the one night I decided to eat like a king. I got this Fred Flinstone piece of meat and a couple of glasses of wine (Malbec is big here) for less than $40 USD.
I did a bike tour of the city and learned a lot more of their history. I am definitely a history nerd but I'm embarrassed at how little I know of Argentina's history. The guide did a great job of describing the economic troubles as well as the terrors of the Dirty War. 30,000 political prisoners disappeared during that time. Families of the missing still protest in silence each week, recently a family was reunited with their missing son of almost 40 years! Pretty incredible that it can still happen. These monuments are at the Rio Plata, a bit like the Vietnam War memorial. A common method of executing prisoners was to kick them out of a plane at the mouth of the Rio Plata, hence the memorial here. The one piece was designed by a man who lost is father to the Dirty War.
Night life is crazy here, people are routinely out until 6 am on weekends. Palermo is the happening neighborhood and I made my way over there on a Friday night. I found some crazy English and Swedish guys who were in port and explored some night clubs.
I also did the obligatory tourist session at the Pink House, it was ok. Area was full of shitty, Western shops and restaurants. I took my pictures and left.
About 10 minutes from my apartment was the national art museum. It was free and full of some amazing works, it's supposedly the best in South America? I spent a few hours walking around.
I didn't get any pictures but I went to an awesome market and purchased a few things. I got a cool coffee mug as well as a yerba mate cup. The porteño's drink the shite out of yerba mate, I now drink some on occasion during the afternoon. I'm very cultured now.
Next I was off to Patagonia, I flew in to El Calafate. It was a three hour flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate. These pictures are just the start of the beauty of Patagonia. Nothing can do it justice. I was lucky to live in Oregon which is incredible, but this is just a different level.
View from the Airbnb, it's hard to tell but you can see Lago Argentina and the mountains. Also, there's dogs all over town here and in Buenos Aires. I've never seen anything like it, each home/restaurant "adopts" a dog who hangs out around their front door. They just roam the town and seem happy as can be.
El Calafate is a decent sized town but it's in the middle of nowhere. Situated on Argentina's famous Ruta 40 it's the easiest jumping pad for Patagonia. From here I planned my trip to Perito Moreno Glacier, El Chalten (Fitz Roy) and Torres del Paine (Chile). Infrastructure here is pretty much nonexistent, you can rent a car but I can't drive a manual transmission plus the roads are mostly dirt. Everything is far, top circle is El Chalten (3+hours away), middle is Perito Moreno (2 hours) and lowest is Torres del Paine (4 hours) in Chile. I also included Ushuaia where I visited next.
A few notes on Argentina:
-Very, very little English is spoken. Brush up on your Spanish. I took a few semesters in college and was still on the struggle bus.
-The logistics of getting down there can be a pain, luckily the time change is negligible (Atlantic time is +1 EST)
-Other than the cost of a flight, everything is stupid cheap. The Argentine Peso is in freefall so you come out big when exchanging.
-Much of what you read online says Argentina, especially Buenos Aires is dangerous. I never once felt in danger or got harassed. Don't be a dumb tourist, stay out of shitty areas and you'll have no issues. I didn't get scammed and taxis were super reliable and honest.
-Patagonia is the most surreal place I've ever been. Anyone who is a fan of the outdoors needs to make it down there ASAP.
Here was my itinerary:
NYC(JFK) to Buenos Aires (EZE)
Buenos Aires for a few days
Buenos Aires (AEP) to El Calafate (FTE)
El Calafate/Patagonia for a few days
El Calafate (FTE) to Ushuaia (USH)
Ushuaia for 2 days
Ushuaia (USH) to Buenos Aires
Immediate ferry ride to Montevideo, Uruguay
Montevideo for 2 days
Back to Buenos Aires/EZE to return to JFK
The Argentine economy has been a mess for quite some time. Inflation spikes and the peso has plummeted, that means it's cheap to visit at the expense of our Argentine friends. Most businesses are cash only, if they do accept a credit card expect a nice surcharge. Everything pointed to bringing in USD beforehand and exchanging. This is what $500 USD looks like in 100 ARG Pesos
Speaking of cheap, this is the view from my Airbnb in Buenos Aires. It was less than $30 a night, not a bad deal.
I stayed in Recoleta, a nice neighborhood in the northern part of the city. Everything is super walkable, I pretty much just wandered around until I found a cafe or restaurant. Just two blocks from my apartment was the Recoleta cemetery. Supposedly one of the most beautiful in the world, it is the home to famous Argentines such as Evita.
The food here is insane. Not only is it dirt cheap but they have a fondness for meat cooked over a flame. Yep, that's all I need in life. I have now become addicted to choripan, it's just chorizo sausage butterflied and placed on white bread. Just add chimichurri and you're good to go, cost with a drink is usually around $2USD. I visited this one spot where a 93 year old lady had been running the stand for a few decades.
Steak is king here, the one night I decided to eat like a king. I got this Fred Flinstone piece of meat and a couple of glasses of wine (Malbec is big here) for less than $40 USD.
I did a bike tour of the city and learned a lot more of their history. I am definitely a history nerd but I'm embarrassed at how little I know of Argentina's history. The guide did a great job of describing the economic troubles as well as the terrors of the Dirty War. 30,000 political prisoners disappeared during that time. Families of the missing still protest in silence each week, recently a family was reunited with their missing son of almost 40 years! Pretty incredible that it can still happen. These monuments are at the Rio Plata, a bit like the Vietnam War memorial. A common method of executing prisoners was to kick them out of a plane at the mouth of the Rio Plata, hence the memorial here. The one piece was designed by a man who lost is father to the Dirty War.
Night life is crazy here, people are routinely out until 6 am on weekends. Palermo is the happening neighborhood and I made my way over there on a Friday night. I found some crazy English and Swedish guys who were in port and explored some night clubs.
I also did the obligatory tourist session at the Pink House, it was ok. Area was full of shitty, Western shops and restaurants. I took my pictures and left.
About 10 minutes from my apartment was the national art museum. It was free and full of some amazing works, it's supposedly the best in South America? I spent a few hours walking around.
I didn't get any pictures but I went to an awesome market and purchased a few things. I got a cool coffee mug as well as a yerba mate cup. The porteño's drink the shite out of yerba mate, I now drink some on occasion during the afternoon. I'm very cultured now.
Next I was off to Patagonia, I flew in to El Calafate. It was a three hour flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate. These pictures are just the start of the beauty of Patagonia. Nothing can do it justice. I was lucky to live in Oregon which is incredible, but this is just a different level.
View from the Airbnb, it's hard to tell but you can see Lago Argentina and the mountains. Also, there's dogs all over town here and in Buenos Aires. I've never seen anything like it, each home/restaurant "adopts" a dog who hangs out around their front door. They just roam the town and seem happy as can be.
El Calafate is a decent sized town but it's in the middle of nowhere. Situated on Argentina's famous Ruta 40 it's the easiest jumping pad for Patagonia. From here I planned my trip to Perito Moreno Glacier, El Chalten (Fitz Roy) and Torres del Paine (Chile). Infrastructure here is pretty much nonexistent, you can rent a car but I can't drive a manual transmission plus the roads are mostly dirt. Everything is far, top circle is El Chalten (3+hours away), middle is Perito Moreno (2 hours) and lowest is Torres del Paine (4 hours) in Chile. I also included Ushuaia where I visited next.
This post was edited on 10/17/18 at 5:46 pm
3
Posted on 10/17/18 at 5:22 pm to Jabroni
Perito Moreno glacier is absolutely insane. I've never seen a glacier before in person, it's so hard to describe the scale. It's 19 miles long, 3 miles wide and 20 stories above water. It goes way below the Lago Argentino as well and touches the floor of the lake. It's also one of the few advancing glaciers in the world at a rate of nearly 6 feet a day.
Want an idea of the size of it? Those dots are boats.
You can tell by the railing that the area can be pretty touristy. The main viewing points were full of Argentines facetiming family to show them the glacier...kind of spoils the beauty. I opted for one of the more difficult areas of the trail that was way less populated.
I then got on a boat which takes you up close and personal. You'll hear these crazy rumbles that sound like artillery and then you see a major calving event. Thank you Patagonia, very cool!
View opposite of the glacier.
Next is El Chalten. A big pain in the arse to get to, I luckily had a great visibility day. I did a nice hike that gave some spectacular views. I wanted to go back the next day but unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate. The weather was incredibly windy and rainy and I was told the trails would be closed.
I didn't really take too many pictures, I just sat there in awe. It's so imposing and feels like you could touch it it's so close. There's also condors flying around everywhere. When one flies by you can see its massive wingspan, pretty neat when they have a hare in their claws too.
There's a pretty accessible trail that was no strain just outside of town with a cool waterfall. This trail was full of old people ripping cigs though, definitely ruins the moment again. It's kind of nuts how you're in this amazingly beautiful area and they are cool with smoking cigarettes and not recycling. You just toss everything in the trash, felt really gross doing that.
Next up was Torres del Paine. Easily the most incredible thing I've ever seen in my life, I will quickly try to get some friends to complete the famous W trek here. I wanted to spend more time here but it was impossible due to the timing of the seasons. This is an incredibly remote area with minimal bus service until the summer seasons. I still got in some good hikes but I couldn't spend the days I wanted to here. Still an incredible place! The pictures can't quite capture the turquoise color of the water.
Torres del Paine is in Chile so you'll have to prepare for a border crossing. The Chileans were no joke, you face huge fines if they catch you bringing food across their border. It was crazy being in the middle of nowhere and then going to this little hut with what felt like a TSA line.
I was able to see the famous Cerro Torres but the clouds in these pictures cloud them. Here's an idea of what they look like.
These peaks were amazing, if you notice the middle is white and the top and bottom are black. Some crazy geology stuff happened and you can google that if it’s your thing.
I did a nice hike that was a couple of km to this great viewpoint with another turquoise lake. It was very windy which made the lake look impressive. If you notice there's a valley in between those mountains with even more peaks.
This is the famous shot of the park, unfortunately my photography skills didn't do it justice. It's absolutely stunning with the blue lake and the mountains sitting right there. This view alone made the trip worth it.
What a real photographer can do
Want an idea of the size of it? Those dots are boats.
You can tell by the railing that the area can be pretty touristy. The main viewing points were full of Argentines facetiming family to show them the glacier...kind of spoils the beauty. I opted for one of the more difficult areas of the trail that was way less populated.
I then got on a boat which takes you up close and personal. You'll hear these crazy rumbles that sound like artillery and then you see a major calving event. Thank you Patagonia, very cool!
View opposite of the glacier.
Next is El Chalten. A big pain in the arse to get to, I luckily had a great visibility day. I did a nice hike that gave some spectacular views. I wanted to go back the next day but unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate. The weather was incredibly windy and rainy and I was told the trails would be closed.
I didn't really take too many pictures, I just sat there in awe. It's so imposing and feels like you could touch it it's so close. There's also condors flying around everywhere. When one flies by you can see its massive wingspan, pretty neat when they have a hare in their claws too.
There's a pretty accessible trail that was no strain just outside of town with a cool waterfall. This trail was full of old people ripping cigs though, definitely ruins the moment again. It's kind of nuts how you're in this amazingly beautiful area and they are cool with smoking cigarettes and not recycling. You just toss everything in the trash, felt really gross doing that.
Next up was Torres del Paine. Easily the most incredible thing I've ever seen in my life, I will quickly try to get some friends to complete the famous W trek here. I wanted to spend more time here but it was impossible due to the timing of the seasons. This is an incredibly remote area with minimal bus service until the summer seasons. I still got in some good hikes but I couldn't spend the days I wanted to here. Still an incredible place! The pictures can't quite capture the turquoise color of the water.
Torres del Paine is in Chile so you'll have to prepare for a border crossing. The Chileans were no joke, you face huge fines if they catch you bringing food across their border. It was crazy being in the middle of nowhere and then going to this little hut with what felt like a TSA line.
I was able to see the famous Cerro Torres but the clouds in these pictures cloud them. Here's an idea of what they look like.
These peaks were amazing, if you notice the middle is white and the top and bottom are black. Some crazy geology stuff happened and you can google that if it’s your thing.
I did a nice hike that was a couple of km to this great viewpoint with another turquoise lake. It was very windy which made the lake look impressive. If you notice there's a valley in between those mountains with even more peaks.
This is the famous shot of the park, unfortunately my photography skills didn't do it justice. It's absolutely stunning with the blue lake and the mountains sitting right there. This view alone made the trip worth it.
What a real photographer can do
This post was edited on 10/17/18 at 5:52 pm
Posted on 10/17/18 at 5:22 pm to Jabroni
Guanachos are these really goofy looking llama like animals that are all over Patagonia. They block roads, make funny faces and supposedly taste delicious.
Lamb is the most popular dish in Patagonia. This lamb dinner I had may have been the highlight of my dining in Argentina.
After my few days in the surrounding El Calafate region I caught a flight to Ushuaia. Ushuaia is truly the end of the world, it's the southernmost city in the world. The city is wedged between these huge mountains behind and the Beagle Channel below. The picture of the map shows truly how far South you are (and how far from home I was).
I did a tour of the Beagle channel, it was really fun but pretty damn cold. We got to see a famous lighthouse and some of the famous animal life.
That night I stayed out too late and got too drunk with some people from Brazil. I was going to hike to a glacier the next day but I was so hungover that I stuck around town and watched the LSU game. I should have taken more advantage of Ushuaia but it was good to have a slow day.
After that I flew back to Buenos Aires from Ushuaia. It was another 3-4 hour flight and immediately upon landing I grabbed a taxi to the ferry. Buquebus provides direct ferry service between Montevideo and Buenos Aires a few times a day.
My airbnb was in one of the most famous buildings in Uruguay, the Palacio Salvo. I had a huge balcony and awesome views of the city.
I rented a bike and spent the full day biking around the city.Montevideo is super clean, friendly and safe.I really enjoyed my time in the city even though it was limited. It also had a very cool area on the beach.
After my time in Montevideo I caught the ferry back to Buenos Aires and my flight back to New York. An incredible trip.
Lamb is the most popular dish in Patagonia. This lamb dinner I had may have been the highlight of my dining in Argentina.
After my few days in the surrounding El Calafate region I caught a flight to Ushuaia. Ushuaia is truly the end of the world, it's the southernmost city in the world. The city is wedged between these huge mountains behind and the Beagle Channel below. The picture of the map shows truly how far South you are (and how far from home I was).
I did a tour of the Beagle channel, it was really fun but pretty damn cold. We got to see a famous lighthouse and some of the famous animal life.
That night I stayed out too late and got too drunk with some people from Brazil. I was going to hike to a glacier the next day but I was so hungover that I stuck around town and watched the LSU game. I should have taken more advantage of Ushuaia but it was good to have a slow day.
After that I flew back to Buenos Aires from Ushuaia. It was another 3-4 hour flight and immediately upon landing I grabbed a taxi to the ferry. Buquebus provides direct ferry service between Montevideo and Buenos Aires a few times a day.
My airbnb was in one of the most famous buildings in Uruguay, the Palacio Salvo. I had a huge balcony and awesome views of the city.
I rented a bike and spent the full day biking around the city.Montevideo is super clean, friendly and safe.I really enjoyed my time in the city even though it was limited. It also had a very cool area on the beach.
After my time in Montevideo I caught the ferry back to Buenos Aires and my flight back to New York. An incredible trip.
This post was edited on 10/17/18 at 5:41 pm
Posted on 10/17/18 at 5:44 pm to Jabroni
Awesome stuff so far.
Please tell me you snapped a few stalker photos of the women. I worked in Brazil for several months and the women are incredible. A funny saying there is “if they haven’t moved to Brazil they are still in Argentina”....funny because soccer wise they are sworn enemies.
Please tell me you snapped a few stalker photos of the women. I worked in Brazil for several months and the women are incredible. A funny saying there is “if they haven’t moved to Brazil they are still in Argentina”....funny because soccer wise they are sworn enemies.
Posted on 10/17/18 at 7:52 pm to Jabroni
very cool trip. I would have liked to see Ushuaia but I only had a week and wanted to get a couple days of skiing in Bariloche. Just curious, what were your interactions with the Argentine women in the Buenos Aires night clubs like?
Posted on 10/17/18 at 8:03 pm to Jabroni
Amazing! Argentina is high on our list and it may have just moved to the top.
Posted on 10/17/18 at 8:19 pm to LSUsuperfresh
quote:Yeah, those Argentine women can be very intimidating. If you don't speak Spanish fluently...good luck. I had better luck talking to them when out of the city in Patagonia. It definitely seemed like most people in Buenos Aires didn't care one bit if you were from the US, no novelty etc.
Just curious, what were your interactions with the Argentine women in the Buenos Aires night clubs like?
Ushuaia also has some pretty good skiing supposedly. The Brazilian people asked me to tag along but I wasn't ready to fight that hangover on the slopes. May be another reason to visit next time you get that ski itch in the summer.
This post was edited on 10/17/18 at 8:39 pm
Posted on 10/17/18 at 8:41 pm to Jabroni
This is a trip I've been dying to make, but my shitty Spanish has been the biggest holdback. Do you think that's a dealbreaker or what?
Posted on 10/17/18 at 8:49 pm to Parallax
It's definitely not a holdback, just know you'll have to make more effort. A couple car rides with Rosetta Stone or something wouldn't hurt. If you're in Western Europe and struggling to speak their language, a lot of times they bail you out and speak English. Just know that isn't likely to happen here. Also, the Porteño Spanish is way different than what you learn in the US. I enjoyed the challenge and pushing that comfort bubble.
I can't recommend the trip enough. I understand the long flight and high cost of the flight are barriers but I don't understand why this isn't a larger travel destination. Amazing country and I didn't encounter more than 3 Americans.
I can't recommend the trip enough. I understand the long flight and high cost of the flight are barriers but I don't understand why this isn't a larger travel destination. Amazing country and I didn't encounter more than 3 Americans.
This post was edited on 10/17/18 at 8:52 pm
Posted on 10/18/18 at 4:40 am to Jabroni
Amazing review. My next big trip is to go to Chilean Patagonia at the Singular resort but this may change my mind. Luckily I have much time to play with as this will not happen soon.
Posted on 10/18/18 at 7:07 am to Jabroni
Awesome trip, thanks for the pics
Posted on 10/18/18 at 8:23 am to Jabroni
Cool trip!
My friend from Argentina built a traditional Argentinian grill/oven setup in his backyard. The food that comes out of that thing is amazing.
Well, I’m off to Wikipedia to spend the day reading Argentina history.
My friend from Argentina built a traditional Argentinian grill/oven setup in his backyard. The food that comes out of that thing is amazing.
Well, I’m off to Wikipedia to spend the day reading Argentina history.
Posted on 10/18/18 at 8:59 am to Jabroni
I'm jealous. Did you do this trip solo or was someone with you?
Posted on 10/18/18 at 9:04 am to Jabroni
quote:
I had better luck talking to them when out of the city in Patagonia. It definitely seemed like most people in Buenos Aires didn't care one bit if you were from the US, no novelty etc.
This was the same experience for me. We chatted up some attractive girls on the ski lift and had planned to meet up in Bariloche. However, BA was a bloodbath. The girls in the club lived to shut you down. I can speak some Spanish but it still was no luck. They would make all kinds of eye contact (nearly staring), dance up to you, and bait you in, then just immediately shut you down the moment you acknowledge them.
As you said, the foreigner aspect had almost no effect in BA. I just told myself it would be like trying to meet snobby girls in NYC vs meeting them on a ski vacation in CO
Posted on 10/18/18 at 9:08 am to Parallax
quote:
This is a trip I've been dying to make, but my shitty Spanish has been the biggest holdback. Do you think that's a dealbreaker or what?
Do 3-4 lessons per day on duolingo.com 3 months or so before your trip. Completely free and helps quite a bit.
This post was edited on 10/18/18 at 9:27 am
Posted on 10/18/18 at 9:31 am to LSUsuperfresh
quote:Ha, this is too true. Shooters shoot but you better bring your best game and then some in Buenos Aires.
However, BA was a bloodbath. The girls in the club lived to shut you down. I can speak some Spanish but it still was no luck. They would make all kinds of eye contact (nearly staring), dance up to you, and bait you in, then just immediately shut you down the moment you acknowledge them.
quote:
I'm jealous. Did you do this trip solo or was someone with you?
I was on my own, first international trip solo.
Posted on 10/18/18 at 9:37 am to Jabroni
total cost? how were the prices on the shorter flight legs
Posted on 10/18/18 at 11:08 am to nolaks
Flight to Argentina: $1200, but I paid more for a direct and comfort economy
3-leg flight within Argentina: $500 (note, when you look on Google Flights the price will be about half the cost which is the cost for Argentines. Foreigners have another cost)
Airbnb's for 2 weeks: $570 (included some higher end places)
Spending money: $500
Transport around Patagonia: $300-400
Ferry to Montevideo: $120
I used cash for 90% of purchases and that $500 was more than enough for 2 weeks. In fact towards the end I started eating fancier dinners because I had so much money left. Cost could vary if you want to go cheaper with hostels or for fancier hotels. You can also book excursions with tours for Patagonia which will be more than bus services.
I also went around late winter/early Spring. Not everything was fully up and running in Patagonia quite yet, I'd imagine some of those costs would rise if you go in their Summer.
3-leg flight within Argentina: $500 (note, when you look on Google Flights the price will be about half the cost which is the cost for Argentines. Foreigners have another cost)
Airbnb's for 2 weeks: $570 (included some higher end places)
Spending money: $500
Transport around Patagonia: $300-400
Ferry to Montevideo: $120
I used cash for 90% of purchases and that $500 was more than enough for 2 weeks. In fact towards the end I started eating fancier dinners because I had so much money left. Cost could vary if you want to go cheaper with hostels or for fancier hotels. You can also book excursions with tours for Patagonia which will be more than bus services.
I also went around late winter/early Spring. Not everything was fully up and running in Patagonia quite yet, I'd imagine some of those costs would rise if you go in their Summer.
Posted on 10/18/18 at 11:53 am to Jabroni
You can count me in for the TD W trek btw
Posted on 10/18/18 at 12:41 pm to LSUsuperfresh
quote:
You can count me in for the TD W trek btw
My biggest regret from the trip was definitely not spending enough time in Torres del Paine. A trip back for the W Trek is near the top of my list moving forward.
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