- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Fertilizer Prices & Food Plots
Posted on 10/3/22 at 2:57 pm
Posted on 10/3/22 at 2:57 pm
I know some of you guys are in farming/ag so my experience with 5 acres of food plots will probably fall on deaf ears...but good lord is fertilizer expensive this year.
sure hope the deer enjoy these turnips.
sure hope the deer enjoy these turnips.
3
Posted on 10/3/22 at 3:02 pm to ZoneLiftGMC
No till and bye bye fertilizer!
Posted on 10/3/22 at 3:08 pm to turkish
quote:
No till and bye bye fertilizer!
How do you figure that?
Posted on 10/3/22 at 3:19 pm to turkish
quote:
No till
When's the last time you priced a drill?
Posted on 10/3/22 at 3:27 pm to ZoneLiftGMC
What was your bill compared to last year, I plan on buying this weekend, just looking for a reference
Posted on 10/3/22 at 3:28 pm to Tigerpaw123
13-13-13 was ~ $20/50lbs bag a few weeks ago.
Posted on 10/3/22 at 3:29 pm to Tigerpaw123
Just did a quick internet search and triple 13 looks to be almost twice as much as previous years.
Posted on 10/3/22 at 3:38 pm to ZoneLiftGMC
Our food plot seed/fertilizer bill went from $890.00 last year to $1470.00 this year. We buy a pallet of winter wheat and a pallet triple 13 each year for all our plots.
This does not include the seed we buy individually for the plots we want better seed in.
This does not include the seed we buy individually for the plots we want better seed in.
Posted on 10/3/22 at 3:47 pm to bbvdd
Way too often! Yesterday morning if I’m being honest. LOL.
There are rentals around. Saya makes one that’s not insane. LP and GP make a min till model that folks with good soil tilth have had good success using in no-till applications. It’s about half price of a no-till. I know of folks that have been successful using cheap Van Brunt grain drills, too.
With that said, our soil tests this year called for almost no nitrogen after several years of leaving the disk in the weeds. Throw and mow ftw. If you have good organic matter and pH, the fertilizer issue solves itself.
There are rentals around. Saya makes one that’s not insane. LP and GP make a min till model that folks with good soil tilth have had good success using in no-till applications. It’s about half price of a no-till. I know of folks that have been successful using cheap Van Brunt grain drills, too.
With that said, our soil tests this year called for almost no nitrogen after several years of leaving the disk in the weeds. Throw and mow ftw. If you have good organic matter and pH, the fertilizer issue solves itself.
This post was edited on 10/3/22 at 3:50 pm
Posted on 10/3/22 at 5:17 pm to turkish
quote:
Throw and mow ftw. If you have good organic matter and pH, the fertilizer issue solves itself.
I just don’t see how this is supposed to work and what is “several years”? I’m assuming I know the practice you are talking about, where some guy started “crimping” the weeds and then no tilling it. What about trees? The prairie used to have fires all the time, so why can’t you just burn it off?
I just don’t see how it can happen over 3-5 years. I can see that practice leaving a “marginal” amount of N, but not 100lbs/A of N.
It is hard to wrap my head around, but I ain’t no Soils Specialist.I believe there are going to be studies starting next year on it, IF they get the grants.
Posted on 10/3/22 at 6:10 pm to turkish
Buy a $15k no till drill to save money on fertilizer 
Posted on 10/3/22 at 6:30 pm to Outdoorreb
I’m no soil scientist, agronomist, or ecologist either, but this is nothing new. I think this has been studied for decades. No need to wait for any studies.
I don’t want to derail the thread but the soil test that was in the best shape nitrogen-wise was one we’ve never planted, disked … anything. Our worst 2 are one that we disk for doves and one that was recently cleared of pines and had much of the topsoil scraped off in the process.
I don’t want to derail the thread but the soil test that was in the best shape nitrogen-wise was one we’ve never planted, disked … anything. Our worst 2 are one that we disk for doves and one that was recently cleared of pines and had much of the topsoil scraped off in the process.
Posted on 10/3/22 at 6:32 pm to Jack Daniel
I like the way you think! As it is, though, I’ll be taking some sacks of N back to the feed store and haven’t ever seen a drill in person! I do have an IH 800 2-row planter that no-tills like a champ!
Posted on 10/3/22 at 7:01 pm to Outdoorreb
How do the seeds that nature drops come up and thrive so well in the wild? No fertilizer is applied to any of it.
Scientists proved a few years back that if you plant at least 7 different varieties of seeds together, that the plants will take the needed fertilizer (like nitrogen) out of the air. The plants will cross feed each other the minerals the other plants need through diversity.
My place is new and most of the plots I created this year after purchasing. I broadcast seed into the old plots then mashed/crimped the grasses down on top of the seed. The seed is germinating and coming up through the old grasses.
The new plots: I used the old cutover piles of rotten logs and pine bark mulch to spread out over 1/2 to 1 acre areas. I then used the soil conditioner on my skid steer to blend into the Sandy clay soil. I didn’t use any fertilizer and the seeds exploded the first week. The deer are absolutely tearing the plots up. Now, I desperately need rain.
Guys, go listen to some habitat podcast. Land and Legacy is a good one as is the MSU deer lab.
The guy with Drop tine seed talks a ton about soil regeneration.
Save money and time and produce healthy soil and plots.
Scientists proved a few years back that if you plant at least 7 different varieties of seeds together, that the plants will take the needed fertilizer (like nitrogen) out of the air. The plants will cross feed each other the minerals the other plants need through diversity.
My place is new and most of the plots I created this year after purchasing. I broadcast seed into the old plots then mashed/crimped the grasses down on top of the seed. The seed is germinating and coming up through the old grasses.
The new plots: I used the old cutover piles of rotten logs and pine bark mulch to spread out over 1/2 to 1 acre areas. I then used the soil conditioner on my skid steer to blend into the Sandy clay soil. I didn’t use any fertilizer and the seeds exploded the first week. The deer are absolutely tearing the plots up. Now, I desperately need rain.
Guys, go listen to some habitat podcast. Land and Legacy is a good one as is the MSU deer lab.
The guy with Drop tine seed talks a ton about soil regeneration.
Save money and time and produce healthy soil and plots.
Posted on 10/3/22 at 7:28 pm to bbvdd
quote:
13-13-13 was ~ $20/50lbs bag a few weeks ago.
It was $22 a 50# sack today at the Amite county coop in Liberty Ms.
Posted on 10/3/22 at 7:30 pm to FrankDrebin
ur food plot seed/fertilizer bill went from $890.00 last year to $1470.00 this year. We buy a pallet of winter wheat and a pallet triple 13 each year for all our plots.
Ours was $2400 last year for seed and fertilizer. My friend that manages our club said it will be close to $4k this year with the price of 13-13-13.
Ours was $2400 last year for seed and fertilizer. My friend that manages our club said it will be close to $4k this year with the price of 13-13-13.
Posted on 10/3/22 at 8:29 pm to pdubya76
$22/50 lbs is what we paid this year for 13-13-13 in East texas. I guess it’s good to hear that, that’s about the going rate right now.
Our bill (like others have said) came close to doubling this year.
Our bill (like others have said) came close to doubling this year.
Posted on 10/3/22 at 9:24 pm to turkish
quote:
With that said, our soil tests this year called for almost no nitrogen after several years of leaving the disk in the weeds
Normal soil test does not show the amount of nitrogen in your soil. It makes a recommendation for the amount of nitrogen you will need dependent on the crop you are growing and your soil type. If you said you were planting soybeans, winter peas or say clover then it would not recommend a very high nitrogen rate. If you stated you intended crop was wheat or corn then it would recommend a high nitrogen application.
But yes a no till system will make nitrogen more available to the plant if you have a high organic content.
This post was edited on 10/3/22 at 9:29 pm
Posted on 10/3/22 at 9:24 pm to Shabath227
quote:
How do the seeds that nature drops come up and thrive so well in the wild? No fertilizer is applied to any of it.
Evolved over millions of years? Why is it that when you clear land of a CRP you have to lime? Why is it that you can look at a CRP with crappy soil and have crappy trees, but even on the same contract you can see where the soil was decent/good and the trees look 100-200% better? Why is it that some plants prefer more acidic soils? Why is it that when you take soil analyses they ask what crop you are wanting to grow? Why is it that some trees can take advantage of a closed canopy when others can’t? What does an extra 20-30 years of growth mean to a tree that has 100-300 years to live and reproduce?
Im not saying a couple years of fallow land with the right legumes can’t leave enough nitrogen to grow a plant, but I can’t see how they can leave enough nitrogen to make the plant thrive and make a yield like it would If you followed an analysis. Maybe over a decade or more, but your crops have to be lacking nutrients until the field is able to produce it on its own(if it ever can). Even after soybeans that leave ˜20-30lbs of N/Acre you have to make up the remaining Nitrogen. Alfalfa? Yea there is the possibility of a lot more N/Acre, but those are specific crops that humans have propagated over many years.
Ms. State is supposed to be looking into this in the next couple years, if they get the Grant money. Even then they will be specifically choosing which plants to plant in the spring and the fall. It isn’t just letting random weeds grow.
Posted on 10/3/22 at 9:31 pm to highcotton2
The desired crop on the test was not legumes. ;)
Page 1 of 2
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News