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Started By
Message
Duck dog tune up help.
Posted on 10/2/18 at 5:40 pm
Posted on 10/2/18 at 5:40 pm
I know it’s my fault cause I don’t put in the training time, but I’m looking for some easy drills to get my dog to go “back” and not stop short. On some of the longer blind retrieves last week he would go out on a line and then stop about 10 yards past the dekes and turn and look at me as if I’d just whistled. I would nick him and send him back but he would only go about 15-20 yards and stop again. I was thinking about starting back at force to pile, but what do you guys think? He was well trained and a decent dog but over the past few years I have slacked up on his training.
7
Posted on 10/2/18 at 5:46 pm to Specklebelly
I would just do lining drills at different distances to both build his confidence and get him going farther.
This post was edited on 10/2/18 at 5:55 pm
Posted on 10/2/18 at 6:04 pm to Specklebelly
Work line drives. The rest will fall back in. This pass Sunday. My daughters pup.
Posted on 10/2/18 at 6:09 pm to Specklebelly
If possible I’d have decoys out where you’re doing your training, he seems to have spatial reference to the decoys and thinks dead birds should be nearby. Send him beyond the decoys in an effort to get him passed the current behavior.
Posted on 10/2/18 at 6:57 pm to Specklebelly
quote:
but I’m looking for some easy drills to get my dog to go “back” and not stop short.
Depends on what you call easy. Your dog is conditioned to stop at the decoys which is also probably the effective range of your arm throwing a bumper. You need a buddy to throw some marks for you well past decoy range but that would require a buddy and for my knucklehead friends, that escalates matters way past easy. If you have kids, then it could go back to easy.
To do it right, you need to set up a decoy spread and have a buddy/kid do marks well past the decoys. To improvise, I can sometimes solo this by just leaving my dog sitting on her Avery stand and just walk a hundred or so yards and toss bumpers she can clearly see and then walk back to her and send her but this takes your dog being able to sit for a while and not break.
Posted on 10/2/18 at 7:33 pm to Specklebelly
If he is collar trained already then just go back to force to pile. Start short on the first day and gradually get longer every day. After about a week he should have his confidence built back up. Then just force to pile with a few decoys set up and stretch him out to about 100 yds over and over. It's all about rebuilding his confidence back up when tuning them back up
Posted on 10/2/18 at 7:35 pm to Specklebelly
I need to start working my dog again honestly. I'm afraid of how she is gonna look in our first tune up session
Posted on 10/2/18 at 8:25 pm to classicgold
quote:
Is he collar trained already
Yes, he is collar trained and forced. He’s 7 yrs old. He marks pretty good, but when two or three fall in the decoys and then you have that wounded one that falls 100yds out, I have trouble making him go for the far blind. I’m gonna start at about a 50yd bumper pile the first day and force to pile. And I’ll get further away each day and see how he progresses.
Another problem is when he’s that far away he doesn’t cast good. It’s my fault so pretty much just send him back and try to put him downwind cause I don’t like to shock him knowing that I’m the reason he’s making mistakes. I’m just gonna have to get back to basics and fix him in the yard.
Posted on 10/2/18 at 9:04 pm to Specklebelly
If he is already forced don’t do it again. Set up three pattern blinds: left long, middle short, right long. Plastic fence post with flagging on them work great. Teach each pattern, one day on each and alternate patterns on day four. Simplify (move up) if he gets confused or gets buggy, use zero pressure or you’ll create more issues. Add distractions like decoys after he is solid, remove posts next. Marks can also be thrown in conjunction with these patterns.
Posted on 10/2/18 at 9:22 pm to KemoSabe65
quote:
Kemosabe65
Thanks I’ll do that with him. I don’t have any fence post, but I have plenty of 5 gallon buckets so I’ll use them instead of posts.
Posted on 10/2/18 at 9:44 pm to Specklebelly
Work great and easy to haul bumpers, if ya have some frozen birds and no fire ants stick one in your pile.
Posted on 10/2/18 at 10:27 pm to Specklebelly
I think you are right. Force to pile. T drill, and swim-by. It should all come back to him quickly
Posted on 10/3/18 at 9:16 am to Specklebelly
Research indirect pressure and how it is used to handle dogs. Mike Lardy has some articles about indirect pressure. Use it instead of burn to leave area.
Posted on 10/3/18 at 10:14 am to stamant70774
quote:this is a good start.. and what MWP said...
I would just do lining drills at different distances to both build his confidence and get him going farther.
two 100 yard retrieves in heavy cover fooled both of mine last weekend... why...
because we were training at that distance....or cover..
and what kemosabe said.. kemosabe.. I am impressed....
This post was edited on 10/3/18 at 10:16 am
Posted on 10/3/18 at 12:10 pm to choupiquesushi
Train at different distances. Dogs don’t “think”, they respond to a stimulus based upon learned behavior. If you train at the same distance and circumstances every time, they will react accordingly. Use a “wall” to train. Wall can be tall grass, brush , trees, lilies , etc. Essentially anything where the dog can’t see the dummy. Start short, drive the dog into the wall to the blind dummy. Increase distance. Then add the T
Posted on 10/4/18 at 2:54 am to michael corleone
Definitely long Pattern Poles
Posted on 10/4/18 at 8:02 am to geauxcats10
I will add that marks THROWN by the handler should be for fun time - not real training...
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