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Started By
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Beam install cost
Posted on 4/10/18 at 3:53 pm
Posted on 4/10/18 at 3:53 pm
I'd like to close in the space above my garage, which is currently walk-in attic space. Great for storage now, but the roof support struts go to a central beam, finished, but visible from my garage. I need those roof struts to go straight down to open up the center of the space. They will essentially become half walls, but will need to rest on 2 beams that I'll need installed in my garage. The length will be about 24 ft for each beam...obviously, I ain't tackling this myself, but I'd like to get an idea of how much I'm looking at for just this part of the project...
6
Posted on 4/10/18 at 3:54 pm to AUjim
350
Posted on 4/10/18 at 3:58 pm to DirtyMikeandtheBoys
quote:
350
...bout that.
Posted on 4/10/18 at 4:09 pm to AUjim
so many variables...
a shot in the dark is 5k
a shot in the dark is 5k
Posted on 4/10/18 at 4:21 pm to AUjim
I just had a beam installed across my garage for $4000.
ETA: The biggest thing is how many utility lines need to be moved or worked around.
ETA: The biggest thing is how many utility lines need to be moved or worked around.
This post was edited on 4/10/18 at 4:22 pm
Posted on 4/10/18 at 4:21 pm to Chuker
I'm not trying to oversimplify, I just honestly can't imagine this job being more straight forward. No obstructions, no wiring to re-route, no temporary support necessary for anything over head. Just need beam and the supports for those beams (king studs?). Once thats done, I'll add new roof supports to the new beams before removing the old ones that go to the center beam.
Posted on 4/10/18 at 4:35 pm to AUjim
There is no need for a beam to be installed under the vertical knee walls as long as your joists are sized and spaced correctly along with the beam at midspan. Typically you will have a laminated beam installed midspan and recessed down into the garage ceiling in order for the top of the beam to be flush with the top of the joists. This allows subflooring to be installed across the entire span. The joists should run perpendicular to the laminated beam and sit on the outside wall on one end and hung into the beam with joist hangers on the beam end. Your rafters bear the load of the roof on the outside wall and should have wind beams or collars installed from one side of the ridge to the other connecting the rafters on each side of the Ridge together and acting as your ceiling. The knee walls will bear no roof load if the rafters are sized correctly therefore there is no need for the beam under them. The joists if sized and spaced correctly will carry the weight of the floor and the kneewall.
Posted on 4/10/18 at 5:15 pm to T4
All this sounds way better. I’m going to snap a couple pics tonight to make sure i’m saying the right stuff
Posted on 4/10/18 at 6:56 pm to AUjim
If the pic doesn't work, let me know.
This is the other attic walk in space that its preferable to close in...
But basically here is what I'm looking at. Floor joists are 2x8 on 16in center. Rafters are 2x6 on 16. These braces go down to a wall that is braced by the foundation footings. My thought is that I can't just eliminate these braces and put in knee walls....If I can, that would be awesome...
This is the other attic walk in space that its preferable to close in...
But basically here is what I'm looking at. Floor joists are 2x8 on 16in center. Rafters are 2x6 on 16. These braces go down to a wall that is braced by the foundation footings. My thought is that I can't just eliminate these braces and put in knee walls....If I can, that would be awesome...
Posted on 4/10/18 at 6:58 pm to AUjim
I charge a lot baw.
Posted on 4/10/18 at 8:14 pm to AUjim
In the next couple of weeks I’m putting up a 12”x12”x20’ cypress beam in my house I’m building. If that helps...
Posted on 4/10/18 at 8:57 pm to T4
That's not true. Many city codes say if the space is longer than 13 ft there has to be a structural beam. I don't know where he's at, just saying that's not always an accurate generalization.
Posted on 4/10/18 at 9:22 pm to Warrior Poet
I own a framing subcontracting operation that frames 600k feet per year on top of being a liscenced general contractor, I do believe that I know what I'm talking about. We frame everything from houses to very large 1,2,3, and 4 story wood frame commercial buildings that are inspected by structural engineers as well as city inspectors so I'm pretty confident I'm not generalizing.
This post was edited on 4/10/18 at 9:24 pm
Posted on 4/10/18 at 9:30 pm to AUjim
Picture doesn't show up, also what is the span of the rafters and the joists from the outside wall to the beam
This post was edited on 4/10/18 at 9:32 pm
Posted on 4/10/18 at 10:06 pm to T4
13ft outside wall to beam
This post was edited on 4/10/18 at 10:13 pm
Posted on 4/10/18 at 10:12 pm to AUjim
Is that measurement to the exterior or interior edge of the room?
Posted on 4/10/18 at 10:14 pm to T4
Center of beam to outside of exterior wall...is the standard right at 13ft?
Posted on 4/10/18 at 10:40 pm to T4
boom
Posted on 4/10/18 at 11:56 pm to T4
quote:
I own a framing subcontracting operation that frames 600k feet per year on top of being a liscenced general contractor, I do believe that I know what I'm talking about.
While I am not suggesting you are incorrect, the issue of local code cannot be ignored.
There are so many odd local building codes across the country it makes it impossible to give firm advice unless you are indeed familiar with the local code. A glaring example is the restrictions in Chicago on NM cable in homes. The way 99% of electricians in the US would wire a home would be a no-go there.
It is all fun and games until the AHJ says no way. IMO building trade advice on a forum should always contain a jurisdictional caveat.
Posted on 4/11/18 at 8:03 am to Obtuse1
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