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Message
Anyone ever dealt with a hole in their water jacket (block)?
Posted on 3/12/18 at 8:17 pm
Posted on 3/12/18 at 8:17 pm
My outboard (2005 Yamaha 225 HPDI) has 2 small holes about the size of a nail head. I plan to JB weld them and see how long that will last. I guess I need to see about having them welded up.
Posted on 3/12/18 at 9:12 pm to GeauxTime9
I used JB weld to fix a leaking water jacket on a jet ski exhaust. Use the original JB Weld not JB Weld Quick. Scuff up around the hole with some sand paper to get a clean surface. Put some JB Weld around the hole and then put a dime over the hole. Then apply more JB Weld covering the dime and onto the water jacket.
Posted on 3/12/18 at 9:19 pm to GeauxTime9
it all depends on where the bad spots are
you cant weld corroded aluminum, its like trying to weld rust. but welding it the best way to permanently fix it.
if there is enough good metal left you drill the hole "very much larger" so there is no more corrosion and its 100% clean aluminum, then you can weld that.
if the problem is in the block or head water jackets then the engine is toast because by the time you find one hole, there are a dozen more bad spots all over waiting to break open next. so in that case just buy a power head (complete block with heads) or what is called a short block (complete assembled block but without the heads on it.
those are you two options to fix it, or just sell the parts and buy a new motor. you would be shocked how much money you can recover selling all the parts on ebay. my suzuki 40hp had a head go bad, i sold everything as parts and made $2800 doing it. power trims and lower units went for $500 each.
you cant weld corroded aluminum, its like trying to weld rust. but welding it the best way to permanently fix it.
if there is enough good metal left you drill the hole "very much larger" so there is no more corrosion and its 100% clean aluminum, then you can weld that.
if the problem is in the block or head water jackets then the engine is toast because by the time you find one hole, there are a dozen more bad spots all over waiting to break open next. so in that case just buy a power head (complete block with heads) or what is called a short block (complete assembled block but without the heads on it.
those are you two options to fix it, or just sell the parts and buy a new motor. you would be shocked how much money you can recover selling all the parts on ebay. my suzuki 40hp had a head go bad, i sold everything as parts and made $2800 doing it. power trims and lower units went for $500 each.
This post was edited on 3/12/18 at 9:22 pm
Posted on 3/13/18 at 6:05 am to keakar
quote:
I used JB weld to fix a leaking water jacket on a jet ski exhaust. Use the original JB Weld not JB Weld Quick. Scuff up around the hole with some sand paper to get a clean surface. Put some JB Weld around the hole and then put a dime over the hole. Then apply more JB Weld covering the dime and onto the water jacket.
Not sure a dime will be best for this situation. The hole is on a rounded edge.
Posted on 3/13/18 at 6:17 am to GeauxTime9
Depending on the size of the hole you might be able to drill it out (getting into good metal), tap it, and install a stainless set screw for a permanent repair. If you can do this make sure to use red loctite on the plug with installing it.
Posted on 3/13/18 at 8:31 am to GeauxTime9
The water jacket psi will usually run less than 30 psi in any given area of that motor from idle to 6000 rpms. JB WELD WILL NOT be sufficient long term for 2 reasons, #1 it does not stand up to any PSI force for very long at a time and #2 is it gets harder with time causing it to become more and more brittle and the vibration of that engine will cause it to fail and you'll be reapplying or second guessing your work nd prep.
There are 2 products I recommend and will last the lifetime of the engine unless you have more internal wear and failure unseen overtime. #1 BELZONA, most expensive ($100-$150) pint, but is rated for over 500psi and can handle engine vibration never get brittle. I have formed it to fill crankcase holes from rods going thru the side of the block and it still holding today. About 5 year test it has been under. #2 PC-11 Marine epoxy($30) good to 100psi can handle the vibration and not get brittle over time. I have probably repaired 50 plus water jacket holes with one or both materials over the years. I have had 1 failure and I learned from that mistake. That mistake was prep work. Clean the surface twice the size as the hole itself. Remove paint down to bare metal and rough it up so it takes. DO NOT APPLY OVER PAINT OR ON A SLICK SURFACE that is failure waiting to happen. Mix it properly according to directions DO NOT guess, measure it. Allow proper cure time as per instructions. Ill stand by both of these. Davy Hite(BASS fisherman) can vouch. In the Delta during practice(Wednesday or Thursday cant remember) day a few years back he had a pin hole in the water jacket. We wandered over to the launch and saw his cowling off. We found the hole and offered to fix it right there. About an hour later he was waiting on cure time at the hotel. He took our # and called us Sunday night on his drive back home to thank us. Got a Christmas card from him 9 months later thanking us again with a pic of the repair and only one statement. "still holding strong" It made it thru an entire BASS season and those boys are hard on equipment.
There are 2 products I recommend and will last the lifetime of the engine unless you have more internal wear and failure unseen overtime. #1 BELZONA, most expensive ($100-$150) pint, but is rated for over 500psi and can handle engine vibration never get brittle. I have formed it to fill crankcase holes from rods going thru the side of the block and it still holding today. About 5 year test it has been under. #2 PC-11 Marine epoxy($30) good to 100psi can handle the vibration and not get brittle over time. I have probably repaired 50 plus water jacket holes with one or both materials over the years. I have had 1 failure and I learned from that mistake. That mistake was prep work. Clean the surface twice the size as the hole itself. Remove paint down to bare metal and rough it up so it takes. DO NOT APPLY OVER PAINT OR ON A SLICK SURFACE that is failure waiting to happen. Mix it properly according to directions DO NOT guess, measure it. Allow proper cure time as per instructions. Ill stand by both of these. Davy Hite(BASS fisherman) can vouch. In the Delta during practice(Wednesday or Thursday cant remember) day a few years back he had a pin hole in the water jacket. We wandered over to the launch and saw his cowling off. We found the hole and offered to fix it right there. About an hour later he was waiting on cure time at the hotel. He took our # and called us Sunday night on his drive back home to thank us. Got a Christmas card from him 9 months later thanking us again with a pic of the repair and only one statement. "still holding strong" It made it thru an entire BASS season and those boys are hard on equipment.
Posted on 3/13/18 at 8:50 am to Boat Motor Bandit
Second thing I have learned is trying to drill or weld has led to epic costly failures more than it has helped. For the simple reason is that it is already thinned, cracked, salt corroded, brittle water jacket. A lot of unknowns in a water jacket leak that may not can handle any heat or a drill bit. I've had a pin hole turn into almost unfixable one inch holes in a blink of an eye.
Posted on 3/13/18 at 12:02 pm to Boat Motor Bandit
quote:
There are 2 products I recommend and will last the lifetime of the engine unless you have more internal wear and failure unseen overtime. #1 BELZONA, most expensive ($100-$150) pint, but is rated for over 500psi and can handle engine vibration never get brittle. I have formed it to fill crankcase holes from rods going thru the side of the block and it still holding today. About 5 year test it has been under. #2 PC-11 Marine epoxy($30) good to 100psi can handle the vibration and not get brittle over time. I have probably repaired 50 plus water jacket holes with one or both materials over the years. I have had 1 failure and I learned from that mistake. That mistake was prep work. Clean the surface twice the size as the hole itself. Remove paint down to bare metal and rough it up so it takes. DO NOT APPLY OVER PAINT OR ON A SLICK SURFACE that is failure waiting to happen. Mix it properly according to directions DO NOT guess, measure it. Allow proper cure time as per instructions. Ill stand by both of these. Davy Hite(BASS fisherman) can vouch. In the Delta during practice(Wednesday or Thursday cant remember) day a few years back he had a pin hole in the water jacket. We wandered over to the launch and saw his cowling off. We found the hole and offered to fix it right there. About an hour later he was waiting on cure time at the hotel. He took our # and called us Sunday night on his drive back home to thank us. Got a Christmas card from him 9 months later thanking us again with a pic of the repair and only one statement. "still holding strong" It made it thru an entire BASS season and those boys are hard on equipment.
A lot of great information, i appreciate the reply. I will be giving one of your options a try. Thanks again
Posted on 3/13/18 at 12:20 pm to GeauxTime9
quote:
Boat Motor Bandit
Is Belzona 1111 the product you were refering to?
Posted on 3/13/18 at 2:53 pm to GeauxTime9
yes sir 1000 series metallic polymer, I have read an used different ones for different applications
Posted on 3/13/18 at 4:08 pm to Boat Motor Bandit
Yeah, i called and they recommended belzona 1212 which is $130 for the smallest amount. Thats a lot, haha. I'll get it cleaned up tonight and decide what i want to do.
What did you do to roughen up the surface? I plan to clean it up with a SS wire wheel then some sand paper? Is this the best way?
What did you do to roughen up the surface? I plan to clean it up with a SS wire wheel then some sand paper? Is this the best way?
Posted on 3/13/18 at 8:35 pm to Boat Motor Bandit
quote:
Boat Motor Bandit
You mind shooting me and email? I have a few questions for you.
Geauxtime9@yahoo.com, let me know when you send it I never check that email.
Posted on 5/18/22 at 11:04 pm to Boat Motor Bandit
Researching this issue for my 05 F225. Just got the boat last year. The engine started no problem after winterizing. However, piss hole stopped after a few minutes. Pulled lower unit and anodes (replaced) flush water up through cooling supply and flush out a lot of crap. I had already replaced thermostats and impeller mid-season last year. Put everything back hooked up flush connection and got a good stream. Used muffs and ran the engine getting a good stream as well.I think I used flush port one more time to double check. Dropped in the water a week later and the engine would not crank. Starter engaged but would not spin. I was unable to spin flywheel by hand. Pulled my plugs and spun the flywheel. I was able to crank with the starter. Looked like water came out of the lower starboard cylinder. (don’t know the cylinder numbering). Replaced the plugs and it started right up. Ran the boat up to 5400 (twin engines). Compression check shows180 on all cylinders. No evidence of water after running. Exhausts kits and oil pump were done in 2016.Ran two trips fishing,no water after trips. Ran up to 5400 RPMs. Do you have any photos or videos of any of the repairs. I have some belzona from thermostat housing corrosion hole.
This post was edited on 5/19/22 at 4:24 am
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