- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
2 stroke outboard regular maintenance
Posted on 6/16/20 at 8:31 pm
Posted on 6/16/20 at 8:31 pm
My water pump blew, so I’m going to replace that this weekend. While I’m at it, I ordered spark plugs and gear oil for the lower unit. What else am I missing?
Also, what’s the best way to clean the carbs without actually taking them apart? Is that possible? I’m assuming SeaFoam. Right now the motor runs good, and I don’t suspect the carbs are gummed up. This is more of a preventative thing to do while I’m tinkering.
Also, what’s the best way to clean the carbs without actually taking them apart? Is that possible? I’m assuming SeaFoam. Right now the motor runs good, and I don’t suspect the carbs are gummed up. This is more of a preventative thing to do while I’m tinkering.
10
Posted on 6/16/20 at 8:45 pm to spudz
You prettymuch covered the routine. I will usually replace fuel lines while I’m in there, but it’s not really necessary.
Running some sea foam could be considered routine maintenance, but it won’t do much for the carb. The first step in cleaning a carburetor will always be taking it apart, but it’s one of those things that you don’t fix if it ain’t broke. If it hasn’t given you trouble I wouldn’t touch it.
Running some sea foam could be considered routine maintenance, but it won’t do much for the carb. The first step in cleaning a carburetor will always be taking it apart, but it’s one of those things that you don’t fix if it ain’t broke. If it hasn’t given you trouble I wouldn’t touch it.
Posted on 6/16/20 at 8:56 pm to TheDrunkenTigah
quote:
If it hasn’t given you trouble I wouldn’t touch it.
That’s along my line of thinking here too. I just wanted to be sure I wasn’t missing out on some secret trick.
Posted on 6/16/20 at 10:13 pm to spudz
Take all your head bolts off one by one, retorque and add antiseize. Do the smaller water jacket cover bolts as well. If the motor is REALLY old though, maybe want to skip this part if the first one or two is extremely difficult to turn. Do it after the engine warms up so that the metal expands around the bolt slightly helping you pull it out.
Check anodes. Remove prop and check prop seal. Remove possible fishing line from behind prop. Check lower unit oil for water and change if you haven't done so in a while. Put a light coating of spray silicone on the block and wiring to seal out moisture.
Check anodes. Remove prop and check prop seal. Remove possible fishing line from behind prop. Check lower unit oil for water and change if you haven't done so in a while. Put a light coating of spray silicone on the block and wiring to seal out moisture.
Posted on 6/16/20 at 10:58 pm to spudz
quote:
Also, what’s the best way to clean the carbs without actually taking them apart? Is
Fresh gas and run the ever living piss out of it
Posted on 6/16/20 at 11:25 pm to spudz
Take the fuel bowl drain screws blast carb cleaner in them
Posted on 6/17/20 at 7:45 am to spudz
You’re on the right track. If it has a fuel filter doesn’t hurt to change it. If the primer bulb is getting old I’d change that as well. Pull the prop check for line. If you want to clean it up under the cowling, engine degreaser. Do not get water in the carbs. Let it dry over night. Come back the next day and spray it all down with silicone spray. Keeps the corrosion down.
Posted on 6/17/20 at 8:34 am to spudz
To the ignorant downvoters...ever had an older motor that needed water jackets cleaned? That means you have to remove the head. It's bound to happen to you if you hold on to the motor long enough. If it's an older motor, you'll run the risk of breaking bolts. Why not catch it early as possible and put a light coat of Never seize on them before it gets to that point? It's a cheap preventive maintenance that can possibly save a motor down the line. Also, heads do need to be retorqued at some point.
ETA remove one bolt, apply never seize, then replace and retorque in the manufacturer recommended sequence. Repeat for the next bolt. Do not remove all bolts at one time. Do not go heavy on the anti seize so that the bolt is too slippery. You won't get an accurate torque reading and may over torque the bolt.
ETA remove one bolt, apply never seize, then replace and retorque in the manufacturer recommended sequence. Repeat for the next bolt. Do not remove all bolts at one time. Do not go heavy on the anti seize so that the bolt is too slippery. You won't get an accurate torque reading and may over torque the bolt.
This post was edited on 6/17/20 at 8:40 am
Posted on 6/17/20 at 8:38 am to spudz
If it’s been awhile may can go ahead and replace the fuel pump, pretty easy fix on most older outboards.
Posted on 6/17/20 at 8:49 am to GoAwayImBaitn
quote:
To the ignorant downvoters.
There was nothing wrong with your comment imo. TBH I’ve never retorqued a head, probably a good idea
This post was edited on 6/17/20 at 8:51 am
Posted on 6/17/20 at 8:53 am to spudz
By far the best maintenance for a 2 stroke is to run it out of fuel if it is going to sit for more than 8 hours or so.
Other than that sounds like you got it. Inspect fuel lines and maybe replace the fuel filter under the cowling if there is one. Grease and fittings, spray moving parts with some WD40 or similar product and that's about it. The damned things are as close to maintenance free as a mechanical device can get. I have a 9.9 Evinrude that I bought used in 1978...it is a 1970 model....and that thing is sitting on a stand in my shop right now and if it didn't fire up with 2 pulls it would be shocking...and I have NEVER done a thing to this motor other than the things you mentioned and the items I listed.
Other than that sounds like you got it. Inspect fuel lines and maybe replace the fuel filter under the cowling if there is one. Grease and fittings, spray moving parts with some WD40 or similar product and that's about it. The damned things are as close to maintenance free as a mechanical device can get. I have a 9.9 Evinrude that I bought used in 1978...it is a 1970 model....and that thing is sitting on a stand in my shop right now and if it didn't fire up with 2 pulls it would be shocking...and I have NEVER done a thing to this motor other than the things you mentioned and the items I listed.
Posted on 6/17/20 at 8:59 am to spudz
quote:
Also, what’s the best way to clean the carbs without actually taking them apart? Is that possible? I’m assuming SeaFoam. Right now the motor runs good, and I don’t suspect the carbs are gummed up. This is more of a preventative thing to do while I’m tinkering.
I missed this part....that's what I do...sea foam...I use it almost in every tank of gas. If the engine is running good sea foam will keep it that way...as long as there isn't any fuel left in the carb, lines and bowl for more than about 8 hours. If you are camping or something and using the boat multiple days in a row running the fuel out isn't necessary but if it is going to be 2 days I do it....I usually do it even if I know Im using it the next day out of habit.....I haven't had to clean a carburetor on a small engine in 20 years except for the one on our RVs generator which is fueled from the chasis tank and did not have a fuel shut off valve until I put one in in a few years ago.
Posted on 6/17/20 at 9:00 am to windshieldman
quote:
If it’s been awhile may can go ahead and replace the fuel pump, pretty easy fix on most older outboards.
The motor is a 2004 Yamaha 40. I am the 3rd owner as far as I can tell but I have no clue on how many hours but when it’s running, it runs like a scalded dog. Knock on wood, it has good compression and starts on the first try most of the time, even in the cold.
That’s a good idea on the fuel pump. It’s $48 on boats.net so I may go ahead and get one sent my way. Funny thing is I was just looking at the pump yesterday evening.
I replaced the primer bulb and fuel line last year.
Posted on 6/17/20 at 9:00 am to GoAwayImBaitn
quote:
Remove possible fishing line from behind prop.
Crucial with braided line...that stuff eats prop hubs
Posted on 6/17/20 at 9:01 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Fresh gas and run the ever living piss out of it
99.9% of the time that's all a 2 stroke needs...damned things are incredible.
Posted on 6/17/20 at 9:06 am to GoAwayImBaitn
quote:
To the ignorant downvoters...ever had an older motor that needed water jackets cleaned? That means you have to remove the head. It's bound to happen to you if you hold on to the motor long enough. If it's an older motor, you'll run the risk of breaking bolts. Why not catch it early as possible and put a light coat of Never seize on them before it gets to that point? It's a cheap preventive maintenance that can possibly save a motor down the line. Also, heads do need to be retorqued at some point. ETA remove one bolt, apply never seize, then replace and retorque in the manufacturer recommended sequence. Repeat for the next bolt. Do not remove all bolts at one time. Do not go heavy on the anti seize so that the bolt is too slippery. You won't get an accurate torque reading and may over torque the bolt.
Not a bad idea...I have never done it to one but it makes sense...and the water jackets will get fouled up on them....especially on larger sized (25 HP +)....smaller engines will run cooler even with restricted water flow. I would guarantee you that if you had to clean them and did break a bolt off you will wish you had done this...if they come out easy it wouldn't take more than a few hours but if you break a bolt off??? GOOD LUCK....
Posted on 6/17/20 at 9:24 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Fresh gas and run the ever living piss out of it
Posted on 6/17/20 at 9:27 am to GoAwayImBaitn
quote:
Why not catch it early as possible and put a light coat of Never seize on them before it gets to that point?
quote:
If it's an older motor, you'll run the risk of breaking bolts.
I didn’t downvote you but you answered your own question. Removing the head is not regular maintenance by any stretch of the phrase, and on an aluminum block is a great way to turn a Sunday afternoon tuneup into a Monday morning trip to the machine shop. Two stroke motors are almost by definition older at this point. If you’re the first owner and routinely removed the head bolts then it’s fine, but your comment is akin to getting a transmission flush at 150K miles, probably gonna do more harm than good at this point.
Posted on 6/17/20 at 10:01 am to GoAwayImBaitn
quote:
If it's an older motor, you'll run the risk of breaking bolts
One of my podnuhs runs an older motor that has 3 sheared bolts on the water jacket. He was changing the thermostat and they sheared off. He tried using an extractor and broke that off too. luckily it doesn't leak much. The antiseize is a good idea.
Posted on 6/17/20 at 4:47 pm to Loup
quote:
One of my podnuhs runs an older motor that has 3 sheared bolts on the water jacket. He was changing the thermostat and they sheared off. He tried using an extractor and broke that off too. luckily it doesn't leak much. The antiseize is a good idea.
I had a Mercruiser 130 once (don't ask....took the boat in lieu of payment for work performed which was never going to be paid for in any other manner) and I managed to somehow allow that engine to overheat and crack the cylinder wall in two cylinders. The motor would idle like mad and would run WOT until it started heating up....I fixed that puppy with....wait for it....JB WELD! I worked the cracks down with some emery cloth, appied to the JB Weld with my finger, waited for it to dry and worked it down again with emery cloth....that motor ran for at least 10 years after that and never heated up again. For all I know it may still be running....I sold it to a neighbor a year after fixing it and he had it at least 9 years later when I lost contact with him.
I also fixed a broken starter mounting tab on a 40 HP Mercury once and I know it is still working....that's been about 20 years now. JB Weld is amazing stuff used in some situations.
Page 1 of 2
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News