re: Thoughts on the Grand Seiko

GS watches are known for their value proposition as well as their pure quality. Their dial, dial furniture, and case finishing are among the best you will find, certainly for the money.

I didn't look it up but the watch you posted looks like a SBGA229. Be aware the GS sports models tend to be rather chunky which isn't an issue with me but it is for some people. Even a lot of their dressier options tend to be thick but generally not as thick as Omega for example.

The Spring Drive (SD from here on) is an interesting movement, some love it and some loathe it. I personally think it draws on the worst parts of mechanical and quartz movements. It has a short power reserve which is one of the worst traits of a mechanical watch and it has lots of parts that are unserviceable by even a master watchmaker which in my mind is the worst trait of a quartz movement. It is more accurate than a mechanical movement but no more accurate than an average $20 quartz watch but nowhere near as accurate as a HAQ (high accuracy quartz) movement. They need to return to Japan for service which is bothersome to some people. This may change with GS's big push into the US market recently.

I personally prefer the GS 9F HAQ movements and their new(er) 9SA5 mechanical movements.

The 9F range may be the best daily wear HAQ movements ever made if not the ones with the very best accuracy. The hermetically sealed movement section that should only require service once per 50 years is a marvel. It prevents anything from getting into the movement when the battery is changed.

The 9SA5 is a fantastic mechanical movement. It is a Hi-Beat 36,000 vph movement with 80 hours of power reserve. It has a dual impulse escapement with parts made with MEMS which reduces weight. It also has a free-spring balance and the going train is very slim which helps make the watches they are in thinner.

In my mind the best GS watches are their daily wear/dress watches. They do a wide variety (many limited edition) of gorgeous dials with varied colors and textures. For many the choice to buy a GS is easy, the difficulty is in picking the right one for them. Personally if I wanted a dive watch I would pick one of the Seiko dive watches vs a GS dive watch especially since they have brought back homages to many of their historic dive watches.

One of my favorite GS watches is the SBGH267 and its gorgeous tessellated dial. Note this one doesn't have the newest Hi-Beat movement but the 9S85 is still a great movement. It is done in Zaratsu polishes titanium 39.5mm x 13mm case.

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When you zoom in on that first watch, you truly get an idea of the level of craftsmanship that went into it.

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All three images are of the same watch.

I have some oceanfront property for sale in Nevada.

Interested?

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All three images are of the same watch.

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It's the background on my phone. I know.

First picture. Happy now?

that black bay is beautiful

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I've never understood the appeal of dropping tons of money on a wristwatch. Don't get me wrong, to each his own. Just always seemed kinda weird to me. I guess it's a status thing? Like what makes a watch cost thousands of dollars? Do they tell time better than other watches (and I mean that seriously, like the mechanisms and shite like that). Maybe the fact that I don't understand watches is the culprit here? It just fascinates me how much money people spend on watches.

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Just use your iPhone for a watch baw.

Self-winding automatics are cool pieces of machinery.

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Didn't want to start a new thread for it, but how do you guys who have the Tudor Black Bay like it? I think it might be my next purchase.

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I have two of the original ETA Black Bays (red and black). I don't think there is a watch at or below the price point I like more.

The two "complaints" for both the ETA and MT movement watches are:

1. they are rather slab sided some people don't like that
2. the bracelet does not have a half link and in conjunction with the small number of micro-adjustment holes in the clasp it leaves some people in either a too tight or too loose area, I am one but just barely, I wear mine just a tiny bit too loose vs what would be very tight on me. Some people have had another micro-adjust hole drilled and jury-rigged a half-link from the fixed sorta half-link on the other side of the bracelet which is problematic in that the pin isn't fully supported

While the in-house movement is "better" and the 80hr power reserve is useful for some I prefer the modified ETA based watches

1. they were made in far fewer numbers
2. I prefer the bracelet without faux rivets
3. whicle the mid-case is the same the caseback is deeper to allow for the MT movement and thus the watch is 1mm thicker overall
4. I prefer the rose to the shield on the dial as well as the curved (smiley face) text
5. outside of the modified parts the rest are much easier to get for an independent watchmaker

All that said if I wanted it new I wouldn't have an issue buying a current 41mm BB.

I prefer the black and red to the blue because I prefer the gilt dial.

There are a ton of variations (I think there are over 60 SKUs) but I am talking specifically about the "original" 41mm versions. Some prefer the 39mm but I think 41mm is the Goldilocks size. The bronze versions are 43mm due to the softness of the metal and the need for more material in a couple of areas. I must admit the special edition Bucherer blue bronze version has had me thinking about chasing one down more than once. I most likely would have gotten a Harrods edition which is a green kinda like a Rolex Kermit but you HAVE to pick them up in person in London and you never know when you will come up on the list so you have to be very flexible to travel to the UK. I had a friend have his come in just after COVID restrictions started and it was a mess for him to get the watch.

The only ones I would caution against are the GMTs which AFAIK still are having date change issues.

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Didn't want to start a new thread for it, but how do you guys who have the Tudor Black Bay like it? I think it might be my next purchase.

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I have a Black Bay 36 that I wear daily. I love the versatility of it. It's feels at home while I'm in the pool or in a business meeting.

I'm not a fan of the faux rivets and faux patina on the larger Black bay, but it's not a bad looking watch, just not for me. The 58 has better proportions than the original, IMO, but I lean toward smaller watches (hence the BB36 that I own).

Haven't checked the BB36 yet. I like the bezel on the 39mm and 41mm, but I'm keeping an open mind. Next time I visit my AD buddy I'll take a look at them.

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I've never understood the appeal of dropping tons of money on a wristwatch. Don't get me wrong, to each his own. Just always seemed kinda weird to me. I guess it's a status thing?

Like what makes a watch cost thousands of dollars? Do they tell time better than other watches (and I mean that seriously, like the mechanisms and shite like that). Maybe the fact that I don't understand watches is the culprit here? It just fascinates me how much money people spend on watches.

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As far as status goes outside of Rolex, Omega and maybe Cartier the VAST majority of people won't even recognize a particular watch. They aren't like a Mercedes, Porsche or Ferrari. Once in a great, while someone will approach may and quietly ask "Is that a ______?". This usually starts a nice conversation.

The best mechanical watches don't keep time as well as a $15 quartz watch. But accuracy is indeed important to some people even if a quartz watch is better because it is an indication of how well the movement was designed, made, and regulated. It is a hobby for some, some just like nice and well-made things, some people want to flex and very very few are actually able to use them as an investment.

This is a picture (not mine for some reason IMGUR has dump a lot of my pictures) of a movement in one of my watches. It is fascinating to me how they work and the quality and care that go into the making of a movement. Over the years I have learned to be an amateur watchmaker. In the end, I simply enjoy them.