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Best used auto loans. Advice needed.

Posted on 3/5/20 at 5:10 am
Posted by bulldog95
North Louisiana
Member since Jan 2011
20681 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 5:10 am
Banks, credit unions, car dealerships. Through experience where would y’all recommend trying to get pre qualified and get the lowest APR %.

I will have a decent down payment but new even with rebates and incentives are about $10,000 more than a 1 to 1 1/2 year old vehicle with around 25,000 miles
Posted by tduecen
Member since Nov 2006
161244 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 5:43 am to
Credit union but plenty of people go through the dealership because of whatever deal the dealership is running. Then they refinance with their own bank or credit union.

For those that don't worry about the additional 1k+ off that many dealerships offer if you finance through them most I met were already pre-approved from the bank.

Of course with True Car, KBB, etc it is much easier to find out how much a car will cost based on previous sales.
Posted by S1C EM
Athens, GA
Member since Nov 2007
11585 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 8:17 am to
quote:

I will have a decent down payment but new even with rebates and incentives are about $10,000 more than a 1 to 1 1/2 year old vehicle with around 25,000 miles


Local credit unions are probably your best bet. I will also offer that Lightstream (a division of Suntrust, now Truist) is also excellent. The nice thing about them is they will give you whatever amount you ask for provided you have the credit. No stipulations on age of vehicle or LTV %. Great if you're buying a classic car or have negative equity on a trade as most banks and credit unions won't be able to help you in either case.
Posted by The Spleen
Member since Dec 2010
38865 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 8:50 am to
quote:

Local credit unions are probably your best bet.


Similar question. I usually go to my credit union to get pre-approved, but several local dealerships use this credit union when people apply for financing at the dealership. Would someone get the same rates at the dealership as they would directly from the credit union? I know getting pre-approved avoids dealing with the awful finance office at dealerships and saves some time, but was just curious.
Posted by Grits N Shrimp
Kansas City, MO
Member since Dec 2014
646 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 9:04 am to
Lightstream
Posted by S1C EM
Athens, GA
Member since Nov 2007
11585 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 10:07 am to
quote:

Would someone get the same rates at the dealership as they would directly from the credit union?


Not necessarily (unlikely, in fact). Dealers get a rate range from their banks and will do their best to stick you on the highest end of it, if they can. They can literally sit there and drop your rate down if you show objections to the payment or the rate itself. In the end, they're going to charge more so that they are getting something from it.

Your best bet is to get your financing squared away and walk in with a check ready to buy. Keep them out of the financing and just work them on the price of the car. Otherwise, you're negotiating both and likely getting a worse deal on both.
Posted by bulldog95
North Louisiana
Member since Jan 2011
20681 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 10:15 am to
Would it benefit me to have a co borrower if their credit is 740+. My credit is in the 650-660 range but I have a bankruptcy (damn divorce) that was discharged 2 Years ago.

Or should I get that person to get the loan and I can be the co borrower to start helping my credit


I guess my next question is since it’s a used truck would you get a better negotiated deal paying cash or financing through the car company and then paying off the vehicle with a loan the first or second payment (assuming no early payoff penalty).
This post was edited on 3/5/20 at 10:41 am
Posted by The Spleen
Member since Dec 2010
38865 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 10:43 am to
quote:

Not necessarily (unlikely, in fact). Dealers get a rate range from their banks and will do their best to stick you on the highest end of it, if they can. They can literally sit there and drop your rate down if you show objections to the payment or the rate itself. In the end, they're going to charge more so that they are getting something from it.



That's what I was thinking.
Posted by RebelExpress38
In your base, killin your dudes
Member since Apr 2012
13473 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 11:06 am to
Get the lowest number Lightstream will offer you, then walk into dealership and tell them to beat it if they want the loan. They will beat it.
Posted by S1C EM
Athens, GA
Member since Nov 2007
11585 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 11:29 am to
quote:

Would it benefit me to have a co borrower if their credit is 740+. My credit is in the 650-660 range but I have a bankruptcy (damn divorce) that was discharged 2 Years ago.

Or should I get that person to get the loan and I can be the co borrower to start helping my credit


You’ll probably need the co-borrower and most likely, that person will be made primary on the loan. You still want to be on it because it will help you in the long run.
Posted by S1C EM
Athens, GA
Member since Nov 2007
11585 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 11:34 am to
quote:

I guess my next question is since it’s a used truck would you get a better negotiated deal paying cash or financing through the car company and then paying off the vehicle with a loan the first or second payment (assuming no early payoff penalty).


That really depends. If you’re financing with the dealer, it just gives you more that you have to negotiate and more opportunity for them to squeeze you.

If it were me, I’d go with Lightstream (your credit may be tough for them, though), get their check and walk in ready to negotiate the vehicle price. Don’t tell them up front you already have financing taken care of. Once you have your price, THEN tell them what you have from Lightstream and let them try to beat it. Talk to the finance manager and tell him to shoot straight with you. If there’s no chance they can beat what Lightstream gives you, don’t let them pull your credit. They do it enough that they can give a pretty good ballpark of what’s possible with their lenders.
Posted by The Spleen
Member since Dec 2010
38865 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 12:34 pm to
quote:

You’ll probably need the co-borrower and most likely, that person will be made primary on the loan. You still want to be on it because it will help you in the long run.



I was told once that the interest rate is based on the lower score if there's a co-signor on the loan. Not sure how true that is.
Posted by S1C EM
Athens, GA
Member since Nov 2007
11585 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 12:42 pm to
quote:

I was told once that the interest rate is based on the lower score if there's a co-signor on the loan. Not sure how true that is.



Not really sure. I've had car loans where my wife was listed first specifically because her score was higher than mine (you're welcome, dear ), so I assume it to be the opposite.
Posted by Gorilla Ball
Member since Feb 2006
11635 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 3:46 pm to
I applied online (suntrust) they expressed mailed me a certified check. So basically I held the title - it was a unsecured loan.
The rate was untouchable as far as banks and s/l
Posted by bulldog95
North Louisiana
Member since Jan 2011
20681 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 4:14 pm to
My friend who works at a dealership said that it really doesn’t affect the APR if the co signer has a lower score than the primary
Posted by Gorilla Ball
Member since Feb 2006
11635 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 7:01 pm to
What? I’m the only person on the loan. What’s a co-signer?
Posted by Hamma1122
Member since Sep 2016
19779 posts
Posted on 3/5/20 at 7:40 pm to
Buy new
Posted by bulldog95
North Louisiana
Member since Jan 2011
20681 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 12:16 am to
Can’t afford new even with the dealer offering $14000 offf new is still around $10,000 more than the same vehicle that is 1 years old with 25,000 miles.

Posted by EarlyCuyler3
Appalachia
Member since Nov 2017
27290 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 2:50 am to
quote:

Get the lowest number Lightstream will offer you, then walk into dealership and tell them to beat it if they want the loan. They will beat it.




This is what I did. Ended up with Capital One. I'd also highly recommend buying used as opposed to new. As soon as you roll off the lot you lose so much money.
Posted by bulldog95
North Louisiana
Member since Jan 2011
20681 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 3:25 am to
Guess this is a dumb question but if I’m putting down $10,000 and only need another $18,000 to cover cost of car+ TTL. Would I only need to get preapproved for $18,000 and then tell the dealership to beat my preappived loan % if they want me to finance through them or will the dealership try to get someone to finance the whole amount then apply the down payment afterwards
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