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At what point do I swap to liability only for my cars?
Posted on 11/8/18 at 2:29 pm
Posted on 11/8/18 at 2:29 pm
Both of my cars are paid off, but starting to have high mileage. I would assume at some point it isn't worth carrying a ton of insurance on them due to lower value. Any rule of thumb you guys have?
Posted on 11/8/18 at 2:35 pm to AUCE05
If you live in Louisiana then never, full coverage including UM
Posted on 11/8/18 at 3:48 pm to AUCE05
quote:
Any rule of thumb you guys have
when you are comfortable not using the equity you have in your current vehicle to help with purchasing your next vehicle
Posted on 11/8/18 at 4:08 pm to AUCE05
quote:
worth carrying a ton of insurance on them
what "ton of insurance" do you think you are carrying on them? They are insured on an actual cash value basis and rated accordingly.
Posted on 11/8/18 at 10:55 pm to cgrand
quote:
If you live in Louisiana then never, full coverage including UM
Hey silly.... he's asking about dropping physical damage coverage not liability or UM
I swear
OP, it's a personal financial decision but when the Actual Cash Value gets to about 4-8 times the deductible the coverage should probably be dropped.
Example:
$500 deductible X8 = $4,000.
Should you really pay money for the unlikely chance a tree falls on your car?
If someone hits you, they pay. So Comp/collision can be dropped
This post was edited on 11/9/18 at 6:30 am
Posted on 11/9/18 at 6:32 am to Mr.Perfect
Drop it when you don't have a problem writing the check to replace it.
Posted on 11/9/18 at 6:58 am to AUCE05
When you don't think it's worth it anymore.
Example:
You are paying $500 for insurance. if deemed a total loss you get the worth of your car. Let's say it's $2000 and you have to pay a deductible of $500 to get it. You will pocket $1500 if it's a total loss.
You pay only liability at $300. Save $200 every 6 months while the car depreciates. If it's a total loss now you get nothing.
So it's a small gamble on what you choose.
Example:
You are paying $500 for insurance. if deemed a total loss you get the worth of your car. Let's say it's $2000 and you have to pay a deductible of $500 to get it. You will pocket $1500 if it's a total loss.
You pay only liability at $300. Save $200 every 6 months while the car depreciates. If it's a total loss now you get nothing.
So it's a small gamble on what you choose.
This post was edited on 11/9/18 at 6:59 am
Posted on 11/9/18 at 8:28 am to AUCE05
I was wondering the same thing, I'm now driving my wife's old car, a '06 with 189K miles on it. I walk to work, so 'driving it' means less than 10 miles a week.
I went to my State Farm agent, explained the situation and my bill was nearly cut is half, $348.
I went to my State Farm agent, explained the situation and my bill was nearly cut is half, $348.
Posted on 11/9/18 at 8:44 am to AUCE05
I mean, to me, it depends on what our car is worth and if it gets destroyed, can you cover it...
My wife's van is paid off, but its still worth like $25K. I don't feel comfortable carrying just liability plus all the hail in Texas added with the way women drive.... Not thanks!
My wife's van is paid off, but its still worth like $25K. I don't feel comfortable carrying just liability plus all the hail in Texas added with the way women drive.... Not thanks!
This post was edited on 11/9/18 at 8:46 am
Posted on 11/9/18 at 9:19 am to Mr.Perfect
quote:
If someone hits you, they pay
Not if they don’t have money or insurance to cover the loss they don’t.
Posted on 11/9/18 at 10:08 am to Mr.Perfect
quote:
Should you really pay money for the unlikely chance a tree falls on your car?
physical damage when parked.
hail damage.
flood damage.
comprehensive is cheap, would never not pay comprehensive.
Posted on 11/9/18 at 11:36 am to AUCE05
To give you some concrete examples:
I have a 2005 Honda Pilot with 189,000 miles on it. Driven less than 5000 miles a year. I have not carried physical damage insurance on it for 3 or 4 years.
I have a 2012 Honda CRV with 118,000 on it. I still have physical damage coverage on it, but I will likely drop it in 2-3 years when it gets to 150,000.
I have a 2005 Honda Pilot with 189,000 miles on it. Driven less than 5000 miles a year. I have not carried physical damage insurance on it for 3 or 4 years.
I have a 2012 Honda CRV with 118,000 on it. I still have physical damage coverage on it, but I will likely drop it in 2-3 years when it gets to 150,000.
Posted on 11/9/18 at 12:15 pm to Chad504boy
quote:
physical damage when parked. hail damage. flood damage. comprehensive is cheap, would never not pay comprehensive.
Says the insurance salesman
Posted on 11/9/18 at 12:17 pm to baldona
Windshield replacements alone every few years sometimes pays for the comprehensive coverage alone.
This post was edited on 11/9/18 at 12:23 pm
Posted on 11/9/18 at 8:52 pm to AUCE05
When you can walk out and see your car has been stolen, crushed by a dump truck, or burned to the ground and can say, whatever. I’ll just go buy another one.
If you would be in hardship and have to borrow money in those situations, think about it.
If you would be in hardship and have to borrow money in those situations, think about it.
Posted on 11/10/18 at 12:24 am to Twenty 49
Exactly. I have 189k on my Titan and I only have liability. Same with pilot which has 205k. Only vehicle I have with full coverage is my Armada because I still have a note on it.
Posted on 11/10/18 at 1:30 pm to Mr.Perfect
quote:
If someone hits you, they pay. So Comp/collision can be dropped
If we are discussing LA, someone hits you its highly likely they have no insurance, and are not going to pay.
Posted on 11/10/18 at 9:06 pm to EA6B
percentage of uninsured motorists
Mississippi – 28 percent
New Mexico – 26 percent
Tennessee, Oklahoma, and Florida – 24 percent
Alabama – 22 percent
Michigan – 19 percent
Kentucky and Rhode Island – 18 percent
Indiana, Washington, Arkansas, Ohio, and Georgia – 16 percent
Washington D.C., Colorado, California, Maryland, Texas, and Wisconsin – 15 percent
Missouri and North Carolina – 14 percent
Nevada, Minnesota, Alaska, and Louisiana – 13 percent
Arizona – 12 percent
Iowa, Montana, Hawaii, New Jersey, New Hampshire, West Virginia, Virginia, Delaware, and South Carolina – 11 percent
Wyoming, Oregon, Kansas, and Connecticut – 10 percent
North Dakota and South Dakota – 9 percent
Utah, Idaho, and Nebraska – 8 percent
Vermont and Pennsylvania – 7 percent
New York – 5 percent
Maine and Massachusetts – 4 percent
LINK
Mississippi – 28 percent
New Mexico – 26 percent
Tennessee, Oklahoma, and Florida – 24 percent
Alabama – 22 percent
Michigan – 19 percent
Kentucky and Rhode Island – 18 percent
Indiana, Washington, Arkansas, Ohio, and Georgia – 16 percent
Washington D.C., Colorado, California, Maryland, Texas, and Wisconsin – 15 percent
Missouri and North Carolina – 14 percent
Nevada, Minnesota, Alaska, and Louisiana – 13 percent
Arizona – 12 percent
Iowa, Montana, Hawaii, New Jersey, New Hampshire, West Virginia, Virginia, Delaware, and South Carolina – 11 percent
Wyoming, Oregon, Kansas, and Connecticut – 10 percent
North Dakota and South Dakota – 9 percent
Utah, Idaho, and Nebraska – 8 percent
Vermont and Pennsylvania – 7 percent
New York – 5 percent
Maine and Massachusetts – 4 percent
LINK
This post was edited on 11/10/18 at 9:07 pm
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